I missed the electrical connector part, the answer is no.

For anyone still unclear about this.

All you really need to do is park in front of a wall or garage door like 10 to 25 feet away. (25 is better). If you want 2 clicks more then set you lights on O and mark the height of the top of the light where your beam cutoff is. Then click it down to 2 and adjust the gear as shown above. A small screw driver like pocket type will work it just is slow going. A T25 torx bit works but does slip so you need to keep presssure towards the gear, but it is much faster. I don't temember which way to turn the gear but I am pretty sure it's clockwise (tighten) when looking at the head of the bolt on the gear. If anyone is unclear about the Torx thing, when you look at the gear in question from the picture, you will notice a hole towards the headlight housing side. There is probably grease in it. If you put it in that hole there is a gear face that you can turn. It is the same attachment as the bolt on the outside but I think if you have to go loosen the bolt will come loose on you.

 

I am still kinda confused... pic would definitely help at this point

 

Here is a pic of the driver's side adjuster. The center of the image shows some exposed gear teeth in a slotted opening. That is where the Torx goes.

 

Closer view of passenger side, showing adjuster mechanism.

Two questions:
1. Does the adjuster have to somehow be disengaged? Timzcat, you did not mention it, so I infer that adjusting the inner gear does not affect the height adjuster setting. i.e. Physically turning gear with dial at say 2 creates a new setting for 2.

2. The smaller drive gears on mine look like they are starting to get chewed up. I think I have used the adjuster only twice, does everyone elses look like this?

 

i couldnt figure out how to adjust the hight of the low beams. Anyone know exactly what parts needs to be touched? I thought it was those green things but i guess i was wrong, cuz they dont seem to want to move. Also, they are connected to the high beams so i woulnt think they do anythingto the low beam, but then again when i moved them slightly they did move the low mean higher and lower. Also, if you notice, when you tell the low beam to go from lets say 0 to 4, you can look at those parts and notice nothing is moving while the motor is turning. I think its inside the box behind the low beam.

 

i've tried twice with no avail, i don't want to mess it up or anything, but i'm having the same problems

 

Yes, you are right. That is just the positional adjustment for height. The leveler is not attached there and it won't affect it.
There is no hi beam adjustment, just low and fog lights (fog lights are the othe one). Mine already looked chewed up like that and I think it was from the factory initial setting. I'd have to double check but like most headlight adjustments, you are physically moving the entire housing assemby when you turn the gear. Therefore it will not be easy to turn.

 

So if I read Timzcat correctly, if the above gear moves the entire housing, then that means all lights, inc. fog and high beam will be raised or lowered. With dial, low beam could be dialed back down, but fogs and high beam would remain elevated. Probably not a problem for high beam, but could create a problem with fogs aimed into oncoming motorists.

 

OK, I tried a T25, T27, and T30. All worked, but not well. There is not enough of a pitch difference to accomodate gear teeth using the Torx. I found a #2 Philips in a Craftsman clear handle with blue round tip works great. The shaft is almost a perfect diameter for the slot, and the four recesses are deep enough to allow good purchase on the gear faces. I was able to spin it and quickly adjust the lights. Just be sure when you have them adjusted to cycle the dial on the dash a couple of times and recheck.

 

in my STI I can change the angle of my lights from inside the car.. 4 diff positions.. happy racing

 

Read the whole thread, we have 5 tee hee positions adjustable from inside car, this is about adjusting the "zero" height.

 

O.K. guys,

I should have mentioned this weeks ago but I figured out an easier way to do the adjustment after just about trashing the adjuster housing with every size torqs bit I could find.

All the wheel does is turn the cable that is attached to it. there are two screws on the back (engine side) of each of those adjuster wheels that hold the cable and gear to the adjuster wheel. just unscrew them and turn the gear on the end of the cable. Trust me it would have taken a LONG time to do this with a torqs bit cause I could never get more than one or two teeth turns at a time. I ended up putting about ten full revolutions on the cable gear to get mine setup the way I wanted.

The driver side is worse than the passenger side and I have not done that one yet, but on the passenger side all you have to do is move the coolant overflow bottle out of the way to get to the two screws.

I'll post some picks and a how too once I get motivated and do the driver side. FWIW I don't plan to recconect the cable to the adjuster to save the PITA for fine tuning. There is also a small stud on the cable assembly where it runs into the back of the HID unit that could be used for the adjustment (you can see it turn as you turn the cable gear).

 

Me and my buddy adjusted the headlights in all of about 3 minutes.....easy as pie.

Used a ratchet, didn't have to take anything off and nothing got stripped.

Pointed the car at the garage, used masking tape (marked off the area).

 

with a phillips or a torx?? and what size?

 

I used a size 10 ratchet driver (fits perfect) to adjust the headlights....then just stuck a phillips head into the gear (that's what it looks like) to hold everything in place and just tightened it down.