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RMR intake iinstalled on EVO

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Old May 17, 2003 | 05:12 PM
  #16  
StreetPowerEvo's Avatar
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Rollo, thx for the pics. I assume thats the RMR kit?
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Old May 17, 2003 | 09:22 PM
  #17  
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Hey guys, i bought the RMR filter bracket kit yesterday, and i put it on today. I disconnected the battery and everything even though you really don't need to. However, now the car is up and running, and it's slower, it lags, and there is a major difference in performance, but not gains, actually loss. It doesn't pull hard at all. Very disapointing, i don't know why. Everything checks out, and nothing is leaking, or loose. anyone have any suggestions or ideas? i'll post this as an actual post too, not just reply
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Old May 17, 2003 | 10:42 PM
  #18  
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RMR not the problem...works fine

The problem is 99.9% that you have kinked or switched the two vacuum hoses on the underside of the new filter bracket. Fix this and the intake performs very well. I know, the same thing happened to me! With the RMR 3" pipe and cat back it REALLY works well. No loss in upper end (5-7k) like before and real responsive. Pulls GREAT.
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Old May 18, 2003 | 02:35 AM
  #19  
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well, what i ended up doing is leaving the stock brackect in place, and putting the RMR one on top, using longer bolts that i have from an older mitsu install. the only part tht did not work was the part of the stock bracket to the right, that bends upward. Instead of removig the bracket, i just bent that piece to allow proper filter clearance. I did this only because i wanted the intercoller pipe to stay bolted to something, so that it doesn't move around. Everything clears, and i got to re-use stock mounting points for everthing. Nothing is kinked up, and i just can't figure it out. drving it around town, not getting on it, it just lags, with the stock box in, it would pull as if there were more torque, i just can't understand it. Stock, it felt like it spooled and woud pul strong from 3k rpms, now it's likeup in the 4k's before any real power is felt.
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Old May 18, 2003 | 02:42 AM
  #20  
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From: so cali
well, what i ended up doing is leaving the stock brackect in place, and putting the RMR one on top, using longer bolts that i have from an older mitsu install. the only part tht did not work was the part of the stock bracket to the right, that bends upward. Instead of removig the bracket, i just bent that piece to allow proper filter clearance. I did this only because i wanted the intercoller pipe to stay bolted to something, so that it doesn't move around. Everything clears, and i got to re-use stock mounting points for everthing. Nothing is kinked up, and i just can't figure it out. drving it around town, not getting on it, it just lags, with the stock box in, it would pull as if there were more torque, i just can't understand it. Stock, it felt like it spooled and woud pul strong from 3k rpms, now it's likeup in the 4k's before any real power is felt. throttle response is worse now too. I accidentally broke two of the plastic brackets inside the stock airbox, so now i'm going to go to the dealer to pick another one up, so i can just put the stock one in. RMR makes really nice kit, perfect fit, and everthing, it's just my car i guess.
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Old May 19, 2003 | 05:37 PM
  #21  
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i think that my evo is slower with the RMR kit too......
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Old May 19, 2003 | 05:49 PM
  #22  
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From: Delta House, NYC
if i were u guys id leave that evo bone stock and never touch it...maybe just rims and suspension but thats me though...... Why dont one of you put the intake on , run a dyno and then put it on and run again...see if theres a lose.
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Old May 19, 2003 | 05:53 PM
  #23  
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I insalled my RMR bracket and filter on the 16 of this mounth and I fill no los of power but a gain and it only took 30 min to insall
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Old May 19, 2003 | 08:30 PM
  #24  
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i bet the power gain is in your mind because of the aggresive sound but try taking off and see if u get pushed back into the seat like before....i guess i have to put the factory **** back on and get a K&N drop in
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 02:02 PM
  #25  
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From: Dallas, TX
I just installed the RMR intake kit as well and must say that the sound is awasome. However the car does not seem as quick and pulls less then before. I plan on giving it a couple of days for the ECU to adjust and see if that makes a difference.
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 04:24 PM
  #26  
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From: SoCal
Thread from the dead!

I think what happens is that if the ambient temperature is high (as it tends to be in SoCal, and weather.com says it's 88 in Dallas right now) the ECU detects that the air coming in is hotter than it expects (hotter than whatever the max threshold is set at, anyway), and limits the maximum available boost - it's more than just the air being less dense.

I don't have any hard data to back that up - I have an OBDII analyser now but I didn't a year ago, and I haven't bothered to check it yet.

Solutions? RMR sells a thing which splits your hood vent into a 2/3 vent and 1/3 intake, the intake part of which pushes ambient temp air straight onto the filter in a 'ram air' kind of way. I don't care for the look of it myself, so what I did was make a heatshield out of sheet aluminium which uses the original air intake duct to funnel air directly to the filter, and also isolates the filter somewhat from the heat of the engine. It wasn't especially hard, just kinda time consuming; I made a template out of cardboard then cut the aluminium to shape with tin snips and put door seal on the top. Surprisingly people don't immediately say 'dude, that is so ghetto' when they see it and it seems to work - I've noticed no power loss in the year I've had it on, and it gets pretty damn hot here. There's a picture in my car's profile. I've been toying with making a CF version of it recently - if I have time this summer I'll probably take a crack at that.

Your other option (in the same vein) was originally suggested by MalibuJack:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=40447
I think that's a pretty awesome way of doing it, but I'm not sure if the RMR setup would fit. If I hadn't already made the heatshield I'd probably try that.

If you suspect the ECU hasn't adjusted, you might try disconnecting the battery for an hour or so, then reconnecting it so the ECU can recalibrate from the ground up. If you still get the problem, try driving it late at night (or early in the morning, like 5am) when the air is cool to see if the power comes back.

Hope that helped.
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 05:17 PM
  #27  
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From: Ga
Don't a cone filter mess with you MAF sensor? Thought you needed a flash for it to work properly? Correct me if i'm wrong.


Ta
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Old Jun 11, 2004 | 07:02 AM
  #28  
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From: High-Plains Desert
I installed the K&N cone filter pictured here and fabricated my own mount bracket from mild steel sheeting. Works like a champ. I too thought I had some power loss but I posted duplicate times at the 1/4 mile as I did before the install. So I think my butt-dyno is off! LOL.
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Old Jun 11, 2004 | 07:11 AM
  #29  
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Very happy with my RmR kit
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Old Jun 11, 2004 | 11:40 AM
  #30  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Ev0 1
Don't a cone filter mess with you MAF sensor? Thought you needed a flash for it to work properly? Correct me if i'm wrong.


Ta
The RMR kit (and all the other good ones) incorporate all that junk - all the sensors stay intact. As I understand it, in a Karman Vortex system, as long as the 'honeycomb' remains in place (and intact) to 'straighten' the airflow as it comes in, the MAF sensor works fine. Like I said, mine has run great for well over a year now. If the OBDII analyser says different when I get around to testing it, I'll post to this thread.

Anyway, I did try flashing it this morning, but I couldn't tell a difference - and my neighbours called the cops (rimshot)
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