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Annoying Day

Old Oct 1, 2009 | 10:40 PM
  #16  
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atleast it was an easy diagnosis and fix...
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 11:59 AM
  #17  
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Dont let it get to you..good luck with the fix and keep your head up buddy
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 01:56 PM
  #18  
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Okay so something similar happened to me. I had the EGR hoses come loose/off and threw a P0401 code last night. Cleared the codes with my COBB AP. Went out to the car this afternoon to fix it. Found the hoses and was reattaching them. Was dumb enough to leave the battery connected, my own stupidity. reattached the hoses and went around the intake mani to make sure it was all good. Had my watch on and then reached my hand around the bottom of the IM from the passenger side and heard an electrical sparking twice. They were real small. Though nothing of it. Went in to the car to start it up and nothing. Crank it again and nada. No turn over, no nothing. Use my AP to check code and it says P0335. Any help guys cuz I have no f***ing clue?
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 02:01 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by quinn6051
Okay so something similar happened to me. I had the EGR hoses come loose/off and threw a P0401 code last night. Cleared the codes with my COBB AP. Went out to the car this afternoon to fix it. Found the hoses and was reattaching them. Was dumb enough to leave the battery connected, my own stupidity. reattached the hoses and went around the intake mani to make sure it was all good. Had my watch on and then reached my hand around the bottom of the IM from the passenger side and heard an electrical sparking twice. They were real small. Though nothing of it. Went in to the car to start it up and nothing. Crank it again and nada. No turn over, no nothing. Use my AP to check code and it says P0335. Any help guys cuz I have no f***ing clue?
First check fuses then do the next bit.

First you know where the crank sensor is right? Its the plug behind the timing cover on the passenger side of the vehicle, has only 3 prongs. Need to ohm out the sensor and see if you get some ohms on at least 2 of the prongs. The rest should be open line.

Next check the plug that goes into it (male side) for voltage with the car on you should be able to get 12volts, 5 volts, and a ground check the ground with an ohm meter to the negative on the battery should be 2ohms or less.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 05:11 PM
  #20  
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okay checked all the fuses related to the engine and they are all good. checked the battery and it was reading around a 12v to 14v earlier and now its reading just under 10v. couldn't get my hands on a voltmeter tonight, had too much homework. if you have pics or link to pics of the crank sensor so i know which one i'm looking at that would help out alot.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 01:26 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by quinn6051
okay checked all the fuses related to the engine and they are all good. checked the battery and it was reading around a 12v to 14v earlier and now its reading just under 10v. couldn't get my hands on a voltmeter tonight, had too much homework. if you have pics or link to pics of the crank sensor so i know which one i'm looking at that would help out alot.
Yeah it sits next to the intake manifold you can see how the wire goes for item 6.

Attached Thumbnails Annoying Day-crank-sensor.jpg  
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 04:13 PM
  #22  
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Okay so i unplugged item five to measure with a volt meter cuz i wasn't positive where the crankshaft position sensor was. i checked all the plugs and found 10v and 5v. the 10v isn't that weird cuz now my battery is reading 10v at the terminals. it was reading around 12v a few days ago. but i didn't seem to get any resistance but I'll check it again tomorrow. too late tonight to check it again.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by quinn6051
Okay so i unplugged item five to measure with a volt meter cuz i wasn't positive where the crankshaft position sensor was. i checked all the plugs and found 10v and 5v. the 10v isn't that weird cuz now my battery is reading 10v at the terminals. it was reading around 12v a few days ago. but i didn't seem to get any resistance but I'll check it again tomorrow. too late tonight to check it again.
If your not able to get resistance from ANY of the terminals its likely your sensor is dead man. The 10 volts is just from the MFI relay to the battery so if your battery is 10volts it will read 10 volts too.

Sounds like you will be replacing the sensor.

Just a quick note to check resistance on the sensor plug not the connector to the ecu the ecu isn't going to have any measurable ohms only the sensor would.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 06:08 PM
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just so i know i'm not screwing up the resistance test, i have my volt meter set to 2k ohms reading and then just take the positive tester to the prongs and the negative wire to a good ground like the engine block right? stupid question but just want to make sure, as my mechanic best friend just went on a camping trip for a few days with no way of getting a hold of him.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 11:41 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by quinn6051
just so i know i'm not screwing up the resistance test, i have my volt meter set to 2k ohms reading and then just take the positive tester to the prongs and the negative wire to a good ground like the engine block right? stupid question but just want to make sure, as my mechanic best friend just went on a camping trip for a few days with no way of getting a hold of him.
No just ohm out every combination of prongs on the sensor plug (from the sensor) as shown on item 5 on the bottom. One combo of the 3 prongs should ohm out to like 6 ohms or so it doesn't really matter what it ohms to just as long as its not OL.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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okay had my meter set to 20k ohms and got a reading between 10-11. cranked the meter all the way up to 2000k ohms and got a reading of around 500. Not quite sure what that means.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by quinn6051
okay had my meter set to 20k ohms and got a reading between 10-11. cranked the meter all the way up to 2000k ohms and got a reading of around 500. Not quite sure what that means.
Hmm doesn't sound like you are reading the meter correctly I assume this is one of those old school dial units?

I was fairly sure the ohms would be less than that
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 01:42 PM
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yeah it has a dial setup. any idea what this could mean? i tried the 2k and 200 setting but got nothing.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 02:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by quinn6051
yeah it has a dial setup. any idea what this could mean? i tried the 2k and 200 setting but got nothing.
Unkown since i can't see it personally i might be able to make an observation. I'd really like you to use a digital multimeter for this. It will make the testing of the battery leads WAY easier.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 02:21 PM
  #30  
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some additional info i recently had the cams swapped out. the multimeter i have has a dial but it has a digital display. i just bought it from sears a few days ago.
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