Ok i know it is good to get weight reduction for optimal performance. But i was reading that every 60 pounds u loose that will equal 5HP. Is this true any one know more about this or did any tests for this. And also i was woundering if anyone knows how much HP u get for each 1psi u turn up the boost. And i heard the stock turbos are only good to about 23psi safely. Why is this if u had meth could i turn the stock turbo up higer safely. Just woundering if maybe i can get a little better performance out of my car by weight reduction and turning up the boost a little more. It is at 21psi right now but i want to make sure it is safe thanks guys

 

Not sure about the 60lbs and 5hp thing. If its true, im hitting the gym.

 

regarding weight reduction i have heard about the same statistic regarding quarter mile times but i am not sure. with boost, it isnt just simply turning up the boost, if you just turn up the boost you have a chance of loosing power if you arent tuned. the stock turbo is good up to about 26psi reliably on meth. but once again if you just turn up the boost without any tuning you are running your turbo inneficiently and you wont be making any more power really

 

Cool thanks i know u have to tune it. But what is it good to with out meth so 26 psi on meth. But what really makes it not good enough to hold more psi. It it the size of the compressor wheel? And Does any one have any testing done with say 21psi then turn it up to say 23 psi with a tune if there was a difference in Hp and Torq. And i know there would be but how much is what i am woundering a ball park figuer say with every psi u turn it up staying on the same octane of gas how much Torq and Hp do u gain. Because i am woundering if u wanted a bit more performance out of the car with out buying any more go fast parts. Just try and reduce weight and turn up the boost a little with a good tune u should be able to show some gains i would think. And i read about every 60 pounds equals 5HP so i wanted to see is there any fact to this because i think that is a big oversight to most people.

 

I thought it was about 0.1 seconds per 100 lbs, but that can vary obviously.

One week when I helped my girl move out from North GA (100 miles north of me), we had to fit ALL of her stuff in my car and drive back. The night before, I removed the rear seats to fit things between the trunk and the backseat area more easily. I liked the bare interior look, so I thought I'd take out the spare tire, jack and tool, trunk wood and mat. About 60 lbs weight reduction total. There was a noticeable difference in handling IMO. I did straight-away pulls and went down the local twisty roads. I will say without the rear seats, the stock exhaust at WOT sounded much louder.

I've put everything back in place now, even though I rarely carry passengers.

 

I think it would be better to equate a weight difference to acceleration (e.g. 1/4 mile or 0-60) than a horsepower equivalent; due to the fact that a car that makes a lot of horsepower but is super laggy or has some other problem may actually accelerate slower than a lower horsepower, but more efficient car.

 

Go to this site download the turbocalc.zip and you can see for yourself. It calculates all the good stuff. It does weight et, turbo size ,hp, and a lot of other.http://www.turbofast.com.au/freesoftware.html

 

It depends on the type of weight you are removing id think.

Rotating mass vs. Dead weight

Maybe one of these guys is a math superhero and knows.

 

its called "unsprung weight"

less weight to move = less weight to stop

easier to get up to speed.

 

unsprung weight also depends greatly on where its located. a rotor is unsprung weight, but will have less performance value than say tires or wheels. Even flywheel weight greatly depends on speed. And for the love of all that is holy, please do not ask how much 1 psi of boost will gain in terms of hp. Just look up a compressor effeciency map on whatever turbo you have and keep it within its optimal range.

 

for every pound of weight you lose in your wheels you lose about 6 pounds of rotating mass in 1st gear i believe.

 

by far the best calculator online!

 

I'm pretty certain it is ~8 lbs. Lighter/heavier wheels are a "butt dyno detectable" difference.

 

I deleted ~33lbs of rotational mass from my SE - light(er) rotors and wheels. It makes the biggest difference in the way the car feels and it's not subtle. It seems like the car is significantly lighter, much more so that the 33lbs would indicate. The handling is a lot more responsive. As for 1/4 mile times, I'll let Vince Diesel comment.

 

What wheels and rotors did you go with? I know AMS sells a brake kit that takes a huge chunck of unsprung weight out, but is kind of expensive. I'm probably switching to MR BBS (18 lbs) or Advan RS (?? lbs) wheels depending on money situation.