i would do cams, have BR port/polish the exhaust mani and 02 housing, walbro and the whole ETS 3" kit w/pipes. that should still keep you under 3k installed.

 

I agree with fuel pump, test pipe, and retune, but instead of spending money on springs, retainers, and head studs that wont gain u anything buy direct bolt on fp green turbo and gain 50 whp. there seems to be alot of hype on needing head studs and springs etc, sorry to say a couple more pounds of boost is going to stretch the head bolts and companies such as hks make good cams that don't require upgraded springs and retainers. good example for head studs is fq400, it doesn't need head studs to make great power. just my opinion, if i spend 3k i want to feel it and show some people who is boss haha

 

HKS 280's $600
ARP headstuds $100
SMC Alky kit $500
BR SS o2 housing $200
ported exhaust manifold $200
BR 65mm TB & Ported intake manifold $375
BR Race FMIC $800
And a tune with the change

You will be up a solid 70whp and still be on the stock turbo

 

This does sound like a pretty solid set of goodies, however i have no knowledge or really the means to install most of it. 3k has to include isntall, and isntalling a meth kit cant be cheap, let alone the cams and studs. Specially done by a good shop thats not going to **** it up.

 

yes it does lol

 

Under 350 hp you will NOT need the head studs. You should be able to have cams installed for about 2 hours of labor =/-$200.

Alky is an accident waiting to happen. Run out under heavy load and you grenade.
$500 Pick your cams-272 or 280. That depends on how much lope you can stand.
$2000 for the FP Green and install kit
$300 for injectors
$200 for cam gears

Find friends to help install=free

 

I need headstuds and I know I am not over 350 hp......well maybe I am LOL...AH hell i dont know I havent dynoed it yet. All I know is I am boosting 24 psi and one day after a fun and crazy drive around the block I blew my head gasket. SO now due to my job and how busy i am I am elbow deep in the engine one day at a time fixing it lol FUUUUN!


SJ

 

to correctly install head studs requires replacing the head gasket anyways, so actually its the same cost to do it when the gasket is good or bad.

 

Ok, skip the TB and intake manifold and you'll have plenty of wiggle-room for installation. The FMIC, o2 housing, and manifold you should be able to do yourself, but if you don't feel comfortable, take it to a professional.

Also there's some misinformation cluttering up this thread that I'll respond to once and then any debate over them can be taken elsewhere (i.e. another thread you OT ******! )

-Headstuds are worth it if you're modding your car. especially if you're going to run 25+psi (i.e. with alky, see next point)
-alky is not an accident waiting to happen, TONS of people use it. There are safeguards like low-level lights and confirmed-flow rate lights or even flow meters that are included in any decent kit (SMC v2 or Aquamist HFS-5). Search for more reasons why alky injection is a great bang-for-your-buck mod!
-camgears are not needed for HKS cams, just install straight up and go make power!
-YES, getting friends to help do install is well worth it and FUN!


-No, you can use the 1x1 method. Been done 1000's of times, including my own evo for the last 13k miles & 25psi daily (with alky I might add!)

Loaked, my best advice for you is to just keep it simple. Do mods to your car that are proven to make power, in the right order, and you will be soooooo happy. That being said, I don't know everything and neither does anyone else. Make up your own mind, do your own research if you can't decide (or call buschur racing ).

 

i said to "correctly" install head studs. i would really like to see a service manual that says its ok to replaced head bolts 1x1. yes it might work but most likely u end up with an oil covered block due to oil seapage. i agree it will work but is not the CORRECT way.

 

i've been running 27psi on meth for about a month now and i still dont need headstuds

 

^stock studs and gasket?

 

Well the tomei cams are 270s, but the lift is 11.5. The HKS are 272s, but the lift is less, 10.7 I THINK. I figured the higher lift would in turn make more power? So with high of a lift is why i need cam gears? Or just get cam gears period with cams? At what point are the stock cam gears "no good" so to speak.

I would like to do meth and an FP green, but I just dont have means to do it myself, it would just go WAY over my budget.

I figured head studs cant hurt any, and they are going to be in there anway doing the cams. From whave Ive read about 50% people reccomend them.

 

Umm, I think you need to do a little more research. Cam gears aren't really needed unless you're buying cams that are not designed to be installed straight up. All HKS cams are designed to make the most power straight up 0/0 so no cam gears needed if you go that route. FYI several of the big power cars out there run the stock cam gears. Also, high-lift cams require high tension valve-springs because they lift the valve much higher than stock. Again, HKS cams can be installed w/o upgraded springs if you are keeping the stock rev limit.

Other than that, good luck!

 

OK. Here's my .02 about meth and I'll leave it alone. Meth allows you to run more boost by effectively raising the octane and reducing charge temps. Meth is good for short duration performance, ie. drag racing.

My advice is to have the car properly tuned for the fuel and boost that you intend to run. Forget the meth if you aren't drag, or God forbid, street racing.

On the head studs-It's a worthwhile upgrade no matter what power you make.

+1 on the valve springs on certain cams.
-1 on the cam gears. I've watched the dyno results change significantly (25+whp with a better torque curve) on my car as the cams were dialed from 0/0 to -2/-2