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03 EVO VIII problem with heater control knob

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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 09:10 AM
  #31  
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kaj
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Sounds like your temp knob is on max cold.. Other than that, no clue.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 10:46 PM
  #32  
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how much would something like this cost to fix at the dealer?
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 11:10 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by dookiedang
how much would something like this cost to fix at the dealer?
I think he mentions that in the first post in this thread from 2008.
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 12:09 AM
  #34  
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same problem on my 03. I bought mine already busted! Luckly a buddy had one just laying in the shop! Until its in I have also resorted to the lever under the dash!
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 11:39 AM
  #35  
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I've owned the upgraded plastic pieces for a year. Have yet to install. LOL. I guess I'm waiting til it breaks? Also, I don't want to do it until i can add the cabin filter, otherwise I'll be going through this all over again, later. Anyone have any updated/current info on cutting the dash and installing the filter? Any tricks to it?
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by kaj
I've owned the upgraded plastic pieces for a year. Have yet to install. LOL. I guess I'm waiting til it breaks? Also, I don't want to do it until i can add the cabin filter, otherwise I'll be going through this all over again, later. Anyone have any updated/current info on cutting the dash and installing the filter? Any tricks to it?
Some people garage their Evo, some park it in the street under a tree. The filter is to keep the tree stuff out of the heater box.

Replacing the levers is easy and doing it may keep the knob from ever breaking. So, I'd suggest getting the new style levers installed right away. If you are a tree parker you may need the filter and also the the new door.
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 04:38 PM
  #37  
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I had the same issue and finally got off my lazy *** to fix it this past summer. I ordered the parts listed in the TSB from page 2 and also put an in-cab filter to keep it from happening again.

Apparently dust and debris got in the AC ducts over the years which caused the louver to get dirty and sticky. It isn't that hard to fix but it does take some work and some patience. Once replaced the knob functions like new and does not give any issues.

(Caution! Actung! – The steps listed below are for reference. Your experience may vary. =)

**This was all done from memory from the summer. There are other minor steps that I did not mention that were done. TAKE YOUR TIME! If you have any additional questions please feel free to PM me; I may be able to assist you. I would rate the difficulty of this project a 6/10.**

Here are the steps I took to fix the problem:

1) Order parts from TSB pdf on page 2 of this thread. I believe the total parts cost was roughly $180

Description Model Part Number
Heater air blend link and lever kit Lancer, Evo, Outlander 7801A110
Blower motor housing filter Lancer, Evo, Outlander MN185231
Blower motor housing filter Lancer, Evo, Outlander MR398288
Screws Lancer, Evo, Outlander MF453032

**You may want to also order a new cable that connects the AC Temp Knob to the AC Box. I do not have a part number on hand but Mitsubishi was easily able to find it for me.

2) Remove dash from car. I unbolted the dash support to allow for extra space. (I am not sure of the official name of the metal, structural piece that the steering column bolts to and wire harness attaches to so… “dash support?”

3) Remove AC box from car. There are four nuts and two coolant lines that hold the AC box in place. Two bolts are top, and two are bottom. (removing the coolant lines are a pita, make sure you drain your radiator below the point where the coolant lines meet the AC box or else you get coolant all over =/)

4) Remove AC box from car and disassemble. (be careful to not break the clips that hold the box together. I used a flat screw driver to coax them loose.)

5) Replace defective parts with new parts ordered. (You will receive a lot of screws with the TSB kit. Use them to secure the box where the clips were originally. You will see screw holes; be careful, the plastic is delicate.)

6) Replace foam insulation on AC box around coolant lines.

7) Reinstall AC box (Includes attaching coolant hoses, four nuts, and wires.)

*** This is OPTIONAL but is worth doing while you have the dash out!***

A) Remove all air ducts and vents from the dash, clean them, and put them back together.

B) Purchase felt tape which will be used to insulate the ducts without taking up too much space. (I purchased 3M brand felt tape from my local hardware store. The tape cost about $14, is about 5” wide, and 12” long.
** Use the driver side ducts for reference since they already have insulation on them. You can easily figure out where the noise comes from by smacking the ducts against each other. **

C) Place felt on the ducts where you hear noise. The driver’s side ducts, at least in my car, needed additional padding. Once padded, make sure you don’t get any noise when bumping ducts against each other.

D) Put ducts back together on dash.

8) Put dash back in.. Take your time and watch for extra bolts.... I had four extra when I put mine back together.

9) Enjoy your rattle-less dash and functional AC knob.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:52 PM
  #38  
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maan just broke mine out of fraustration.......
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 12:40 PM
  #39  
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I have the same problem, find it easier to just go under the dash and move the cable
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 04:43 PM
  #40  
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If you take it to the dealership they will charge you 680 for labor only
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 04:45 PM
  #41  
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From: Hayward
Originally Posted by dookiedang
how much would something like this cost to fix at the dealer?
This will cost you 680 for labor only if you take it to the dealership. I went last week and they gave me that figure. too much
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 05:08 PM
  #42  
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Hey guys,

So i was able to fix my problem on my 2004 lancer. my left knob on my heater control had broken off which prevent me from being able to switch from hot to cold or vice versa. I had to use pliers but even then it was hard to turn the knob. So this past weekend i was able to fix the problem. After searching around the web and by taking out the control unit myself, i came to a conclusion that the problem was just the temperature wire that is connected from the temperature control knob to the actual unit where there is a tooth turning knob which switches from hot to cold. this is located underneath the steering wheel to the right of it, you cant miss it, it is white. The wire is black which is for the temperature knob. Im telling you the color of the wire because there are two one which is blue and other one is black. I did have to buy the wire from the dealership. the wire cost me 10.95 plus tax (thanks uncle Sam). Also i found the heater control unit for 40 bucks at Pick N Pull. The heater control unit on ebay runs for about $140. You can also buy it at the dealership for 380. So this whole job was done for about 55 bucks as oppose to taking it to the dealership and paying 680 for LABOR ONLY. Its really is not hard at all. I can take pictures of the unit if needed. Also i can post the part number and also this website that has a diagram of the heater control unit part numbers.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 05:43 AM
  #43  
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I have a spare control that I'm going to put up for sale!
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 06:47 AM
  #44  
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Don't even need to put it up. Ill by it from you right now. Pm me ur paypal info
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #45  
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I have the same problem. I tried to troubleshoot the issue, but could not take out the heater control module, do you know how to take it out?

Thanks!!
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