My VIII is down with a blown motor!
Sounds like your callin me out bro, better be careful losing will be bad for ER business 
Jun 7, 2010, 11:47 AM
#36
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I blew my motor last year. I went the 2.4 route and upgraded to a fp black. I have basically same bolt ons and other supporting mods. The cost comprises of 3 major components, since my head was perfect.
2.4 short block - 3k
fp black (sent in ix for upgrade) - 1100
exedy twin hd - 1500
Of course the other costs were some other mods to support 500+ whp and 30psi around 1k.
Total cost of a 2.4 build if you go smiliar to my build is around 8k. That is doing a lot of the work yourself.
2.4 short block - 3k
fp black (sent in ix for upgrade) - 1100
exedy twin hd - 1500
Of course the other costs were some other mods to support 500+ whp and 30psi around 1k.
Total cost of a 2.4 build if you go smiliar to my build is around 8k. That is doing a lot of the work yourself.
Jun 7, 2010, 12:22 PM
#37
Why are to telling someone to go stock long block when they already blew one? get real! I hated going day to day wondering when my stocky was going to pop. Luckly I came up with the funds to build the motor before it blew. Plus for only 2k more than a stock motor he could have a built prof 2.4
Mikey
Mikey
Jun 7, 2010, 12:39 PM
#38
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yes,
I would not go with a stock long block unless you picked up a used one for just nothing and you either fully built it, or a 2.3 or a 2.1.
The reality of it, your not going to find one for nothing... In your situation, the 2.4 is very attractive because it does not require a core.
While nothing is BULLET proof in the aftermarket world when it comes to high boost and motors, this will be your best setup to get the car going again as cheaply as it can.
Sounds like your ready to get her started judging by your last post...
When I did my 2.3 that was a nervous exciting day because I knew i was spending a lot of cash i didn't have to because my motor was running perfect with 500 whp but the smile that was on my face for the extra 70-80 ft lbs was awesome.
Your going to have a very fun DD with that much torque on a stock turbo.
I would not go with a stock long block unless you picked up a used one for just nothing and you either fully built it, or a 2.3 or a 2.1.
The reality of it, your not going to find one for nothing... In your situation, the 2.4 is very attractive because it does not require a core.
While nothing is BULLET proof in the aftermarket world when it comes to high boost and motors, this will be your best setup to get the car going again as cheaply as it can.
Sounds like your ready to get her started judging by your last post...
When I did my 2.3 that was a nervous exciting day because I knew i was spending a lot of cash i didn't have to because my motor was running perfect with 500 whp but the smile that was on my face for the extra 70-80 ft lbs was awesome.
Your going to have a very fun DD with that much torque on a stock turbo.
Jun 8, 2010, 01:15 PM
#40
What are your goals for the car? Just a daily driver? Drag? Road race? Do you need more power?
Dan
Jun 8, 2010, 08:48 PM
#41
I've been on and off E85 for about 1 year now, and running about 29 lbs of boost. Lately, I have been DDing with E85 almost non stop for a few months now. Most of my mornings and afternoons I would not beat on my car at all. I'm self-tuned, and a bit aggressive on the timing at times, but my tunes have been safe with little knock sum. I generally run ~11.6 afr up top. I attached my timing map for those who are interested, which may have not been the same map but it's close.
I noticed I was getting some misfires under heavy load for about week before, but I didn't think much about it, and planned on closing my gap a little bit. I was running bpr8es's gapped at ~.019, and probably should have closed them a bit more. I was just told by a couple people on the forums after this post that misfires and E85 can be potentially dangerous. This was news to me. When the engine went, it seemed like it misfired just before it blew.
Also, on a side note - For the last couple months I was getting part throttle knock, no matter what I did to my tune. Perhaps this was due to some mechanical noise with a failing bearing or something? I've looked into this before, but never found much besides a possible faulty knock sensor, or the part throttle knock being caused by cams.
I noticed I was getting some misfires under heavy load for about week before, but I didn't think much about it, and planned on closing my gap a little bit. I was running bpr8es's gapped at ~.019, and probably should have closed them a bit more. I was just told by a couple people on the forums after this post that misfires and E85 can be potentially dangerous. This was news to me. When the engine went, it seemed like it misfired just before it blew.
Also, on a side note - For the last couple months I was getting part throttle knock, no matter what I did to my tune. Perhaps this was due to some mechanical noise with a failing bearing or something? I've looked into this before, but never found much besides a possible faulty knock sensor, or the part throttle knock being caused by cams.
Go with BR7ES's, and I tell you why I use them.
I have purchased and used all 5 heat ranges, BPR7's, BR7's, BPR8's, BR8's, BPR9's.
If you have them side by side, and measure them, the projected plugs look like they will go in deeper into the chamber. The non-projected plugs look like they will stay up more away from the chamber.
The 8 heat range is a good plug, but in the projected plug version (BPR8ES), the plug will be exposed to more heat since it seats deeper in the hole.
The 7 heat range plug may be too hot of a plug in this range (BPR7ES), but if you choose to go for the non-projected plug, BR7ES, then the plug will be perfect.
Why, because it is seating up in the chamber more as compared to the projected BPR8 plug, and that helps it run cooler and have less blown spark and that in turn results in less mis fires.
That is my way of looking at this, and that is why I now only use the BR7ES range plug.
This will work for car making around 600 hp.
For cars making more power on larger Turbos, then they would need the 8 or 9 heat range in that order.
On the other subject of the timing map you posted, I am not an expert on the topic, but I am learning about it.
Looks like the timing was a bit hi at loads between 200 and 300 units and in between 6000 and 8000 rpms. Enough to cause some what higher cylinder pressures than normal under WOT, that with time of 1 to 2 months was enough to start stressing parts up and causing the knock. Eventually, parts will beging to break up and engine thus fail.
I hope this is some what of a good diagnosis. May be I am wrong, but this is my 2 cents.
Last edited by 04AWDTURBOEVO; Jun 8, 2010 at 08:51 PM.
Jun 13, 2010, 12:33 PM
#42
If you cant do all the work in a closed / garage area i dont recommend doing it outside.
a. to risky - people could steal parts
b. when you let it sit outside opened up it will start to rust
-----
i did my build myself with a friend and as long as you have the proper tools i say do it yourself if you have a garage. Doing it yourself will assure its all done right and properly. I recommend downloading the mitsubishi technical information service guide, as its like a bible for our vehicles.
your timing map looked to aggressive, and e85 is lethal if not dialed in properly.
how much power were you putting down? -------- also i agree if you decide to have any shop do it let it be CBRD.
a. to risky - people could steal parts
b. when you let it sit outside opened up it will start to rust
-----
i did my build myself with a friend and as long as you have the proper tools i say do it yourself if you have a garage. Doing it yourself will assure its all done right and properly. I recommend downloading the mitsubishi technical information service guide, as its like a bible for our vehicles.
your timing map looked to aggressive, and e85 is lethal if not dialed in properly.
how much power were you putting down? -------- also i agree if you decide to have any shop do it let it be CBRD.
Jun 13, 2010, 06:02 PM
#43
I was in the same situation.
If you have money laying around, and it sounds like you do seeing that you would just buy another car in the meantime, I would just get it towed to CBRD. Tell them what you want and have them call you when it is done and dyno tested.
I had to borrow a friends car, and bought all my parts to do it myself at my workplace.
Good luck onn getting it back on the road.
If you have money laying around, and it sounds like you do seeing that you would just buy another car in the meantime, I would just get it towed to CBRD. Tell them what you want and have them call you when it is done and dyno tested.
I had to borrow a friends car, and bought all my parts to do it myself at my workplace.
Good luck onn getting it back on the road.
Jun 13, 2010, 07:25 PM
#44
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I would really like to do this myself, but I don't have a garage and I don't feel comfortable leaving this in my driveway in pieces for weeks.
I bought a $1400 99 Nissan Pathfinder and I've contacted Ivey for some pricing. I'm still leaning towards a 2.4/FP black setup for the near future...
I bought a $1400 99 Nissan Pathfinder and I've contacted Ivey for some pricing. I'm still leaning towards a 2.4/FP black setup for the near future...
