i have an evo 9 with 55k i installed a kevlar timing belt.it jumped 1-2 teeth on the crank on shut off. while tring to diagnos the pproblem the car was cranked a decent amount.am i screwed? it sounds ok cranking minus the not starting thing(only cyl 1 fires).how can i keep this from happening again? will replacing the timing belt tensioner with a new oem 1 fix it? i did not replace that because the book said i did not need to yet.

 

I believe alot of people replace their tensioners when performing their 60k service but I dont think it will solve the problem you had. Your issue sounds similar to what happend to me. I installed my timing belt and didn't tension it correctly which caused mine to slip two teeth. After removing my belt and retensioning it my cars been running like a champ ever since.

 

You need to take your timing belt back apart, set it back on tdc, re-install your timing belt, and turn 2-3 full rotation to make sure everything lines up before you crank up the car. G/l

 

Most people don't have a clue on how to set the two tensioners on the Evo. Most people get close and luck out for about 50k miles or so.

Others completely muck it up and either...
-ruin the auto tensioner in the process (then blame mitsubishi)
or
-don't ever get it set right, (then it jumps a tooth) or (it's too tight and ruins the oil pump)

I see a lot of the two above mentioned issues. If you've done timing belts on other Japanese cars and think it's the same process for the Evo, you'll mess it up.

Take it to someone who knows, or do the research to do it right.

...btw, you probably have a bent valve.

 

Besides lining up all the marks, setting the tension right is the most important procedure for replacing the timing belt, same goes for the balancing shaft belt but that one is a lot easier.

 

This. Either take it to someone who is familiar with them, or if u go it yourself, after getting it back together ensuring tension is correct and riming marks are all correct do a compression test and a leakdown test to figure if you've got a bent valve

 

I will most likely be diy this 1.I fallowed the service manuel. Im 95% sure I did it correctly.not sure if it was the kevlar belt or the tensioner with the belt.as for balance shaft belt I removed my balance shafts along with this job and install the ams race balance shaft removal kit.wat r my odds I didnt bend a valve?

 

Mine jumped some teeth when I was cranking and I think it was due to one of the cam bearings being very, very worn - just putting it back together now. Something to check, I had to change the head.

 

If you could run a leakdown test it will tell you if any valve is bent. If not, put the belt back properly. I would even use red locktite on the tensioner pulley.
Good luck.

 

The tensioner pulley was set way too loose. The pulley needs to be set so that the pin in the tensioner body and in the plunger is loose. While making this adjustment if you don't have a tool installed that locks the cam sprockets the belt often will jump one or two teeth at the crank without you noticing it.

 

I rented the mitsu tools to do the job and fallowed the service manual minus taking the valve cover off..ill be working on this fri ill fill u guys in as to what I find

 

This what the factory service manual says about timing belt tension but it doesn't quite make sense to me. If the auto-tensioner should extend 0.15" when the pin is pulled how can it have moved freely before ? Comments please......

"Check that the wire (inserted in the auto-tensioner when it was installed) can be moved freely. If the wire can be pulled freely, the belt tensioner is adjusted properly. Remove the wire. Check that the auto-tensioner rod extends by the specified amount.

Standard value: 3.8 - 4.5 mm (0.15 - 0.18 inch)"