I do "not" have the manual for my car and i searched without success. My fuel level doesn't read properly (reads under), and that i confirmed with numerous fill up's.

I'd like to test my fuel sending unit resistance this week but not sure what the range should be when empty and full. Anyone?

thanks in advance,
dj

 

bump

 

I know someone out there has to have it. The workshop manual I've found to be pretty much worthless for real in depth trouble shooting. I just looked through it and only found pictures of each part in the fuel system.

 

bump

 

Measured between pins #1 and #2 on the harness connector on the pump:

Full...2 ohms +/- 1 ohm
Empty...36.4 ohms +/- 1 ohm

Hope this helps

 

Primary:
Full - 6.5 (+/- 1) OHM
Empty - 41.2 (+/- 1) OHM

Secondary:
Full - 6.5 (+/- 1) OHM
Empty - 78.8 (+/- 1) OHM

Thus, between the two it is looking for 13 Ohms when full and 120 Ohms when empty.

 

Where did you get those values? I looked them up in the factory Shop Service Manual(s) I purchased from Mitsubishi when I bought the car. The values I read are significantly different. Sorry, I see you posted both the primary and secondary connector values. My fault. But, there's still a difference. Did I misread the manual? Hate to give someone bad info. What source did you use? I'll recheck my manual.

 

Well darn, I'll recheck too. What year is your manual?

 

super awesome, gonna rip into my fuel assembly this Thursday or Friday and test it out.

thanks again

 

2004 Lancer Evolution Service Manual (2 volumes)

Re: Volume 2, Page 54A-75

 

I wish I could remember what my testing results I had when I ripped into this. Make sure you test both with a variety of cases. How far off are you reading? In which direction? The light comes on but you're sputtering or the light never comes on but you run out of gas? You run out of gas at 1/4 a tank? All of those could help us pinpoint the problem before ripping into it. If you are reading say 1/4 tank but you're running out of gas, your siphon isn't working right more than likely and can be tested by pulling the passenger side float and leaving pump assembly in tact. If you give us more details we can help diagnose the problem further to help you out I went round and round with fuel level issues for a few months, it's soooo frustrating

 

My reading is messed the hell up. Here are some problems.

. Everytime i start my car its different.
. Takes forever to get the actual reading of the fuel UNLESS its full, shows full right away.
. I'll park the car with 3/4 tank. come back in 3 hours start and its now 25% lower (25% from 3/4)
. When i get on the highway usually i lose about 25% to as much as 40% of a quarter until i get off the highway (driving conditions dont matter)
. Today for example, leaving work i had 3/4 tank, and on highway dropped HALF A quarter tank [until i got off the highway it went up]
. Sometimes when i WOT it will either drop heavy or i've even seen it go back up

In conclusion it just seems to be all over the damn place. After looking at the manual i've noticed that there's two pumps, one with a gauge and the main one with sending unit, and im pretty sure something down there isnt working right.

dj

 

Found the Problem!!!

Secondary fuel level sensor is a crapper ;/
Reads under when full, and reads under when empty... boo!
But found one on evom, and gonna install it this coming week when it arrives.

Thanks to everyone for the ohm range #'s.

Dj

 

Any way our stock gauge could be used with a 0 ohms empty, 90 ohms full sending unit? Could resistors be used or reversal of polarity?

 

Anyone have any ideas on this? I'm using a fuel cell with a GM sending unit and would really like to ditch the a/m gauge and get the the GM unit to work with the factory gauge.