I was driving home from the store just normal driving when all of a sudden my car just stalls. the fuel pump is working cause I can hear it. it would turn over but not start... I waited about 1/2 hour then it fired up! WTF I thought it might of overheated (was 95 that day) but my temp was ok.
could it be I everheated the coils or the walbro? also I had my ac on, has anyone had these issues?

 

You probably fueled with some leftover winter gas and you vapor locked.

 

do yourself a favor right now.. i had the same problem about 4 months ago.. pull out your fuel pump assembly.. crack that white case and look at the black and red wire that connect to the pump ... my black wire was out of the connector which caused it to arch inside the tank which was causing it to start only sometimes and cut out when it wants to.. called up mitsu and bought a whole new connector.. not saying this is your problem but i would most deff check

 

the pump was on, I could hear it clear as day. any other ideas?

 

crank sensor? I have seen similar symptoms when they go bad. they can get damaged from the heat, go bad when it gets hot in the engine area. as soon as the engine bay temps drop, the sensor works fine, the vehicle starts fine... until it warms up again.

 

how much for a new one of those?

 

Same thing happened today, again... I turn the ac on, the car started to hesitate then would just die. it would not start back up. let it sit for about 10 min. then it fine. what coul it be? any input please

 

Does it happen when you are accelerating, down shifting, in neutral? Give us a little more info about when it happens, if you have noticed any pattern therein.

I had a problem for a while due to injector failure when I was in neutral. My car would not idle and then would stall and not run for hours. Not exactly sure why but it did end up being an injector problems, however it was throwing an injector circuit code as well.

 

I was cruising on the highway with ac on I believe I was decel but my speed was probaly 50 or so then it just died. it took me 10-15 min. untill I was able to start back up

 

does it do it with the AC off?
how many miles are on the car?

sounds like a crank sensor problem
is it throwing any codes?

 

Vapor lock. Overheating fuel pump. How much gas in the car? Other than that, crank sensor maybe, but not likely. Would usually throw a code. The wire thing makes sense. Next time it shuts down, check for fuel to the rail, then spark at the plug, that should tell you whats up. Just cuz you can hear the pump, its not always pumping fuel. When is the last time you changed the filter?

 

The car has 59k miles, I got 1/2 tank. yes it did do it with the ac off one time but it was right after I got it started again, the car ran fine for two months the problems acured after I tried to turn on the ac. It is not throwing any codes so I have no clue

 

Possibly fuel pump relay. It is infamous for corroding and thus the leads going to it end up breaking off. This would cause the fuel pumps load to spike and bottom out without warning. The fuel pump relay is on the left while facing the engine pay, all the way in the back, on a panel with about 4 things attached to it. It is very to get to and physically examine.

This is just a shot in the dark, truly this will be a hard problem to diagnose. It could be caused by many different things. You don't have a CEL or anything that would cause it not to throw a code, correct?


Not sure if this will help me, but tell me what modifications you have done to it. I'll definitely try to help.

 

I just replaced the fuel pump relay about 1 month ago because it crapped out. also I hardwired it like the older dsm. you think that might be an issue? maybe bad ground? or something? maybe I should turn it back to stock and see if it still does it. does anyone know how many amps the relay should be if you hardwire it, I think i'm using a 30 amp

 

If you just replaced it about a month ago, chances are I'm wrong. I'm just going down the list of things it might be. I'm no mechanic, I've just owned two evos and have had my fair share of problems.

Granted, if you wired the relay differently than stock then you might have an issue there. It couldn't hurt to explore that path to see if that is the problem. I have no clue about the specifics of the relay, so I couldn't be any help as far as the amperage goes. Is this a similar problem, such as in the way the car feels when the problem occurs, that you experienced the first time the relay went bad?

I honestly wish I could be more help. Hopefully we are exploring the right path with the relay, but honestly... you don't sound like this is your first rodeo. I assume you know how many different things it can be.

Explain to me this hard wiring of the relay a little more? No connector involved? Directly in line, soldered in? I believe that soldering things can cause issues with ohms and since it is a relay that might be a problem? Do you have a link possibly to information on this?