"Crunchy" 1->2 Shifts?
so today, the problem wasn't as bad. (especially when the engine was warmed up).
When I shift into 2nd i have to 2 fingers (thats right!! like how you do for da ladies
) and push the lever back into second and i feel less crunchy if or none at all. It no sounds more like the a mechanical engagement.
I shift rather weird...i just use 2 finger pull for 2 and 4. Use the palm of my hand for 3 and flick wrist for 5.
3 is giving me some problems. It's smoother going in but i feel this my level it hitting some piece right at the end before its fully engage. If I wait a 1/2 second before pushing it into 3rd, it goes it pretty much like butter. But by that time, my rpms drop below rev-match and I get into engine braking.
When I shift into 2nd i have to 2 fingers (thats right!! like how you do for da ladies
I shift rather weird...i just use 2 finger pull for 2 and 4. Use the palm of my hand for 3 and flick wrist for 5.
3 is giving me some problems. It's smoother going in but i feel this my level it hitting some piece right at the end before its fully engage. If I wait a 1/2 second before pushing it into 3rd, it goes it pretty much like butter. But by that time, my rpms drop below rev-match and I get into engine braking.
What you describe is pretty much what every Evo 5-speed does. When cold, just about impossible to do the 1-2 shift without really forcing it; hell, the first couple shifts, i just go to 3rd. Have to pause a bit even when warm to get to 2nd, slight pause to go into 3rd but then it goes in 'like butter' as you said.
There are little things you can do to improve it: shifter bushings, SS clutch line, motor mounts.
For tranny fluid, I would advise against BG Synchroshift based on what I've read on here.... basically, it feels like it shifts better because it's too thin. Being too thin has been the probable cause for numerous trannies going out. I'm using a mix of Redline MT-90 and Heavyduty Shockproof myself.
For more info, search with the term 'notchy' and you'll come up with more stuff.
There are little things you can do to improve it: shifter bushings, SS clutch line, motor mounts.
For tranny fluid, I would advise against BG Synchroshift based on what I've read on here.... basically, it feels like it shifts better because it's too thin. Being too thin has been the probable cause for numerous trannies going out. I'm using a mix of Redline MT-90 and Heavyduty Shockproof myself.
For more info, search with the term 'notchy' and you'll come up with more stuff.
thanks for all the help.
I'm going to Mitsubishi sometime this week to do a tranny fluid change. I can actually live without changing the fluid since i changed up my technique. But I am getting to around 30K miles. The dealer said you don't change fluid for 60k, but I always hear 30K miles....makes me wonder if the dealer doesn't know what he is talking about.
I'm going to Mitsubishi sometime this week to do a tranny fluid change. I can actually live without changing the fluid since i changed up my technique. But I am getting to around 30K miles. The dealer said you don't change fluid for 60k, but I always hear 30K miles....makes me wonder if the dealer doesn't know what he is talking about.
Sounds to me like the dealership is trying to set you up for failure. You'll bring the car in at 60k with some transmission issues and they'll ask you why you didn't bring it in for the 30k fluid change and of course in the process void your warranty. I say just change the fluids yourself and have that peace of mind.
So I found a shop that changed my transmission oil for me. I got 4 quarts of REDLINE MT90 and had them put that in.
What's the verdict?:
It seems like its worse. I got it out of the shop, I take it for a spin and everything is knotchier. What was 2 knotches for 4th gear.... is now 7 knocthes. (I felt knotches I never felt before) Plus I already grinded my 1 -> 2 shift (or atleast ridiculously crunchy) and I have grinded my 2 -> 3.
If I apply my "technique", i can minimize the damage, but the technique is slow and I always under-revved at the time to do a rev-match. Once the oil warmed up (this takes time...probably like a good 10 miles of driving) then i can get better shifting, but its similiar to my old oil. There was one once where I felt butter smooth shifting...................ONCE.
I'm still playing with the car. I am going to drive it more. I am giving it the benefit of the doubt that it needs time apply the oil. But it seems like there is something wrong with my synchros. (what I don't get is that it only affects UPSHIFTS, not downshifts).
Is it the way I am shifting that is causing the problem? What could I be doing wrong?
I think I am going to need to schedule an appointment with mitsubishi and have them check the whole transmission. It's still under warranty.
What's the verdict?:
It seems like its worse. I got it out of the shop, I take it for a spin and everything is knotchier. What was 2 knotches for 4th gear.... is now 7 knocthes. (I felt knotches I never felt before) Plus I already grinded my 1 -> 2 shift (or atleast ridiculously crunchy) and I have grinded my 2 -> 3.
If I apply my "technique", i can minimize the damage, but the technique is slow and I always under-revved at the time to do a rev-match. Once the oil warmed up (this takes time...probably like a good 10 miles of driving) then i can get better shifting, but its similiar to my old oil. There was one once where I felt butter smooth shifting...................ONCE.
I'm still playing with the car. I am going to drive it more. I am giving it the benefit of the doubt that it needs time apply the oil. But it seems like there is something wrong with my synchros. (what I don't get is that it only affects UPSHIFTS, not downshifts).
Is it the way I am shifting that is causing the problem? What could I be doing wrong?
I think I am going to need to schedule an appointment with mitsubishi and have them check the whole transmission. It's still under warranty.
Hmm... well, I guess that narrows it down to 3 things: your tranny is crap, the shop didn't do a proper job on refilling the tranny, or you need to bleed the hydraulic clutch line.
How will i know to bleed the hydraulic clutch line. Can a dealer do this for me? or they going to charge me an arm and a leg?



needs new tranny fluid

