people with idle issues..
To OP, how did you diagnose the cam sensor as bad? just asking cause i have same issue as you described and for me went away when I swapped my AEM metal intake tube for the stock rubber one.
Seems like everyone has a different solution for the same idle issues.
Seems like everyone has a different solution for the same idle issues.
lol.. ur right on that.. i just noticed that my sensor was kinda loose.. i think it was either snapped or enough to not make the full connection.. but it must of happened wen i swapped my first turbo.. maibe hit it or sumthing.. but all i know is that the car was a horrible daily driver.. so i figured i post my issue cause who know if sumone maibe did wat i did or just has one that went bad..
I have similar stalling issues. The cams bump hard when I start the car but when it is warmed up the rpms go from 1000 to 2000 at idle and fluctuates. When I come to a stop it dips down to almost 700 rpms and sometimes stays at 1000. I asked my tuner and he said my timing belt might have skipped a tooth or I have a boost leak. I was leaning towards a cut vacuum line possibly?
Squeeze the connector to remove the plug then remove the 10mm head bolt and pull it out.
Install is the reverse
.
so wait all you did is just replaced cam sensor and it fixed the problem... because every time i turn my AC on idle drops and car dies.. but with the AC off no problems what so ever
ill add to the idle issues!
My car was throwing an IAC code. Car would idle from 400 rpm up to 2300 then fall flat on its face and stall out. After making sure the iac valve moved and some grease. It was fine for a week. Then out of nowhere it was back at it.
I finally bit the bullet and got a new IAC. Just so happened while waiting for FEDEX, i decided to finish installing the meth kit, with the boost by-pass valve. disconnected my boost controller, and after getting distracted for almost an hour. Forgot to hook the hallman boost controller back up, and go to move the car. No problems, no IAC code... Hooked everything back up. IAC code after 5 minutes. Just another thing to watch out for guys!
It is always the last thing we check tho , isnt?
My car was throwing an IAC code. Car would idle from 400 rpm up to 2300 then fall flat on its face and stall out. After making sure the iac valve moved and some grease. It was fine for a week. Then out of nowhere it was back at it.
I finally bit the bullet and got a new IAC. Just so happened while waiting for FEDEX, i decided to finish installing the meth kit, with the boost by-pass valve. disconnected my boost controller, and after getting distracted for almost an hour. Forgot to hook the hallman boost controller back up, and go to move the car. No problems, no IAC code... Hooked everything back up. IAC code after 5 minutes. Just another thing to watch out for guys!
It is always the last thing we check tho , isnt?
yup.. but my car stalled even wit no a/c.. the thing would wana stall taking off lol.. and my idle would bump from 1000 to 2000 and back down on its own..
if ur car isnt stalling without a/c u might just need to adjust the rpm wen the a/c is turned on using evoflash..
if ur car isnt stalling without a/c u might just need to adjust the rpm wen the a/c is turned on using evoflash..
i was actually going to do that, i bought my timing belt wit tensionar and all but never installed it, lazy i guess lol.. only reason i changed the cam sensor is cause it was broken and ended being the reason y my car was running so ****ty.. plus it was a simple 2 min. thing lol..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
newimportowner
Evo General
17
Dec 12, 2011 12:54 PM
