And why is it bad to put a load on your car?

 

it's not...but you don't need to put a heavy load on the car (going above 5000rpms) during break-in

 

First off, this is a very controversial topic, and probably will always be. There are many different opinions. Personally I have seen many, many drag racing engines broken in the hard way with excellent compression results. When an engine is first built, there is what is called a "cross-hatch" on the cylinder walls. If you have ever built your own engine before, and felt the cylinder walls after honing, you will know that this cross-hatch has a definite "texture" to it. You call feel the abrasiveness of the cylinder walls, sort of feels like a fine grit sandpaper. When you first start up a freshly built engine, the cross-hatch begins to grind and shape the piston rings. Because of this, many believe that high rpms are best, so it takes advantage of the crosshatch and quickly seats the rings to a perfect fit. Others who baby the engine upon startup, sometimes experience poor compression results because the crosshatch slowly wears away and is unable to grind away enough material from the rings to seat properly. There are others who have babied engines from startup and also have had great results as well, so it is not certain which is the best way.

 

This is a frequently discussed topic with bikes. Some say drive it like you stole it. Some say don't go over a certain RPM. Its hard to diagnose and monitor these kinds of results I guess.

 

Hey smart guy.....I'm sure if you had a shop that could replace any part of your car with very minimal cost or effort, then sure go ahead and do whatever you want. But the fact is that 99.99% of the people here don't have access to a performance shop, much less a lift,engine hoist, or the knowledge to rebuild anything. You cannot compare race teams/shops to the average Joe who is using normal tools/equipment. Race teams often rebuild transmissions every race and rebuild motors every race, does that mean that you can do the same thing???NO

 

You are retarted. You do realize that the ECU can remember what rpm it hit right??? So if you blew the motor then they'd pull the ECU see that you redlined it, then they'd void your warranty and you'd be 5K in the hole. That's pretty ****ty advice man......some of the worst I have seen on this whole forum.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/BreakInF3Pistons.jpg

Pick one it's up to you. But Ferrari is different because it's hand made.

 

 

I think break in depends on where the engine came from... It is unlikely that your cylinder hatching (hone) will be perfect from the factory. It isn't necessary to be perfect with the conditions that most people who drive autos will see. When AMS and Buschur build their engines it is likely that they use a machine shop that will give them a good cross hatch, will do a good job on the balance, and will gap the rings correctly for the type of conditions the engine will see. On my racecar I had a guy that does work on Nascar engines and has done multiple pro-mod engines do all of my block work. The hone was perfect and my break in consisted of roughly 5 miles of check time (various light loads) and after that considerable ragging. The rings have seated perfectly and the motor has lasted 3 years with HEAVY nitrous use.

 

These people have no idea what they're doing don't copy the break in they do? Drive real slow for at least 6K.


Ultimate Factories: Ferrari NGC 186 11/20/2006 11:00 AM
Ultimate Factories: Farrari NGCHD 9429 11/20/2006 11:00 AM
Ultimate Factories: Ferrari NGC 186 11/26/2006 10:00 AM
Ultimate Factories: Farrari NGCHD 9429 11/26/2006 10:00 AM




What ever you do don't even look at this page.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

then dont listen to me...i dont have a car with an existing warranty anyways so f**** you
you little ***** **** bittch.

 

When you wrote 'p***y a** b***h', what exactly is a p***y a**?




edit: I forgot some of these...

 

Taint!

 

No taint intended.