Launching the Evo
hey for ****s and giggles i went out just now and logged a pull on my race map to third... as it shows i dont slip the clutch i just release it... you can see cause right after i hit the limiter i bog... if you slip the clutch you dont bog because you roll and the limiter goes away before your clutch engages enough to load the motor.
the proof is in the pudding my friends... still no leaks... still drives fine... still goes like hell... dont listen to these yahoo's and blow your clutch.
oh and for the record.. this is on a factory clutch, ss upper clutch line, no restrictor, new w rated 180 a a tires, and ate dot4 racing brake fluid so my engagement is and grip are no joke.
if all that wont break the drivetrain what you have probably wont have an issue either.
the proof is in the pudding my friends... still no leaks... still drives fine... still goes like hell... dont listen to these yahoo's and blow your clutch.
oh and for the record.. this is on a factory clutch, ss upper clutch line, no restrictor, new w rated 180 a a tires, and ate dot4 racing brake fluid so my engagement is and grip are no joke.
if all that wont break the drivetrain what you have probably wont have an issue either.
Launching is simple.
Step 1: Stop
Step 2: Push in the clutch
Step 3: Put the car in first gear
Step 4: Let the clutch out to find where it engages and hold it just before that (it'll make it easier to slip/dump)
Step 5: Floor the gas, and hold it to the floor. You will start bouncing off the 2-step at 5000-5500rpm and build boost.
Step 6: DO NOT let off the gas pedal at ALL, slip out the clutch until you feel it grab, then let go.
Step 7: DO NOT let off of the gas pedal until you shift to 2nd gear. The gas pedal should be held to the floor from the beginning until you shift to 2nd.
Step 8: Continue shifting gears accordingly.
that's how i've always done it, and it was good enough to get me and my basically stock IX MR to 12.82 @ 107.41 with only a cat back, no tune, no other power adders, a boost leak, and a possibly slipping stock clutch. I've launched that way more times than I can count, and i'm at 161,000 miles and still going strong. I'd advise this method unless the EVO X 5 speed is somehow weaker than the IX 6 speed lol
you have to launch at the highest rpm the engine will let you to get the best time possible. EVO's actually launch best at ~6000rpm because at 5000rpm unless you get it just right, the car wants to bog. anything lower than that and you'll have to really slip the clutch to keep it from bogging which just burns the clutch up, and you leave the line slow as hell.
Step 1: Stop
Step 2: Push in the clutch
Step 3: Put the car in first gear
Step 4: Let the clutch out to find where it engages and hold it just before that (it'll make it easier to slip/dump)
Step 5: Floor the gas, and hold it to the floor. You will start bouncing off the 2-step at 5000-5500rpm and build boost.
Step 6: DO NOT let off the gas pedal at ALL, slip out the clutch until you feel it grab, then let go.
Step 7: DO NOT let off of the gas pedal until you shift to 2nd gear. The gas pedal should be held to the floor from the beginning until you shift to 2nd.
Step 8: Continue shifting gears accordingly.
that's how i've always done it, and it was good enough to get me and my basically stock IX MR to 12.82 @ 107.41 with only a cat back, no tune, no other power adders, a boost leak, and a possibly slipping stock clutch. I've launched that way more times than I can count, and i'm at 161,000 miles and still going strong. I'd advise this method unless the EVO X 5 speed is somehow weaker than the IX 6 speed lol
you have to launch at the highest rpm the engine will let you to get the best time possible. EVO's actually launch best at ~6000rpm because at 5000rpm unless you get it just right, the car wants to bog. anything lower than that and you'll have to really slip the clutch to keep it from bogging which just burns the clutch up, and you leave the line slow as hell.
/thread
^
Theres no reason for you to hold the Ebrake up in an Evo. Front wheel drive yes. The reason for that is to get the rear of the car squatted already so when the FRONT wheel drive goes to lift up when you floor it, the rear of the car is already loaded and you dont just bounce the car on the rear suspension...
Being were awd, the rear drive wheels compensate by actually moving, instead of just being dragged by the front ones..
Theres no reason for you to hold the Ebrake up in an Evo. Front wheel drive yes. The reason for that is to get the rear of the car squatted already so when the FRONT wheel drive goes to lift up when you floor it, the rear of the car is already loaded and you dont just bounce the car on the rear suspension...
Being were awd, the rear drive wheels compensate by actually moving, instead of just being dragged by the front ones..
If you hold the clutch in and rev your burning it up. Press the acclerator till it bounces press the clutch in quick and shift try releasing the clutch quick but not so quick do the clutch can catch the trans... beware evo transmissions are not cheap
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Theres no reason for you to hold the Ebrake up in an Evo. Front wheel drive yes. The reason for that is to get the rear of the car squatted already so when the FRONT wheel drive goes to lift up when you floor it, the rear of the car is already loaded and you dont just bounce the car on the rear suspension...
Being were awd, the rear drive wheels compensate by actually moving, instead of just being dragged by the front ones..
Theres no reason for you to hold the Ebrake up in an Evo. Front wheel drive yes. The reason for that is to get the rear of the car squatted already so when the FRONT wheel drive goes to lift up when you floor it, the rear of the car is already loaded and you dont just bounce the car on the rear suspension...
Being were awd, the rear drive wheels compensate by actually moving, instead of just being dragged by the front ones..
you mean in a fwd car?
If you look at 100% of the built hondas etc.. they have the slanted lever where the Ebrake would be.. It sticks up vertical, so all the do is slam that HUGE level either forward or backward and thats the ebrake. No button to hold or anything.. Ill try finding a picture for ya..
edit: heres what im talking about. Taken from my buddies facebook of his car. 10 second all motor honda. all hes gotta do at the track is pull the giant handle backwards and that releases the ebrake... YET AGAIN, his car is FWD!!!
Last edited by EvolutionVIIIrs; Feb 13, 2011 at 08:14 PM.
Now I know why Shepard and Tre stay so busy.
If you dont want or can afford to break then dont launch. It takes practice (takes about a day or two) and its better to do it behind a wharehouse then trying it at a drag strip for the first time. Its hard for me to explain, but you want to slip the clutch until it catches then guickly let off the clutch to get moving. Dumping the clutch will cause drivetrain shock and can lead to broken parts. Just take your time and I will say becarful how much you slip it if you're still running the stock clutch. I learned launching my evo on my twin so I can't comment on the do's and dont's on the stock clutch
If you dont want or can afford to break then dont launch. It takes practice (takes about a day or two) and its better to do it behind a wharehouse then trying it at a drag strip for the first time. Its hard for me to explain, but you want to slip the clutch until it catches then guickly let off the clutch to get moving. Dumping the clutch will cause drivetrain shock and can lead to broken parts. Just take your time and I will say becarful how much you slip it if you're still running the stock clutch. I learned launching my evo on my twin so I can't comment on the do's and dont's on the stock clutch
Last edited by TIGERJC; Feb 14, 2011 at 10:46 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Florida / Poland
The method posted by ODUB is most correct on a flat level surface which is what 99% of drag races are done on. The thing is, if you were to preload the drive train as mentioned in step 4 it should not make a difference if you kick the clutch back in and then just let off in a fluid motion from the floor. As long as the drive train/moving parts are preloaded at launch it is in essence the same. If you are on a surface with a slight grade in it, you will have to release the clutch until it just begins to catch and slip it. The whole purpose of kicking the clutch back in after everything is preloaded is to make things less of a hassle for the driver, not damage the drivetrain, and minimizing the amount the clutch is slipped. Correct me if there is something wrong with my theory. I still drive a FWD car and have pretty much mastered launching it. I'm just using what I know from experience and hope to get into an Evo asap.
Now I know why Shepard and Tre stay so busy.
If you dont want or can afford to break then dont launch. It takes practice (takes about a day or two) and its better to do it behind a wharehouse then trying it at a drag strip for the first time. Its hard for me to explain, but you want to slip the clutch until it catches then guickly let off the clutch to get moving. Dumping the clutch will cause drivetrain shock and can lead to broken parts. Just take your time and I will say becarful how much you slip it if you're still running the stock clutch. I learned launching my evo on my twin so I can't comment on the do's and dont's on the stock clutch
If you dont want or can afford to break then dont launch. It takes practice (takes about a day or two) and its better to do it behind a wharehouse then trying it at a drag strip for the first time. Its hard for me to explain, but you want to slip the clutch until it catches then guickly let off the clutch to get moving. Dumping the clutch will cause drivetrain shock and can lead to broken parts. Just take your time and I will say becarful how much you slip it if you're still running the stock clutch. I learned launching my evo on my twin so I can't comment on the do's and dont's on the stock clutch
