Thanx! Checked it out. Dryer hose and some brackets and clamps for $349.
I might just do it, considering I'm lazy.

 

I haven't seen that footage. What happens? Do you have a link?

 

I watched the footage at Apex (SPG) Motorsports here in Minneapolis (retailer of safety gear). This was back when I was considering using the 4-point "club" belts. At that time I wasn't doing too many track events and it seemed like a good compromise. The video basically shows the dummy's getting mangled (tests revealed conditions that led to death for humans in ANY of the serious crash conditions). It all comes down to how far back the belts need to reach before the attachment point (too much stress). As far as I know, EVERY good belt supplier recommends no more than 24" between the point where the belts pass through the seat and the attachment point. The other condition you don't want is for the belts to have a large vertical rise to get to the pass through holes in the seat. If you do, it puts a huge amount of stress on the pass through holes and defeats the proper dissipation of energy (key to saving your ***). These videos were made to show a wide variety of safety gear in action (sort of a myth buster idea). As far as I know, the videos aren’t online.

I ordered these and had them installed by the dealer before I even picked up my MR. I've got them for sale if anyone's interested.
You’re welcome to come and check my extremely thorough track log. I'm insane when it comes to putting valuable data in this baby. I've taken temps of nearly every (valuable) part on the Evo. My data clearly shows the Mits brake cooling ducts made NO difference in rotor temps under ALL my test conditions (spring, summer, fall, rain, sleet, humidity level, cloud cover, etc).

There's some truth to this for sure. Even the AMS kit requires quite a bit of "customizing" to get it right.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...R/IMG_0153.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...R/IMG_0154.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...R/IMG_0156.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...R/IMG_0158.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...R/IMG_0166.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...R/IMG_0168.jpg

 

I was in the same situation at the beginning of last summer. I had lots of track time in a BMW but none in the evo. What I found:

1) stock tires work well on the track
2) stock rear pads are fine - they don't do much work
3) stock front pads suck but will work if you don't push the braking zones too much. Tried Ferodo DS2500 front pads, much better than stock, but still faded. Really need true track pads to drive (brake) the car hard.
4) I used ATE brake fluid, Motul is higher temp but a bit pricier. I didn't run with the stock fluid but as hot as the front brakes get, I don't think it would be wise. Fade is easier to deal with than the pedal going to the floor!

The above applies for casual track use. If you want to get the most out of the car, you'll need to do much more, as discussed in some of the posts above. Have fun, the evo, even stock, is beautifully responsive on the track.

 

My evo runs pretty good. i got stock tires and brakes. sometimes my gears dont go in though. i think its my bushings

 

Motor Sports Sub-forum:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/motor-sports-15/

There are a few build threads in there. Good place to start reading.

I recommend HPDE days to start getting into road racing.

 

have a very good time at the track.

 

Very curious to see your data and instrumentation setup! I seem to recall someone that had the air guides, dust shields still installed, and the calipers were brownbos on the outside, but still red on the inside. Can't find the pic right how though. If anything, might help with the cooling of the hub also.

 

So this ducting worked out for you?
We used to use ATE in the Porsche, but I have a buncg of Motul at the shop, so I probably will just grab some 600.
Thanks for providing the info.

 

Did all the track requirements to get POC, VARA, and "PRO" (LA Street Race, and "Tustin Thunder" if anyone remembers) licenses in the late 90's, and subsequently did some endurance racing and a lot of sprint racing. I have no plans on road racing the thing. I run a motorcycle road racing team through my store, and have road raced bikes 12 months a year for the last 12 years. I don't need to race in '08, as I have guys now that can ride the bikes faster than me, and being younger, they'll tend to bend more than break like me when they crash.
If I want to race, I'll just grab one of the bikes.
I just want to go flog a car occasionally on the track. I should be able to get some yah-yahs without it being a part of my yob.

 

AMS (they make great stuff) but they are not the only company out there that makes a BDCK. (PS 05 MR - you ducting looks way too low/excessive bending?)

Hot Lap Motorsports BDCK:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=277934

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k6...o/DSCF1753.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k6...o/DSCF1755.jpg


Look up the local Porsche Club of America or Corvette Club or Viper Club or Saab Club. Lots of them have track days and will allow other cars out with them for some fun "who is faster (and spent way less money )" tracking. Also just go and check out local tracks info - many have open tracking days that you can run.

 

It was at first (especially on the passenger side with the oil filter in the way). The only pics I have are from the initial installation. I've since changed the set up and run the hose through the plastic wheel well backing. When I first installed the kit, I wanted to do the least amount of cutting and pasting in case I didn't like it and wanted it removed. After taking rotor temp measurements at all 3 of my "regular" mid west tracks, I decided it was never coming out. Changing the routing, keeping the ducting higher up and running through the back of the wheel well housing also allowed me to remove several feet of hose length. This new routing also led to better (measured) cooling, especially on the passenger side where my rotor temps were consistently 20-80 degrees higher.

http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Evo997GT-3.flv
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n...7GT-3part2.flv

A stock MR is no match for a new 997 GT-3, but it's fun to try.

 

Good to hear.

 

That looked like BIR..? I recognize I guess what would be turn one (right off the drag strip). You get that thing tapped out down that straight?
I'm having a brand-new '06 SE delivered to me tomorrow. The dealer is 2-hours away, and I talked them into delivering it to me
I think I got the last new one in California. SoCal at least.. Not in love with the color (Silver), but I am with it being an SE.
I'm geeked up. I gotta go out of town for a week, Thursday, so that'll suck.
When I get back I'll get the ducting and change out the fluid, then hunt around for a track day
Thanx a lot for the input, guys. I really appreciate it.

 

before every track day, check your oil coolant and all other fluids.

get high temp brake fluid, i use motul 615 (or something) and it works.

get a track pad to change at the track, i used porterfield street/track pads, which are supposed to be good but i had tremendous heat soak after 5 laps and braking greatly diminished, i would reccomend some hawk dtc-70's or something along those lines.

get new tires for track use only for 2 reasons:
with street tires, you will significantly decrease their life, they will heat cycle and you will loose all grip early on your session, no fun.

R compounds are the best investment you can make. personally if you are interested in doing this a lot, i would go and get some 18x9.5's and get some 285's. if it is just for fun a few times, some 17x9.5's w/ 255's are a good choice and will save you some money. make sure to get a strong wheel. i prefer the Enkei nt03+m (not that pricey either). for tires, i have heard good things about the bfg r1's. i used some yokohama ao48's and loved them, they will last you a really long time and seem to sustain great grip throughout a long session.

enjoy the driving! keep an eye on the temp gauge while on track!