Donno if you guys know this or not, but the ECU limits the boost to 0.5 bar until engine is fully warmed up. Give it a try in the morning.

 

I notice that I have to shift faster, cuz the rpm's drop faster when the car's cold (I try to use the clutch as little as possible when shifting, by trying not to feather it much).

 

 

yeah, mine runs like **** until i get a few miles down the road...

it's very hesitant... but i baby it until the temp needle reaches the normal operating temp mark...

 

Hmm.....read from somewhere that you have to wait for the oil(not water) to reach normal operating temp before boosting. Should be about 80 deg C or more.....

 

I'd have to agree, it's the oil not the water. Depending on the climate where you live (warm for me), the water temp is normal pretty soon, but it still takes a while for the oil to get there. If the oil is not sufficiently hot, it does not provide the lube intended and that can cause damage to your engine. I have the oil temp gauge, so I go off that. But if you don't, wait for the idling to become lower. I don't know the exact figure...someone said 850 rpm. If nothing else, less than 1000 rpm. I don't know about the ECU interacting, I haven't pushed it that far.

 

the ecu has 2 maps. One is a start up map for safty so you dont go stomping on it while the oils are still rock hard. It is a great feature, specially since it take the car less then 2 miles to warm up.
I was scared at first when it happened to me.

 

i am not so sure that the 2nd map is for start-up. i think its primariliy there if the car has a problem. for example bad gas.

but not sure.

 

I agree that it needs to be warmed up before you step on it, there has been a few times that I have steped on it before total warm up (freeway on ramp) and nottice a big difference in power. Also yesterday on the way to work, after 8 mins of driving normal I stepped on it in third and got fuel cut, but the temp gauge was in the middle of the operating temp. It was 26 deg out yesterday, and that had to of affected the car also. My Eclipse would always have to be warmed up for like 10 mins, I had a lot of $$ invested in the engine, but could not step on it for at least 10mins.

 

Actually they dont run super rich. Just enough to increase the rpms alittle to lite off the first cat. Depending on the manufacturer they will use a tumble control system in the intake manifold to even DECREASE the the harmful emmisions when cold.

 

Well if you consider how rich it runs already...then add some more. But I gotcha.

 

My DSM was EXACTLY the same. Don't forget it is an IRON BLOCK. Very heavy and doesn't transfer heat NEARLY as fast as aluminum. SO it needs to be heated up, and it will expand slightly to opperating specs, and the oil needs to be heated up as well. Timing is yanked and yanked evenmore if you see boost.


This saves the engine, warm it up first or buy a block heater.

 

Yeah, I noticed the same thing, too...the boost is limited until the engine warms up...it's a good thing.

 

Even running easy letting the car get up to temp, it just runs crappy until it's up to temp. I am not sure why but I have a wide band permanently installed and I can tell you it's not because of being to rich, infact it could use more fuel when cold. I suspect the cold corrections are off, or something in the emission control (EGR?) is active all the time when cold?
All I can tell you is with a stand alone (Power FC) the car runs perfect even when stone cold. I also never run under boost until the oil/water temps are up so...

 

Yep, there is something not right with the US Evo..
I drove an Evo 7 in the uk from cold and it did not mess around like the us 8 does...
FYI, warming the oil will require at least double the time it took to warm the water....