Brad Penn oil turned to Jello!
Mar 11, 2011, 02:30 PM
#16
Brad penn oil really isn't a good oil for 95% of the people on here.
Due to the lack of detergents and additives it will not react well to temperature changes or a long service interval.
Don't cheap out... run a fully synthetic. Your engine will thank you.
Due to the lack of detergents and additives it will not react well to temperature changes or a long service interval.
Don't cheap out... run a fully synthetic. Your engine will thank you.
Mar 11, 2011, 02:38 PM
#18
Evolving Member
Ok so here's a question amybe more food for thought with the hint of a question. I'm currently runnng Motul 15W50 and my car runs great on it and when my car was tuned to 497HP I was running Royal Purple 10W-30 and I have had no problems at all. I'm on a stock bottom end, E85, S2 cams, AMS30R and alot more (if anyone wants to kow the whole list u can look in my profile) so which oil weight is going to be the best? I know what I was recommended to run (I also know there is an oil thread but it's alot of tech talk and I don't get it) but I am unsure with this now because of this thread! I am all about having a long lasting car not breaking so thats very important. This is going to be peoples personal opinions and i understand this but I like hearing what has worked for people and what has not!
Mar 11, 2011, 02:57 PM
#20
Remember back then they built engines very very loose to acept the thick oil's engine internal clearances were big compared to todays engines specially engines like 4G63, 4B11 and honda engines which are very tight from factory and not much looser when built.
in your case of the Pontiac thick oil was ok, would you have wished synthetic were more comon back then i am sure every gear head back then would have wished to have synthetic simply because their engine internals would have stayed much cleaner and better lubricated.
in your case of the Pontiac thick oil was ok, would you have wished synthetic were more comon back then i am sure every gear head back then would have wished to have synthetic simply because their engine internals would have stayed much cleaner and better lubricated.
It was over 60 in my garage.
I don't mean to rag on Pennzoil. Back then they sold a premium oil. They just were the ones with bad luck.
I also had a Ford I drove that always had had Pennzoil in it. When I pulled the head for valve work at 140K the cylinder bores looked like new and the engine was clean inside. So, I'd say the additive package they used then was as good as anything out there today. The oil just wasn't refined the way they can now and contained wax that would solidify in winter causing pumping problems. Also, synthetic was around then. I ran it in winter to avoid cold starting problems.
As for thick oil, the TA manual called for 10W-40 the same weight I run in summer in my stock block Evo. The Evo service manual calls for 20W-40 for hot weather, something I don't find.
I also had a Ford I drove that always had had Pennzoil in it. When I pulled the head for valve work at 140K the cylinder bores looked like new and the engine was clean inside. So, I'd say the additive package they used then was as good as anything out there today. The oil just wasn't refined the way they can now and contained wax that would solidify in winter causing pumping problems. Also, synthetic was around then. I ran it in winter to avoid cold starting problems.
As for thick oil, the TA manual called for 10W-40 the same weight I run in summer in my stock block Evo. The Evo service manual calls for 20W-40 for hot weather, something I don't find.
Ok so here's a question amybe more food for thought with the hint of a question. I'm currently runnng Motul 15W50 and my car runs great on it and when my car was tuned to 497HP I was running Royal Purple 10W-30 and I have had no problems at all. I'm on a stock bottom end, E85, S2 cams, AMS30R and alot more (if anyone wants to kow the whole list u can look in my profile) so which oil weight is going to be the best? I know what I was recommended to run (I also know there is an oil thread but it's alot of tech talk and I don't get it) but I am unsure with this now because of this thread! I am all about having a long lasting car not breaking so thats very important. This is going to be peoples personal opinions and i understand this but I like hearing what has worked for people and what has not!
If you saw oil jello coming out of your cooler lines, would you want to start YOUR engine with that super thick crap? Serious, it was like a rope coming out of the line. I wasn't taking any chances. Otherwise yes, I change oil when the oil is warm.
Mar 11, 2011, 03:19 PM
#23
LOL It was really nice out yesterday! Its 68 right now!
Mar 11, 2011, 03:47 PM
#24
Luckily I was changing the oil cooler seals and found it first. Yes, the car has been sitting for a couple months. I try not let it sit that long and usually start it every 2 weeks and let it warm up to operating temp.
LOL It was really nice out yesterday! Its 68 right now!
LOL It was really nice out yesterday! Its 68 right now!
Yeah good point, only thing that saved you was the fact that you were going to change the seals on the cooler,,, i normally i am sure you to warm up the car before changing the oil and before that gunk could melt it would have ran the engine high and dry, and you would have never know the root cause of the failure in this case it would have been due to oil starvation.
this is really good lessons learnned for many of us.
Mar 11, 2011, 03:51 PM
#25
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I use brad penn in my drag car.It runs on methanol so oil is changed every time i go to the track at the end of the day.sometimes i change it twice at the track depending how far i get into eliminations.I use it because its cost effective over running amsoil lets say.I wouldnt run a racing oil over 1000 miles on a street car.The sludge is a most likely a mix of it not having detergents and sitting in garage for a few months.Oh yea i concur 60 deg garages is cheating
Mar 11, 2011, 04:03 PM
#26
I use brad penn in my drag car.It runs on methanol so oil is changed every time i go to the track at the end of the day.sometimes i change it twice at the track depending how far i get into eliminations.I use it because its cost effective over running amsoil lets say.I wouldnt run a racing oil over 1000 miles on a street car.The sludge is a most likely a mix of it not having detergents and sitting in garage for a few months.Oh yea i concur 60 deg garages is cheating
daily drivers should use something s little better.
Mar 11, 2011, 06:03 PM
#28
I use brad penn in my drag car.It runs on methanol so oil is changed every time i go to the track at the end of the day.sometimes i change it twice at the track depending how far i get into eliminations.I use it because its cost effective over running amsoil lets say.I wouldnt run a racing oil over 1000 miles on a street car.The sludge is a most likely a mix of it not having detergents and sitting in garage for a few months.Oh yea i concur 60 deg garages is cheating
Yeah good point, only thing that saved you was the fact that you were going to change the seals on the cooler,,, i normally i am sure you to warm up the car before changing the oil and before that gunk could melt it would have ran the engine high and dry, and you would have never know the root cause of the failure in this case it would have been due to oil starvation.
Also for the record, I replaced it with 15w50 Mobil1 not 20w50.
Still no word from BP yet. I wish they had a person I could call on the phone. Not trying to dog the company but I'm really curious what caused this. Now that I'm thinking about it, this oil has less than 200 miles on it, not 1000 since I had changed it after I replaced the clutch. Still has its color and was not brown or black.
Mar 11, 2011, 08:45 PM
#30
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English Racing also recommends Brad Penn. I've been using it and so far no problems either. Hopefully it was a bad batch/sat too long. I may try amsoil next, but was already thinking of doing that, not because of this thread. Keep us posted if you hear from BP, OP.