On a downshift you should blip the throttle to bring the rev up to where they need to be in the lower gear. For an up shift you do not need any throttle input.

 

It depends on how you shift (slow or fast). But you should match engine RPMs to the appropriate gear you want to change into.

A general rule is apply some gas on downshifts, ease off the gas on upshifts. If the car jerks on each shift then you're probably doing it wrong. Try to be smooth.

 

I use it every single time I stop. A lot of people who have rode with me comment that I am shifting all the time. It just feels unnatural to stop without downshifting and engine braking. If I am on the phone it is like, got to go, need to stop, haha.

I was going to mention about the saving fuel with engine braking too. The engine is not fueling when you are engine braking.

 

they'd catch you from your brake lights not turning on when you get close to a stop sign or traffic light.

 

you could be pulling the hand brake

 

When in need of Aggressive Braking...

Ie---Going 140mph and there is a stopped truck less than an 1/8th lf mile in front.

 

can anyone please post the RPM required for each gear?

 

its just a feel thing...


comes with experience... i've been rev matching since day one... i got 25 on my stockers beating the living **** out of my car....

 

Max speed at each gear in stock form for 5 spd IX:
1st - 60km/h (~40mph)
2nd - 90km/h (~60mph)
3rd - 125km/h (~ 80mph)
4th - 175km/h (~ 110mph)

So basically you want to downshift if your speed drop below the max speed on the lower gear.

Also peak torque comes in around 4-5k rpm so that is the least place you want to hard-shift on (you'll hear the loudest thunk if you releast clutch too early in that zone). You rather shift very low at like 3k rpm, or shift high at 7k+ rpm if you want to preserve your tranny.

 

I also rev match all the time. It's helps with braking too because all the load is not put on the front brakes. It distributes the power not only to the front but also the rear brakes and the engine, helps you stop much quicker. I've gotten so good at rev matching in my old talon tsi that then when I ran into an emergency situation where I had to slam on the brakes, i'd rev match within less than second and slam on the brakes at the same time. You'll stop much quicker that way.

 

Is the 5 spd VIII the same ratios? About a month ago I tested to see if I could drop it into third on the highway (I really missed that I could do this in my old car all the time) going 65 mph. When I did so I was at roughly 5800-6000 rpms.

 

Simple as this the only time you should touch the clutch is to shift or start from a stop and the only time the trans isn't in gear is when you shift or at a stop light. And yes rev match shifting up or down.

 

65mph is still well under 80mph the stock car is capable of at 3rd gear so its safe. Usually when you heel-toe down 6krpm to below gear is plenty good enough. You can really drive crazy and rev match right at fuel cut but can be dangerous if you mis-time it. The stock engine can handle up to 8k-8.3krpm but if you keep adventuring to over that, it will be matter of a time til you see a connecting rod sticking out of your shortblock.
EVO VIII 5spd is suppose to have slightly taller gear for most of the gears. Check your manual carefully to see which speed you want to stay under for every gear. Most guys who heel n toe does it by sound and feel but if this is the first car you are learning on just make sure the limits.
I agree with above poster, you should rev match during upshift as well. Jamming up a gear then dumping clutch is cool, you get a nice 'hook' feel along with thunk on your rear differential, might get you fraction seconds quicker in a straight line sprint but it'll eventually wear the drivetrain down. All you need to do is wait a tiny moment (well under a second) for it to lose enough momentum to match the rev of the next gear then let go. You get butter smooth transition and you don't have to deal with bucking commonly associated with badly executed dump shifts.
Don't forget, whole point of heel-toe is to keep the balance of the car, perfect rev match is important but smooth braking is just as important in the procedure.

 

In response to an earlier post in this thread. My two cents.

Heel and toeing is not engine braking, it's simply the act of simultaneously braking with your heel and revving the engine with your toe in an attempt to keep the engine at its optimal place in the powerband during a turn in a racing situation.

Phew. Mouthful.


I NEVER engine brake.
It's a lot cheaper to replace brakes than a clutch.

If you are heel toeing properly, the revs should be correctly matched with your speed and the gear you are selecting. The car has brakes for a reason. Use them.

 

50k miles stock clutch engine brake everyday every stop practically with mild engine braking. Already replaced my brakes and probably will again before this clutch dies.