wats up everyone.. so like those of u who have problems wit their car stalling and bogging all the time, especially wen u come to a stop and stuff.. well i been reading here trying to figure out the problem.. i thought it was my iac.. or maibe my maf was bad.. but i changed my cam position sensor and walla.. car drives like new.. no stalling no bogging wen i take of even wit a/c on... and i got an atmospheric bov and running a borg wagner s366.. and she drives like stock now lol.. i was surprised i was about to go spend like 400 for a iac instead i spent 71 at advance auto parts lol.. good thing caused i saved my self alot of money and only took like 2 min, to change..

so u guys who r having issues like i was check that first before u go big wit other things.. just thought ide post to see if itll help anyone with same issues.. good luck and thanks for reading..

 

hmmmm i might try this out

 

Quick question? Do you have any aftermarket cams? if you do which ones?
I read that cams and a/c on will cause the vehicle to stall for instance getting to a traffic light and that only can be corrected by your tuner, but if moving the sensor is the solution can you elaborate the whole procedure?
Thanks

 

my car doesnt stall but the rpm drops a bit but only sometimes after i had it tuned...more explanation please!
and changing the cam sensor wont effect the tune of the vehicle right?
sorry for stupid questions

 

yea i have kelford 272's.. before i did this my car would always fall on its face even if i was backing up.. and taking off it would just bog and start shocking lol.. but now takes off perfect even wit ac on.. doesnt bog.. and idle never sees below 1000.. granted its adjusted with evoflash.. but before i would change the idle like 50 times and nothing worked..

 

How did you change it? Could you write up a lil DIY as to what you did exactly?

 

so have you had a tune beforehand? and chaning the sensor didnt mess with your tune did it?

 

sweet nice catch, i m def going to give it a shot

 

yea before i even thought of changing it it was tuned.. no difference besides the drivability.. it was like night and day lol.. i luved my car like it was a new one again cause let me tell u that bogging out and shutting of at every stop sign can get aggrivating..

 

its pretty simple.. ill post up sum pics tomorrow so u can see.. it really took me like 2 min. to change..

 

i mean y not.. better to just spend the 70 and to spend the 400 for a iac.. and have it not be the problem.. u know.. cause that would suck

 

You have an aftermarket exhaust manifold?

 

yea.. i got a buschur cast wit hks external..

 

I was thinking more along the lines of tubular...

 

ill add to the idle issues!

My car was throwing an IAC code. Car would idle from 400 rpm up to 2300 then fall flat on its face and stall out. After making sure the iac valve moved and some grease. It was fine for a week. Then out of nowhere it was back at it.

I finally bit the bullet and got a new IAC. Just so happened while waiting for FEDEX, i decided to finish installing the meth kit, with the boost by-pass valve. disconnected my boost controller, and after getting distracted for almost an hour. Forgot to hook the hallman boost controller back up, and go to move the car. No problems, no IAC code... Hooked everything back up. IAC code after 5 minutes. Just another thing to watch out for guys!

It is always the last thing we check tho , isnt?