Everything I've learned after 4+ years with my Evo
Feb 16, 2011, 08:38 PM
#91
you learned all that in 4 years and i learned this today......DONT TRUST EVERYTHING THAT GETS STICKIED.......almost everything wrote was disagreed on. EVERYONE WRites nice write up but i disagree on this..... everytime its something different that people disagree on . at the end your left with like 2-4 thing that you stated that people dont disagree on
...i really think that getting a boost leak tester shouldve been added . and YOU pick HKS cams to list over all the rest... wow great stickie.....
...i really think that getting a boost leak tester shouldve been added . and YOU pick HKS cams to list over all the rest... wow great stickie.....
Last edited by djikonatx; Feb 16, 2011 at 08:44 PM.
Feb 16, 2011, 09:42 PM
#92
Feb 16, 2011, 10:59 PM
#94
Arghh...i have a set of HKS 272's that i was waiting to put on after this winter... and when i read this i was thinking to myself... that there not bad cams... but seeing others talk bad and complain about them makes me think twice. The only reason i choice these cams was because i heard these cams and very quiet... if this is true then i will stick too these cams... someone fill me in?
Feb 17, 2011, 01:03 AM
#95
Arghh...i have a set of HKS 272's that i was waiting to put on after this winter... and when i read this i was thinking to myself... that there not bad cams... but seeing others talk bad and complain about them makes me think twice. The only reason i choice these cams was because i heard these cams and very quiet... if this is true then i will stick too these cams... someone fill me in?
Feb 17, 2011, 07:19 AM
#97
These cams used to be the best but their is much better choices now. In fact HKS revamped their cams recently, I know with the HKS Turbo Kit as well. Look into GSC cams, S2's would make you happy.
Arghh...i have a set of HKS 272's that i was waiting to put on after this winter... and when i read this i was thinking to myself... that there not bad cams... but seeing others talk bad and complain about them makes me think twice. The only reason i choice these cams was because i heard these cams and very quiet... if this is true then i will stick too these cams... someone fill me in?
Feb 17, 2011, 11:49 AM
#99
Arghh...i have a set of HKS 272's that i was waiting to put on after this winter... and when i read this i was thinking to myself... that there not bad cams... but seeing others talk bad and complain about them makes me think twice. The only reason i choice these cams was because i heard these cams and very quiet... if this is true then i will stick too these cams... someone fill me in?
As far as Mobile 1 goes, I have been running a GT35R for around 80k miles now and it is still running fine. I try to stick with the 10w30 high mileage blend since I have 98k on the car now. I can't justify the price of AMSOIL, when Mobile 1 seems to be doing just fine. When I build my engine, I will probably just start with the high mileage blend and leave it there.
Feb 17, 2011, 12:05 PM
#100
I have HKS 272s and they work fine for my setup. They are easy on valve springs because they have stock cam lift, but they sacrifice a bit of power to the other cams out there. I could probably get another 50hp just by switching my cams and intake manifold, but I am happy with where my car is on the stock block anyway.
As far as Mobile 1 goes, I have been running a GT35R for around 80k miles now and it is still running fine. I try to stick with the 10w30 high mileage blend since I have 98k on the car now. I can't justify the price of AMSOIL, when Mobile 1 seems to be doing just fine. When I build my engine, I will probably just start with the high mileage blend and leave it there.
As far as Mobile 1 goes, I have been running a GT35R for around 80k miles now and it is still running fine. I try to stick with the 10w30 high mileage blend since I have 98k on the car now. I can't justify the price of AMSOIL, when Mobile 1 seems to be doing just fine. When I build my engine, I will probably just start with the high mileage blend and leave it there.
You would get an easy 50WHP across the board and faster spool. It isn't that expensive of a mod you should do it. Seriously.
Feb 17, 2011, 11:48 PM
#103
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I certainly wouldn't consider it a Bible... it's what I've learned. Other people will have other (possibly conflicting) viewpoints as well. That's to be expected. Feel free to elaborate on what specifically is entertaining to you.
Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump ($80) - Needed to support more airflow than stock
Tactrix Openport 2.0 ($170) - Needed to datalog the car and flash the ECU
Innovate LC-1 w/ Gauge ($160) - Needed to log Air:Fuel Ratio
Omni 4-BAR MAP Sensor ($100) - Needed to log Boost
#65 boost pill ($15) - Needed to run more than 20psi on the stock boost solenoid
QTP Downpipe w/ Cutout ($475) - Gives the performance benefit of a full exhaust, with the ability to keep it quiet
As far as tuning the car with the cutout open, there's nothing stopping you from logging & tuning with the cutout closed as well. Those two can be part of the same tune. You see, the ECU has 3D maps for fuel & timing. That means that, for a variety of situations (low boost, high boost, low RPM, high RPM, or any combination) you can input different values for fuel and timing. Since cutout open vs. cutout closed will be putting you into different parts of that 3D map, a single tune can be safe for either situation. We also have the ability to run a second set of maps using the Tephra ROM. I run a single tune that is safe for meth off cutout open, meth off cutout closed, meth on cutout open, meth on cutout closed.
Check out badhabit90's post further explaining the story of Mobil 1. I know several master engine builders that are much older than I am who have specifically told me that they will only use motor oils that are high in ZDDP because when you pull apart 100 motors a year, you get a feel for which ones were protected better than others.
Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump ($80) - Needed to support more airflow than stock
Tactrix Openport 2.0 ($170) - Needed to datalog the car and flash the ECU
Innovate LC-1 w/ Gauge ($160) - Needed to log Air:Fuel Ratio
Omni 4-BAR MAP Sensor ($100) - Needed to log Boost
#65 boost pill ($15) - Needed to run more than 20psi on the stock boost solenoid
QTP Downpipe w/ Cutout ($475) - Gives the performance benefit of a full exhaust, with the ability to keep it quiet
As far as tuning the car with the cutout open, there's nothing stopping you from logging & tuning with the cutout closed as well. Those two can be part of the same tune. You see, the ECU has 3D maps for fuel & timing. That means that, for a variety of situations (low boost, high boost, low RPM, high RPM, or any combination) you can input different values for fuel and timing. Since cutout open vs. cutout closed will be putting you into different parts of that 3D map, a single tune can be safe for either situation. We also have the ability to run a second set of maps using the Tephra ROM. I run a single tune that is safe for meth off cutout open, meth off cutout closed, meth on cutout open, meth on cutout closed.
Check out badhabit90's post further explaining the story of Mobil 1. I know several master engine builders that are much older than I am who have specifically told me that they will only use motor oils that are high in ZDDP because when you pull apart 100 motors a year, you get a feel for which ones were protected better than others.
Feb 18, 2011, 12:12 AM
#104
100 LOAD = 0psi.
Anything past 100 load is boost pressure. Lets say we have a car thats hitting 300 load (peak boost).. It hits that load then it slowly drops down. By redline it may be around 250-260.
So you tune those areas of the map.. Now if you turn the boost up, maybe the cars going to hit 350 load or higher, then it would drop off to around 300 load or so at redline..
you can split the map and adjust each section of it for more/less boost like that.
Last edited by tscompusa2; Feb 18, 2011 at 03:40 AM.
