Get a oil temp gauge and go by that. Its ok to drive the car after a minute or two but you shouldn't get on boost before the oil temp is up to an optimal range.

Ticking is the injectors. It should also do it at times after you shut off the engine.

 

My car doesn't tick warm or cold. Maybe I should take it back to the dealer to see if the ticker has gone bad.

 

you dont need to let it fully warm up, if you are running Mobile 1 that oil will provide enough lubrication for the motor to not cause any problems

if you dont let it warm up just dont pull outa the driveway and start boosting, give it a min or so of easy driving

 

What Mitsubishi says.

 

yup. that's what the owners manual says. i might be wrong but i remember reading you should wait for the gauge to move or the car will bog because of the hollow cam shafts. i could be wrong my memory sometimes plays tricks on me. thanks.

 

i live in jersey and in the winter when i drive the car it takes a while to warm up...like atleast 10 min for it to come off cold a little..i wait like 20 min..then drive

 

Our winters arent as cold down here in FL so warm up doesnt take too long. I use this time to defrost/wipe down the windows. Morning dew sucks.

 

after starting mine up in the garage and leave the driveway, I get a hesitation in when getting up to 25 mph. After a few minutes it drives fine. My IX is all stock too...... Not to mention the crunch shifting very slowly into 2nd.......

 

again i think it has to do with the hollow cam shafts.

 

do you have a higher resolution .jpg of this that you can post or e-mail me?

 

this is not true ....on really cold days the oil temp hardly goes up on my guage....stays at like 55 c even after driving a lot....on very hot days it goes all the way up to 80 c or 90 c...and on warm days it's at 60 c or 70 c...the temp of the oil is not the issue here ....you should have said don't boost until the temp guage for your coolant is at normal (halfway) operating temp...maybe this is what you meant

 

I let my engine idle for at least 5 minutes, then go. The ticking is a combination of the injectors and hydraulic lifters (if you are really unlucky I guess it could be rod knock) =)

 

i'd be worried about that crunch more than anything. especially on a newer car.

 

mine warms up pretty quick, I start to drive once the collant temp is just past the c. Once its warm i will drive it a little harder, but still very light. I don't lay into it until the oil temp is at 70. I don't want no cool oil in the turbo, bad for the bearings. as far as the cool down goes, i have aGreddy Full auto timer for that, I have it set for 1 min minimum. Speaking of turbo timers, why don't they just make you run a boost line and tach to it? I never got that.

 

I feel dumber reading some of these posts...I made a post listing all the answers to these common questions according to the pamphlet that is posted by "ak47po"

The car is not so raced out that its gonna bog if you drive away cold because of hollow cams. Thats ridiculous

The warm up process is meant mainly for two things: Emissions and Lubrication. Youre good to drive when the Temp needle BEGINS to move. No AGGRESSIVE driving until its at normal operating temp.