I feel it's actually safer to use a single map for different boost levels, as long as you're not also changing the octane of the fuel you're using at the same time (ie. I would use 1 map for doing a 22psi pump gas AND 25psi pump gas tune. I would not use one map for doing a 22psi pump gas AND 25psi race gas tune. That would be dangerous)

That's really the benefit of having 3D maps... to be able to say "what does this tune do at 20psi? At 23psi? At 28psi?" and then making sure it's safe, no-matter what.

As long as you're not using one map for different fuel octanes (different fuel octanes should, without a doubt, be in different maps), then I see added effort as being the downside to using one map for different boost/load levels.

 

race gas / e85 maps usually can have the same timing at any boost level so in a scenario like that
it would be easy to map the timing map for whatever timing you want then adjust the fuel map
to be universal.. but i agree on the single map things in general.

i just like to stretch my tuning between the 2 main loads hit at WOT the peak load and the redline load
and go from there and adjust each rpm axis accordingly, that seems to give full control over the vehicle
so if it wanders off to a different cell each pull you're covered.

 

Alt map for me = safety net for getting home from longer auto-x trips. Out of E-85, just fill up with pump and flip a switch.

 

+1



Don't use Mobil 1. It's a factory fill for its emissions benefits, not its engine protection. FP voids warranties of people that use Mobil 1. Use AMSOIL, ENEOS, or any other high-performance, high-protection oil

For most people, Mobile 1 is fine. YES, if you have a FP turbo, then use what they tell you. If your worried about the low amount of ZDPP in regular Mobile1, then use the High mileage or Extended performance, as they have more.

Avoid the ACT Xtreme Street Clutch. Sure, it can hold a lot of power for a single-disk clutch, but nearly every owner complains of lock-out issues, especially high RPM lockouts. Either stick to a Street Disc or go for a Twin Disk.

Totally incorrect. Anyone that has lock-out issues, doesnt have their clutch adjusted correctly. I (and many others) have ACT clutches and shifts at 8K are butter. Also, an ACT clutch is a LOT better then a exedy twin disc when it comes to daily driving.

Before you buy a full turbo-back exhaust, consider running just a downpipe and cutout with the stock catback. Some people want the look/sound of a full TBE, but the sound CAN get annoying after a year or two, especially if it's always getting you pulled over. Not to mention the cutout will likely perform a bit better. In fact, now that I've switched back from a full TBE to just a downpipe and a cut-out, I consider this to be the best mod I've done.

I feel this is not good info. A full TBE is the best choice, unless your trying to be stealth. The reason: Because one tune cant be optimized for both cut-out closed and cut-out open, only for one of them. When running a Full TBE, the tune is always optimized, because the hardware doesnt change at the flip of a switch.

The stock boost solenoid is awesome. I still use it today, running 30+ psi. All you need is a more restrictive pill (#65) before the wastegate, and some patience and attention to detail with the tune. It holds boost better than any MBC that I've run, and you don't have to buy anything beyond a piece of aluminum rod and a drill bit.

Coming from the guy that taught everyone to use "a piece of aluminum rod and a drill bit", Id like to say that the stock boost control solenoid is NOT the best option. Both, a good, quality MBC or a 3port is much, much better.

You can do a lot with a little in the Evo world. If I had to start over from stock, and I only had $1000 to spend, I would get (in this order):

Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump ($80) - Needed to support more airflow than stock
Tactrix Openport 2.0 ($170) - Needed to datalog the car and flash the ECU
Innovate LC-1 w/ Gauge ($160) - Needed to log Air:Fuel Ratio
Omni 4-BAR MAP Sensor ($100) - Needed to log Boost
#65 boost pill ($15) - Needed to run more than 20psi on the stock boost solenoid
QTP Downpipe w/ Cutout ($475) - Gives the performance benefit of a full exhaust, with the ability to keep it quiet

IMHO, thats a horrible way for a new EVO person to spend a $1000. They will have a car that desperately needs to be tuned, but since they are new, they probably cant tune it themselves quite yet.

A much better way to spend the first $1000 would be:

FOR PEOPLE THAT CANT/DONT WANT TO TUNE

-Walbro ($80)
-MBC ($80) OR GM 3port+OMNI MAP ($170)
-Full TBE ($150-$700)
-Custom tune ($150-$500)

FOR SELF TUNERS

-Walbro ($80)
-MBC ($80)
-LC1 ($160)
-Tactrix 1.3U cable ($130)
-OMNI Map ($100)
-Full TBE ($150-$700)

OR

-Walbro ($80)
-LC1 ($160)
-Tactrix 1.3U cable ($130)
-OMNI Map ($100)
-GM 3port ($70)
-Full TBE ($150-$700

 

Thanks for sharing man definitely will help alot of people out.

 

For most people or for most modified Evo's? It's easily arguable that a non-stock Evo would justify an upgrade beyond the basic Mobil 1 formula. The point is, be aware of why it's the factory-fill (emissions).

Sorry, the deck is stacked against you on this one. Even David Buschur agrees:

Quote: skatermsmn
Just got back from the track and could even break into the 11's because of the lockout issue.

Quote: gsrboi80
ACT Clutch Lockout Member #1 here. Gonna use it for target practice once it comes out. Adjusted every which way from Sunday no help. Mine seems to be about 7800 and up anything below that it'll shift

Quote: BossEvoVIII
Im gunna have to agree. I hate my ACT with a passion, Never again will I even consider them for my evo.

Quote: evokid511
dude i no exactly what u mean!!!! have everything youve done but you got it a little better you get locked out in 4th only i get locked out of EVERY gear if i go above 5.5k!!! i hate my act!!!

Quote: RevMoto
Whomever says act works great doesn't know how to shift fast enough. I have had the same clutch on both of my Evo's and to no surprise I get lock out in every gear. ACT is crap, end of story.

Quote: Macaroni
I have everything. ACT 6 puck sprung, Blox front motor mount, SS clutch line, and shifter bushings and I get locked out in 2nd, 4th, and 5th. If I don't get locked out, I usually grind the hell out of 4th and 5th grinds regardless. I had to stop using NLTS because it was worse than regular fast shifting.

Quote: TTP Engineering
we do not recommend the XT pressure plate in the Evo. It is our opinion that the pull pressure on the plate is too much for high rpm shifting and is more prone to not fully disengaging.

Quote: TTP Engineering
You are one of the lucky ones with the xt and no lockouts Tom.

Quote: TTP Engineering
We would shy away from the extreme pressure plate... it could contribute to lockouts.

Quote: TTP Engineering
The heavier pressure plate contributes to lockouts, especially when paired with a street disc

Quote: zedevo
i have the same issue on my ACT ...

Quote: Jeff_Jeske
Warped this, air gap that, install my ****..... its the clutch. This isn't a problem with the stock clutch. This isn't a problem with exedy stage 1-2 or TD. People running the centerforce, clutchmasters, fidanza, and south bend aren't locking out.

I've run out of fingers and toes counting how many people went from a functional stock clutch to the HDSS and had immediate problems. Then they suck it up and get a twin disk and the problem is gone.

Quote: Colt4g63
ACT is known for this plain and simple no matter what excuses fly....

Quote: WannaRace
<-- Lockout ONLY at the drag strip at high RPM. I am going to guess and say that it is the organic disc (HDSS) heating up from the launch and causing this problem.

Quote: sti.this
running a HDSS here and had lockout issues

Quote: Noize
I had high rpm lockout in my VIII with an HDSS and a 3071R anything past 7000 at the racetrack as well.

Quote: forcepower22
high rpm lockout in EVERY gear here.... saving up for a twin..... clutch needs to go shoot itself in the face.... worst clutch EVER

Quote: Clutchdc5
my friend has a ACT 6 puck right now and has to granny shift 4th or else it wont go in

Quote: Noize
My VIII locked out at about 400whp Dyno Dynamics. I could shift at 7500 at ~350whp when it was trapping 118, but to trap 120+, it would lock out right at redline. I detuned it for drag racing because of this.

I couldn't hold 1-3 without missing the next upshift. Stock flywheel.

Went back to a stock clutch and could upshift on the limiter no problem.

Quote: evo9ben
act clutch is a big regret it wont let me get into some of my gears spicificly 3rd and 4th unless i granny shift

Quote: davidbuschur
Let me get in with being in agreement 100% on this topic. At one point in time we probably sold more ACT clutches than anyone else. The company has changed, the product sucks and we stopped selling them about 2 years ago.

Quote: magyar86
Add me to the list. At upper 500s, I experienced lock out. Backed down to low 500 and its better.

Street disc with xtreme PP and streetlite Flywheel.

Wish ACT would do something to help their customers.

Quote: partyboy1122
ACT sucks. I pretty much have a 3 speed when I'm at the track.

Quote WHTEVO
It seems anything over 8k rpm i get locked out. I currently have the sprung six puck.

Quote: SRT-TO-EVO
BossEvo on here can join the club as well. He's experiencing lockout issues and synchro issues (can't get in second gear). The clutch is total garbage, and this is nothing new.

The tune can absolutely be optimized for both cut-out closed and cut-out open. The Evo ECU maps are 3D. You don't just tune based on RPM, you tune based on RPM and Load. When you open the cut-out, load goes up and you are in a different part of both the fuel and the timing map. You can adjust those cells completely separately from the cells you'll be hitting with the cut-out closed. It's even arguable that someone who's taken the time to:

- Close cut-out, Datalog, Tune (low load cells)
- Open cut-out, Datalog, Tune (high load cells)

Is going to have a much more resilient tune that's safe for varying load levels. Having a cut-out:

* keeps stock appearance
* is street legal since you can keep the cat & cat-back
* provide more breathing room than any TBE
* allows you to control your noise level
* requires that you have a strong, resilient tune that covers a wide array of load values

There's nothing bad about it unless you ABSOLUTELY need the appearance of a 4.5" tip. Anyone who argues that you NEED something more than a cut-out just has something to sell.

First of all, I never said the stock boost solenoid was "the best option." A 3-port GM solenoid may be better, but I have not seen an MBC that comes close... and I've tried many. Between the power of our stock ECU and the knowledge of all the disassemblers and tuners that have donated their time and work to the community, we have a fully programming electronic boost controller from the factory via the stock boost solenoid. My point is, before you run out and spend $90 on a MBC, you should consider spending a couple bucks on a boost pill and use what you have. Anyone who argues that you NEED something more than the stock solenoid just has something to sell.

I encourage people to learn to datalog their car. It is going to save people a LOT of money and aggravation. That's why I recommend a Tactrix cable and Wideband to every Evo owner as one of their first mods. I've seen all too many people spend $500 one-time tunes (often half-assed), and they have no idea what the tuner changed or if the car is truly setup properly and safely... they're going completely on their trust in the tuner. I don't have that trust. I don't trust anyone to care about my car as much as I do. I encourage people new to cars, ECUs, turbos, tuning... newbies in general, to datalog their car and monitor its health. Even if they never tune it themselves, having those tools is invaluable.

 

I encourage people too to datalog their car and learn about how it runs, etc, but tuning is NOT for everyone. I mean, some people dont even install their own parts.

And yes your right, there is a lot of tuners that do half *** tunes and dont care. That is why its smart to read many reviews, talk to a lot of tuners, etc, till you find one that doesnt half *** tunes and that you trust.

 

+1. Dont undermine the value of tuning your car. Its more valuable than the car parts you just purchased, which ultimately your end goal will be achieved according to what is done after the parts are put on. Its like plastic surgery, you can pay for as much expensive **** as you want, but if you dont have someone get the most out of what your working with, or merely do it right, its gonna eliminate the whole purpose of doing what you intended to do.

 

then your evo will have a blotched stomach like Tera Reid

 

Where do I buy the restrictor pill?

 

Wow great thread. Will definitely be using this as a guide as I go through my modding journey.

 

GST sells them or you can make your own using my how to:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...-solenoid.html

But IMO, if your interested in ECU boost, I'd go with a 3port.

 

Good read. I agree with some, and not with other comments. We all have different needs/wants/styles.

For someone blind, a lot of info here, from the OP and from others.

 

Fact: 80% of Evo owners have no idea how to adjust their clutch the right way. I have tons of drag launches and 8k shifts on my MB7HDSS and it shifts like butter. I had a buddy with the lock out issue, and after I adjusted it, smooth as butter.

Sounding knowledgable on the internet regurgitating information and doing this as a hobby<actually working on cars for the last 13 years day in and day out as a profession.

 

I referred to the XTSS, which is the one everyone has problem with. And even if someone didnt know about adjusting their clutch, it would be the first thing that came up if they searched EvoM for how to fix lockout issues.

There is nothing regurgative about the long, long, LONG list of people who hate their XTSS. Search for the "ACT, you suck" thread for an example, there are many, many bad testimonials from knowledgable enthusiasts and long-time shop owners including DB.