Shep tranny problems
May 11, 2010, 05:28 PM
#1
Shep tranny problems
Does anyone else have grinding issues with thier Shep rebuilt tranny???
I had this thing rebuilt about a year ago with the Shep street and strip option. I also had the EVO 9 1st gear ratio, and the REM ISF Process gearset with rails and hub/sleeves done along with a couple other little things from them.
I have tried both AMSoil and diaqueen with no luck still grinds...I installed BR soild shifter bushings still grinds. I then was told to install SS clutch line.....so I did.....still grinding.
All this was running the ACT 6 puck sprung with the ACT light flywheel and the pill removed from the slave cylinder. So after some time brought the car to another shop to have the clutch adjusted for the second time still no luck.....still grinds. I was told to buy a soild front motor mount and a Ingalls stiffy so I did...still grinding
I had the second shop replace my slave cylinder andddd again GrInDiNg...
So after talking with Shep he told me that a twin disk would make a world of difference.........
Well guess what 2 weeks ago had a Carbonetics twin disk installed and the high speed grinding is still there.
Anyone have any other ideas of what could be happening??
List of stuff I have done.......
Shep street & strip with extra REM options & Evo9 1st gear
Shep T-case
SS clutch line
New OEM slave cylinder
BR soild shifter bushings under hood
BR shifter base bushings
Blox front motor mount
Ingalls stiffy
Diaqueen I have tried AMSoil
Carbonetics twin disk had ACT 6puck with ACT light flywheel
2 different shops adjusting the clutches
New DOT4 fluid change
I had this thing rebuilt about a year ago with the Shep street and strip option. I also had the EVO 9 1st gear ratio, and the REM ISF Process gearset with rails and hub/sleeves done along with a couple other little things from them.
I have tried both AMSoil and diaqueen with no luck still grinds...I installed BR soild shifter bushings still grinds. I then was told to install SS clutch line.....so I did.....still grinding.
All this was running the ACT 6 puck sprung with the ACT light flywheel and the pill removed from the slave cylinder. So after some time brought the car to another shop to have the clutch adjusted for the second time still no luck.....still grinds. I was told to buy a soild front motor mount and a Ingalls stiffy so I did...still grinding
I had the second shop replace my slave cylinder andddd again GrInDiNg...
So after talking with Shep he told me that a twin disk would make a world of difference......... Well guess what 2 weeks ago had a Carbonetics twin disk installed and the high speed grinding is still there.Anyone have any other ideas of what could be happening??
List of stuff I have done.......
Shep street & strip with extra REM options & Evo9 1st gear
Shep T-case
SS clutch line
New OEM slave cylinder
BR soild shifter bushings under hood
BR shifter base bushings
Blox front motor mount
Ingalls stiffy
Diaqueen I have tried AMSoil
Carbonetics twin disk had ACT 6puck with ACT light flywheel
2 different shops adjusting the clutches
New DOT4 fluid change
May 11, 2010, 05:42 PM
#3
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Sounds like the syncros may have wore out some due to improperly adjusted clutch. If the clutch does not release all the way it causes more wear on the syncros.
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May 11, 2010, 10:01 PM
#12
Its your clutch. I bet you're revving past 7500 RPM or so and if you short shifted the transmission on your 1-2 or 2-3 shift you would make it without grinding.
I went threw the SAME drama that you're experiencing with my car.
I rebuilt my gear box, SS clutch line, Exedy twin disc, removed restrictor pill, tried Redline Shockproof AND MTL/MT-90... car still wouldn't shift above 8000rpms...ESPECIALLY the 1-2 shift. The issue lies with in the rotational inertia of the clutch disc. (and the undesputed FACT that ACT clutches plain suck the d!ck when it comes to Evo's)
My solution for you... put the factory juice back in the box... GET A NEW CLUTCH.
I would recommend the Quarter Master 7.25" clutch...or if you want a more streetable clutch...the Exedy Twin (although you will still be limited on your 1-2 shift...it will be CONSIDERABLY better than your current ACT)
Trust me...I've wasted enough money chasing this one around. When you pull your transmission to do the clutch... replace your 2nd gear syncro and your 1-2 slider.... check your hub for wear.
I went threw the SAME drama that you're experiencing with my car.
I rebuilt my gear box, SS clutch line, Exedy twin disc, removed restrictor pill, tried Redline Shockproof AND MTL/MT-90... car still wouldn't shift above 8000rpms...ESPECIALLY the 1-2 shift. The issue lies with in the rotational inertia of the clutch disc. (and the undesputed FACT that ACT clutches plain suck the d!ck when it comes to Evo's)
My solution for you... put the factory juice back in the box... GET A NEW CLUTCH.
I would recommend the Quarter Master 7.25" clutch...or if you want a more streetable clutch...the Exedy Twin (although you will still be limited on your 1-2 shift...it will be CONSIDERABLY better than your current ACT)
Trust me...I've wasted enough money chasing this one around. When you pull your transmission to do the clutch... replace your 2nd gear syncro and your 1-2 slider.... check your hub for wear.
May 11, 2010, 10:07 PM
#13
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Its your clutch. I bet you're revving past 7500 RPM or so and if you short shifted the transmission on your 1-2 or 2-3 shift you would make it without grinding.
I went threw the SAME drama that you're experiencing with my car.
I rebuilt my gear box, SS clutch line, Exedy twin disc, removed restrictor pill, tried Redline Shockproof AND MTL/MT-90... car still wouldn't shift above 8000rpms...ESPECIALLY the 1-2 shift. The issue lies with in the rotational inertia of the clutch disc. (and the undesputed FACT that ACT clutches plain suck the d!ck when it comes to Evo's)
My solution for you... put the factory juice back in the box... GET A NEW CLUTCH.
I would recommend the Quarter Master 7.25" clutch...or if you want a more streetable clutch...the Exedy Twin (although you will still be limited on your 1-2 shift...it will be CONSIDERABLY better than your current ACT)
Trust me...I've wasted enough money chasing this one around. When you pull your transmission to do the clutch... replace your 2nd gear syncro and your 1-2 slider.... check your hub for wear.
I went threw the SAME drama that you're experiencing with my car.
I rebuilt my gear box, SS clutch line, Exedy twin disc, removed restrictor pill, tried Redline Shockproof AND MTL/MT-90... car still wouldn't shift above 8000rpms...ESPECIALLY the 1-2 shift. The issue lies with in the rotational inertia of the clutch disc. (and the undesputed FACT that ACT clutches plain suck the d!ck when it comes to Evo's)
My solution for you... put the factory juice back in the box... GET A NEW CLUTCH.
I would recommend the Quarter Master 7.25" clutch...or if you want a more streetable clutch...the Exedy Twin (although you will still be limited on your 1-2 shift...it will be CONSIDERABLY better than your current ACT)
Trust me...I've wasted enough money chasing this one around. When you pull your transmission to do the clutch... replace your 2nd gear syncro and your 1-2 slider.... check your hub for wear.
Iv contacted john shep and I just got a exedy tiple installed at the same time. It feels the same as before i sent it to him Ans i wasnt slandering him at all. I actaullt talked with him directy and he walked me though what it could be but I stall havnt found what the problem was.
May 12, 2010, 05:36 AM
#15
I see above some folk disliked ACT,,, i tell you that i never had one issue with my clutch, shifting at 500 rpms or 8k it did not matter it would go in without issues,, i was very cautious when i installed it, proper allignment, proper break in period and adjustment before i even got on the throttle.
however i believe you would prefer to get an exedy HD in that car, def call shep and tell him to check out the box.
you are in alaska and you know that your summer is my winter you get super cold there and barely warm up over 50s, metal expands and contracts with temp changes, therfore your parts are running on the tight side because of the extreme constant cold.
however i believe you would prefer to get an exedy HD in that car, def call shep and tell him to check out the box.
you are in alaska and you know that your summer is my winter you get super cold there and barely warm up over 50s, metal expands and contracts with temp changes, therfore your parts are running on the tight side because of the extreme constant cold.