Car stalls EVERYTIME after letting off-- is it batt or alt?
its possibly a combination of several faults on your car. in addition to bov VTA, your idle control valve should not be caked and smelling like fuel; i wouldnt want to see how badly caked the inside of your TB is then. also please dont stick that crappy ICV back in your TB, give it a good cleaning!!!!
good way to check if your ICV is good is removing it (but keep it plugged in) then turn your ignition to "power" (dont start it).... you should hear it clicking. if you dont, its time for a new one.
good way to check if your ICV is good is removing it (but keep it plugged in) then turn your ignition to "power" (dont start it).... you should hear it clicking. if you dont, its time for a new one.
You can easily test and adjust with evoscan..
1.have car idling
2. Make sure you have a more recent version of evoscan.there will be a button on the right side to actuate it.
3.you will hear the idle drop once you click to actuate it, or if it is really out of adjustment the car will stall.
4. When actuated car should idle around 800-850rpm.
5.if it stalls adjust the screw on the valve and repeat the process until you get to the 800-850 range
1.have car idling
2. Make sure you have a more recent version of evoscan.there will be a button on the right side to actuate it.
3.you will hear the idle drop once you click to actuate it, or if it is really out of adjustment the car will stall.
4. When actuated car should idle around 800-850rpm.
5.if it stalls adjust the screw on the valve and repeat the process until you get to the 800-850 range
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: Woodbridge, VA
I'm 99% sure it's your bov. When u had the leak, it was surging. It wouldn't fully open when you let off the pedal so your a/f didn't go to rich. Now that you fixed the leak your bov is venting properly causing your a/f to go super rich causing your car to stall. If you look at your wideband when letting off the pedal, I'm sure it's hitting the 10's or possibly 9's. I know this because I have the same problem only I didn't have a leak at first. I was running an 11 psi spring with my Tial when it called for a 10 psi. It surged with the 11 psi spring under low load/boost so it wouldn't open and run rich on decel. Now that I'm running the 10 psi it stalls like crazy. Don't know if this is good advice or not but go one spring stiffer then what you run now and I'm sure your problem will go away. I'm switching back to the 11 psi spring because it ran fine besides the surge at low boost/load.
its possibly a combination of several faults on your car. in addition to bov VTA, your idle control valve should not be caked and smelling like fuel; i wouldnt want to see how badly caked the inside of your TB is then. also please dont stick that crappy ICV back in your TB, give it a good cleaning!!!!
good way to check if your ICV is good is removing it (but keep it plugged in) then turn your ignition to "power" (dont start it).... you should hear it clicking. if you dont, its time for a new one.
good way to check if your ICV is good is removing it (but keep it plugged in) then turn your ignition to "power" (dont start it).... you should hear it clicking. if you dont, its time for a new one.
You can easily test and adjust with evoscan..
1.have car idling
2. Make sure you have a more recent version of evoscan.there will be a button on the right side to actuate it.
3.you will hear the idle drop once you click to actuate it, or if it is really out of adjustment the car will stall.
4. When actuated car should idle around 800-850rpm.
5.if it stalls adjust the screw on the valve and repeat the process until you get to the 800-850 range
1.have car idling
2. Make sure you have a more recent version of evoscan.there will be a button on the right side to actuate it.
3.you will hear the idle drop once you click to actuate it, or if it is really out of adjustment the car will stall.
4. When actuated car should idle around 800-850rpm.
5.if it stalls adjust the screw on the valve and repeat the process until you get to the 800-850 range
thanks
i dont want to get used to this issue.. it sucks and embarassing at times
To check your spring you have to take the top portion off of the bov. Take all the Allen screws on the top off but becareful because the spring in there is compressed. Once removed just look to see what color spring you have. 10 psi will be unpainted. 11 psi is pink. Not sure the color on the other springs but if you go to tials website they have a chart that shows what springs to run according to your inhg at idle and tells your the spring color.
I just went back to the 11 psi spring yesterday (one spring above what my car calls for according to inhg at idle) and my stalling issues are fully gone. Again, I don't know if this is good advice or how much harm the little surge I get will cause but it's working great for me.
I just went back to the 11 psi spring yesterday (one spring above what my car calls for according to inhg at idle) and my stalling issues are fully gone. Again, I don't know if this is good advice or how much harm the little surge I get will cause but it's working great for me.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: Woodbridge, VA
To check your spring you have to take the top portion off of the bov. Take all the Allen screws on the top off but becareful because the spring in there is compressed. Once removed just look to see what color spring you have. 10 psi will be unpainted. 11 psi is pink. Not sure the color on the other springs but if you go to tials website they have a chart that shows what springs to run according to your inhg at idle and tells your the spring color.
I just went back to the 11 psi spring yesterday (one spring above what my car calls for according to inhg at idle) and my stalling issues are fully gone. Again, I don't know if this is good advice or how much harm the little surge I get will cause but it's working great for me.
I just went back to the 11 psi spring yesterday (one spring above what my car calls for according to inhg at idle) and my stalling issues are fully gone. Again, I don't know if this is good advice or how much harm the little surge I get will cause but it's working great for me.
grr??
Do you even know if you have the right spring for your inhg at idle? What color is it exactly? Black or unpainted? There's a pretty big difference in both of them. Make sure you got the right spring first accordin to tials chart. If you do then go ahead and try one up, I know that will fix your proble
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Miami Lakes
Ive been having the same exact issues. Stock motor/turbo, BC272 cams, HKS/custom intake, synapse bov, MAS not MAF, hard pipes, and Ive checked my IAC (clean). I get the gas smell. The hot/humid months have exaggerated the problem. I will get in touch with my tuner and see if some of these suggestions help, thanks.
Testing the IAC is easy -
Unscrew the screws holding it to the throttle body
Leave the electrical plugged in but pull the IAC out of the throttle body so you can see the inner part of it
Have someone get in your car and turn it to ON, not start it as you hold it
The center piston will move in and out and click very loudly. If it moves, it's good. Also make sure the o-ring is sitting in the groove. It isn't a standard o-ring, it's a very small thin one. When I lost my o-ring I had similar problems. When my IAC died I had surging, the car would just rev from 1-2k, drop down to 1k, rev back up, like I was trying to race everyone, pretty embarrassing when it happens.
Unscrew the screws holding it to the throttle body
Leave the electrical plugged in but pull the IAC out of the throttle body so you can see the inner part of it
Have someone get in your car and turn it to ON, not start it as you hold it
The center piston will move in and out and click very loudly. If it moves, it's good. Also make sure the o-ring is sitting in the groove. It isn't a standard o-ring, it's a very small thin one. When I lost my o-ring I had similar problems. When my IAC died I had surging, the car would just rev from 1-2k, drop down to 1k, rev back up, like I was trying to race everyone, pretty embarrassing when it happens.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: Woodbridge, VA
Ive been having the same exact issues. Stock motor/turbo, BC272 cams, HKS/custom intake, synapse bov, MAS not MAF, hard pipes, and Ive checked my IAC (clean). I get the gas smell. The hot/humid months have exaggerated the problem. I will get in touch with my tuner and see if some of these suggestions help, thanks.
yea its tough mines was all in vta tune
Testing the IAC is easy -
Unscrew the screws holding it to the throttle body
Leave the electrical plugged in but pull the IAC out of the throttle body so you can see the inner part of it
Have someone get in your car and turn it to ON, not start it as you hold it
The center piston will move in and out and click very loudly. If it moves, it's good. Also make sure the o-ring is sitting in the groove. It isn't a standard o-ring, it's a very small thin one. When I lost my o-ring I had similar problems. When my IAC died I had surging, the car would just rev from 1-2k, drop down to 1k, rev back up, like I was trying to race everyone, pretty embarrassing when it happens.
Unscrew the screws holding it to the throttle body
Leave the electrical plugged in but pull the IAC out of the throttle body so you can see the inner part of it
Have someone get in your car and turn it to ON, not start it as you hold it
The center piston will move in and out and click very loudly. If it moves, it's good. Also make sure the o-ring is sitting in the groove. It isn't a standard o-ring, it's a very small thin one. When I lost my o-ring I had similar problems. When my IAC died I had surging, the car would just rev from 1-2k, drop down to 1k, rev back up, like I was trying to race everyone, pretty embarrassing when it happens.
yea i tired it still clicks and "piston" moves
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: Woodbridge, VA
UPDATE: finally figured it out.. it was all in the VTA tune.. appearently i had a leak in my tial bov line when i was tuned for VTA and when i fixed the boost leak it through everything off within the idle and afr. so just got my tuner to adjust and test a few things and now im good.. i hope 