no, your confusing yourself.

2 wires coming off the plug from the lil box.... that is what you plug the new fan wires into.. black is ground.

easy as 1-2-3

 

the 2 wires in your top photo....

 

I was as worried as you were when he seemed so confused

Scorke

 

The only problem I see is that it that it has 4 wires coming off of it. I assume I use two of them?

 

the plug has 2 wires coming out of it.... cut those 2 wires BEFORE they turn into 4 wires...... forget the 4 wires.... then solder your new fan wires into those 2 wires... black wire to black wire...

jeebus... lord have mercy on u

 

I didn't bother putting the control box in with my slim fan. Instead the fan is constantly running.

 

no bueno for your battery... specially if u run one of those rinky dinky mini batteries...

 

hah, not good, use the control box and just mount it on the frame like I did and many others...

 

the box has a couple controls for the car keep it and wire it in with the slim fan

 

My browser froze up and posted that 2 times. I didn't ask the same question 2 times!

 

The box works like this:

it takes a signal from your coolant temp sensor on the head, near the thermostat, figures out if your car is moving or not and switches the engine fan on slow speed only at 92 deg C (in a VII) if the temp gets to 97-98, then both fans come on at high speed until temps are less than 91 deg C.

(I live in Trinidad and it gets to 32-34 deg C here every day)

if you turn on your AC it bypasses this controller and puts on the fans on high speed regularly and the engine temps hover around 85-90 de C.

If you bypass the box and run the fan on all the time the following will happen:

You will lose power due to parasitic drag on your alternator.
Your battery and Alternator will not last as long as they should
Mileage will decrease.
Your fan may not last very long either. On a cool morning with no stops for traffic in my 30 min commute the fans may never even come on. Now imagine the fan being on all the time, it puts much more wear on the fan.

lastly, the car will actually run HOTTER at highway speed that if the fan were cutting out and coning on as it should.

 

Well I guess I could chime in on this. I work for Bosch Automotive and do testing with radiator fans and motors so yea...

I'm not sure exactly about the one on our cars (lancers alike) but I believe its a PWM, pulse width modulator that basically has a bunch of high current transistors that allow it to regulate the speed of the radiator fan at any given time. So it takes the 12v going in and runs it through the transistors at a high switching frequency allowing for the ECU to control what speed the fan spins at. Technically if you bypass it the fan would just constantly stay on at max speed.

Keep in mind this is based off the Bosch FCM (Fan Control Modules) that I've dealt with...

Hope that helps...?

 

if 4 wires come out of it i would use all 4...not sure what each does but i'm sure it has to do with the fan kicking on when the car is not moving but the engine is running (relay box)

 

Right...good advice.

 

u cannot let alluh trinis do anything.