Question #1

From what I understand in order for the Evo to meet US crash standards a large relativly heavy bar was put in the front bumper which happens to be one of the last places that you want to add weight on the Evo. Has anyone taken this bar out, and if so what did you have to do in order to remove it? Was anything attached to it that had to be otherwise braced?

Question #2
Has anyone relocated the battery to the trunk? The Evo carries most of it weight on the front tires thus forcing them to do the lions share of the work i.e. steering, some acceleration, a lot of braking, as well as carrying 60% of the weight load. I was thinking that relocating the batt would help the weight distribution (along with removeing the front brace), shift to the rear some. Maybe this would help some of the slight oversteering problem? The relocation of a battery is very common in many forms of motorsport racing as a way to shift weight distribution, added with removeing weight from not only the whole car but the front end would have to be benificial in helping to achieve a more neutral steering attitude.

Just wondering if these things have already been tryed.

 

Shiv took out the bumber beams and they werent that heavy at all... not worth doing.

Try to reduce rotational mass instead of taking apart body parts. If you get some lightweight rims and lightweight rotors, you car will definately accelerate faster.

As far as the battery relocation goes, i dont think it would be worthwhile, unless your bored and have nothing to do, then it would be fun!

 

Well unles syour going to be racing it and getting into the 11's then you don't have a reason to put the battery in the trunk. Most tracks don't care either but Maple Grove is big on rules and some of the others around PA, NJ, MD are to.

 

Here's Shiv's thread.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=19307

 

i think QuantumEvo removed his bar

PM him

 

The bumper bar on the EVo is so puny and light compared to that of my corrado that I really doubt you will notice anything unless you are building a race car.

 

I did it - it helps for sure - but to do the battery re-location properly - its a costly job - the beam is about 13 lbs

 

I remember reading about one guy who moved his.
He made a good point...
Taking 45lbs from front to back is really a 90lb difference.
Makes sense to me. I have not done it yet though.

 

Well, I have som 0ga. wire at the house that could be used to put the battery in the rear, but do I need to go that thick? Hell, thats 10 lbs being added back in! What gauge wire would be sufficient? 4ga, 2ga?

 

Why sacrifice weight at the expense of safety? (And don't bother telling me mitsubishi engineers don't know what they are doing.) If they needed this beam to pass gov tests, which are pathetic tests for your safety, this is the last thing I would want to take out. Your probably going to be driving this vehicle at high speeds. Why chance it? Unless you decide your going to put a roll-cage with 5pt's...stupid.

 

That's a lot of current to be traveling all the way from your trunk to your engine bay. 4 gauge might have worked when it was only 6 feet or less, but you go from bumper to bumper, you better use the 0 gauge. Unless of course you don't want yor car to get the proper amount of current or possibly have an electrical fire due to the wire overheating cause of the huge current draw when cranking (God forbid it ever take you longer than 1 full second to crank the motor to start, but I wouldn't risk it).

Josh

 

WORKS will soon be offering a battery relocation kit for the Evo. Mitsubishi went to great lengths to drop weight off the front of the car, even going so far as to spec aluminum for the hood and front fenders. A battery relocation kit is just one more ingredient towards creating an optimally balanced Evo.

WORKS is a big proponent of weight management and our Exhale exhaust also does wonders in dropping weight from the car by eliminating the heavy rear muffler section (it is important to try to remove weight at the extreme ends of the car, where possible and the Exhale does a nice job of this).

-- DavidV

 

We removed the factory battery and replaced it with a slim-line Hawker dry cell which we mounted, on its side, under the passenger-side seat. We ran the 0 gauge wire from the engine bay, under the car and up into the passenger cabin. We made some heavy-duty brackerts to hold the batter in place. Cold Crank Amp rating of the dry cell, IIRC, is actually higher than that of the factory. It's been 10,000 miles and no issues. Total weight savings were about 20 lbs with a good chunk of weight removed from just above the front driver's side wheel and relocated to a more reasonable location. That's a good thing since the front driver-side wheel (on our car, at least) has always been the one that wears out first.

Cheers
shiv