car won't start
Dec 10, 2010, 08:10 AM
#31
pretty much all parts you buy from the dealer are marked up pretty bad, so sounds about right lol, I used to work at a mits dealer and got my parts for my car for almost half the price of what everyone else paid. Thats the bad thing about having an evo.
Dec 10, 2010, 09:21 AM
#32
Yea, there was no way I was going to pay that much for a starter.
The Auto guy said he managed to find one from another auto shop in a nearby city for $260 which is around what I expected to pay.
This whole ordeal has made me decide that I need to buy some smaller jacks or a ramp to be able to get underneath the car.
The Auto guy said he managed to find one from another auto shop in a nearby city for $260 which is around what I expected to pay.
This whole ordeal has made me decide that I need to buy some smaller jacks or a ramp to be able to get underneath the car.
Dec 10, 2010, 09:25 AM
#33
You can replace the starter, buy a full set of tools, a jack, jack stands, a creeper, and pay a car payment for $624 let alone the additional labor a mechanic would charge. With the undertray off the starter probably takes what...1 hour maybe for a beginner? They're only $75 on ebay and in the mean time you can source a new one and learn to work on your car...not sure how long you've had your Evo but every Evo owner should know how to work on their own car because let's face it...well...they break 
...but seriously its very easy and you should def learn to do this on your own
Dec 10, 2010, 09:36 AM
#34
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Holy cow $624 for a starter? It's probably not a reman but still.
STM has them for $200 OEM reman. http://streettunedmotorsports.com/pa...mitsubishi.htm
STM has them for $200 OEM reman. http://streettunedmotorsports.com/pa...mitsubishi.htm
Dec 10, 2010, 01:05 PM
#36
Yea, it was the starter. But the starter wasn't bad. I guess when I asked the Auto guy yesterday if he looked at the wires and he said he checked it out, that means he glanced at the battery and whatnot.
The problem was a loose bolt on the positive connection and a build up of corrosion over time.
I apparently also had a blown fuse that made it so they could not talk to the ECU with a computer. When they did, they pulled the CEL and it was a history code of Crank Ref Sensor.
They also found a "vaccuum line on the intake that goes to a solenoid" that was loose and not connected. I asked him if it was the recirculating valve line and he said it was not.
Lesson learned I guess. I need to buy a damn ramp or jack or something to get this car picked up so I can do these shenanigans myself.
The problem was a loose bolt on the positive connection and a build up of corrosion over time.
I apparently also had a blown fuse that made it so they could not talk to the ECU with a computer. When they did, they pulled the CEL and it was a history code of Crank Ref Sensor.
They also found a "vaccuum line on the intake that goes to a solenoid" that was loose and not connected. I asked him if it was the recirculating valve line and he said it was not.
Lesson learned I guess. I need to buy a damn ramp or jack or something to get this car picked up so I can do these shenanigans myself.
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