Car stalls EVERYTIME after letting off-- is it batt or alt?
This is going to sound a bit weird but what intake and BOV setup are you running? I had the exact issue with my old eclipse, I chased it down for literally years and eventually found out it was the intake pipe I was running on the car. Some cars, for some reason or another, just do not like the resonance a metal pipe can cause in the intake and the maf can act weird.
My evo is completely fine with a metal intake, but my co-worker had very similar issues (stalling at light, etc.) when he ran an open element filter with a metal intake pipe.
Good luck!
My evo is completely fine with a metal intake, but my co-worker had very similar issues (stalling at light, etc.) when he ran an open element filter with a metal intake pipe.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Woodbridge, VA
which is the iac motor? any pics or part number??My car has ALWAYS had this problem...We adjusted the idle up to keep it from stalling and also adjusted the air idle control valve which made it better(no stalling) but idle still drops down and catches itself then goes back to set idle speed......it is really annoying, but at this point ive learned to live with it...
Things ive tried... plugs, wires,coils,Air idle control valve(adjusted and tried a different one),cleaned PCV valve, checked vaccuum hoses, adjusted idle in tune, battery,
also it seems worse if drop is from above 3000rpm..........
Things ive tried... plugs, wires,coils,Air idle control valve(adjusted and tried a different one),cleaned PCV valve, checked vaccuum hoses, adjusted idle in tune, battery,
also it seems worse if drop is from above 3000rpm..........
The valve in the throttle body and the actual electrical part of the IAC are 2 seperate parts, if you were referring to the throttle body one. I had the IAC motor go bad on my car and sometimes it would stay running, others as soon as I pushed the clutch in it would die on me.
yeh i have a aem wideband and havent really looked.. ill test tomorrow and post what i see
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 592
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From: Woodbridge, VA
This is going to sound a bit weird but what intake and BOV setup are you running? I had the exact issue with my old eclipse, I chased it down for literally years and eventually found out it was the intake pipe I was running on the car. Some cars, for some reason or another, just do not like the resonance a metal pipe can cause in the intake and the maf can act weird.
My evo is completely fine with a metal intake, but my co-worker had very similar issues (stalling at light, etc.) when he ran an open element filter with a metal intake pipe.
Good luck!
My evo is completely fine with a metal intake, but my co-worker had very similar issues (stalling at light, etc.) when he ran an open element filter with a metal intake pipe.
Good luck!
but now i capped off the intake recirculation part and have a buschur uppipe with tial bov and am tuned for vta but apparently i think i got tuned while i had the small pinhole leak and now that i recently changed the line all this is happeneing
Another interesting thing I came across with the idle control actuator. Evo8 ones supposedly have plastic gearing which can strip. Evo9 has metal gearing and are interchangeable
im guessing its the IAC motor, its on your throttle body on the drivers side, a black piece that kinda looks like a nipple is on it. check it first though, cause theyre not cheap, i called autozone and its 330.00 for a new one, so try and find one from a nine here on the forums
This is a strange issue indeed. You're running a tune that worked fine without stall previously. I know you fixed the pinhole leak, and that could cause your BOV to purge faster, which could lead to stall. I'll redo your tune to compensate for the sudden loss of metered air.
Normally, if the IAC fails, you'll have surging idle issues. It's pretty easy to pull and check, though.
I'll send you a new tune in a few.
Some good ideas on here. Keep 'em coming.
Additive: Before pulling the IAC to check it, try the new tune I just sent you.
Normally, if the IAC fails, you'll have surging idle issues. It's pretty easy to pull and check, though.
I'll send you a new tune in a few.
Some good ideas on here. Keep 'em coming.
Additive: Before pulling the IAC to check it, try the new tune I just sent you.
Last edited by MadMsheen; Sep 25, 2010 at 04:47 PM.
Looks like the standard VTA stall. When your BOV wasn't responding as quickly, you weren't running into the extreme rich condition which leads into the negative fuel trims. Once that leak was fixed, you were venting much faster, and that lead to your stall. I'm fixing it.
I'm 99% sure it's your bov. When u had the leak, it was surging. It wouldn't fully open when you let off the pedal so your a/f didn't go to rich. Now that you fixed the leak your bov is venting properly causing your a/f to go super rich causing your car to stall. If you look at your wideband when letting off the pedal, I'm sure it's hitting the 10's or possibly 9's. I know this because I have the same problem only I didn't have a leak at first. I was running an 11 psi spring with my Tial when it called for a 10 psi. It surged with the 11 psi spring under low load/boost so it wouldn't open and run rich on decel. Now that I'm running the 10 psi it stalls like crazy. Don't know if this is good advice or not but go one spring stiffer then what you run now and I'm sure your problem will go away. I'm switching back to the 11 psi spring because it ran fine besides the surge at low boost/load.
Last edited by 05VIII; Sep 25, 2010 at 08:06 PM.