Recent A/C problem
Apr 19, 2012, 06:23 AM
#16
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Apr 19, 2012, 04:28 PM
#17
I think the electrical is fine sounds like normal cycling.
What I think it is, over time AC system can develop moisture. If it has not been service, the moisture is prolly freezing over the Orfice tube. Ive seen this in several cars, evac the R-134 hold in a vacuum for 60-90minutes this boils all the water out. Refill the correct amount of R-134a too much or too little and the system will not work properly....
What I think it is, over time AC system can develop moisture. If it has not been service, the moisture is prolly freezing over the Orfice tube. Ive seen this in several cars, evac the R-134 hold in a vacuum for 60-90minutes this boils all the water out. Refill the correct amount of R-134a too much or too little and the system will not work properly....
May 12, 2012, 11:09 AM
#18
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Thank you!
OK, Here were my symptoms:
When the AC blew, it blew ice cold. I could drive it from 15 min to hours (the hotter it was outside, the quicker the symptoms showed), then it would get humid and blow warm. I found that if when the symptoms started, I could sometimes jerk the car right left, and it would start working again. or if I pushed in the clutch and reved the engine, at higher RPMs that it would work.
So a month ago in FL, I had my AC serviced because it hadn't been touched since new (06 Evo MR). They pulled a full vacuum and held it for 30 minutes, then charged the system with oil and dye... I didn't drive the car much for a week, so the symptoms never showed.
Then I left for Wisconsin... Left in the middle of a pre-summer heat wave, and while leaving the Orlando area, It started to blow warm. I shut the AC off for an hour, and when I turned it back on, it blew cold and stayed cold for the rest of my trip (as I headed north, the temperatures got cooler)
over the past week, the temperatures here in Madison have gotten warmer, and the same problem showed up. I took it to an affiliate of the place that did the service in FL, and the problem occurred for them. They checked the relays, they checked the computer, they checked for leaks, and did another vacuum/refill. While they did these diagnostics, I read this thread... I went out to the shop and spoke to the "Master Tech" and told him of this common problem, and he brushed me aside. He said "I think your compressor is shot, the valves in it must be stuck, causing the refrigerant to overheat shutting off the clutch, cause I can't get the clutch to engage even if I jump it... Or the clutch is shot. It will take 2 hours just to pull the compressor to inspect it, and that's $150 alone" I said "could you check the clutch air-gap to see if it's in spec, cause if it's not, changing the shim would be a cheap/easy fix?" his response "well, I'd have to pull the compressor just to measure that correctly, and at that point we might as well just replace it and that's going to be $500-$600"
I said, "Thank you for your time, I can't afford that right now, but after I get paid next week, I'll be back" (easy way to stop the pressure sales is to say you don't have any money).
So, I pick up a feeler guage and a new belt (it just started squeeling at start up) at a parts shop, measure the air-gap (WAY out of spec). Order the kit listed in this thread from the local dealer. Jack up the front right, pull the wheel off pull back the fender liner, and swapped out shims (had to try two different to get it into spec).
AC problem gone. Works like new. Total investment:
2 hours at NTB (National Tire and Battery) wasted for a false diagnosis and being brushed off by the tech. (no charge as it was warranty from the Florida vac and fill)
5 minutes at a local parts store $6.99 for the 32 blade feeler guage $34 for the new belt (not related, but still purchased)
10 minutes at the dealership with the part number listed on this thread. $20.69+tax for the kit
about 1 hour and 15 minutes for the repair (from jacking up the front of the car, to closing the hood).
Thank you Evo M
When the AC blew, it blew ice cold. I could drive it from 15 min to hours (the hotter it was outside, the quicker the symptoms showed), then it would get humid and blow warm. I found that if when the symptoms started, I could sometimes jerk the car right left, and it would start working again. or if I pushed in the clutch and reved the engine, at higher RPMs that it would work.
So a month ago in FL, I had my AC serviced because it hadn't been touched since new (06 Evo MR). They pulled a full vacuum and held it for 30 minutes, then charged the system with oil and dye... I didn't drive the car much for a week, so the symptoms never showed.
Then I left for Wisconsin... Left in the middle of a pre-summer heat wave, and while leaving the Orlando area, It started to blow warm. I shut the AC off for an hour, and when I turned it back on, it blew cold and stayed cold for the rest of my trip (as I headed north, the temperatures got cooler)
over the past week, the temperatures here in Madison have gotten warmer, and the same problem showed up. I took it to an affiliate of the place that did the service in FL, and the problem occurred for them. They checked the relays, they checked the computer, they checked for leaks, and did another vacuum/refill. While they did these diagnostics, I read this thread... I went out to the shop and spoke to the "Master Tech" and told him of this common problem, and he brushed me aside. He said "I think your compressor is shot, the valves in it must be stuck, causing the refrigerant to overheat shutting off the clutch, cause I can't get the clutch to engage even if I jump it... Or the clutch is shot. It will take 2 hours just to pull the compressor to inspect it, and that's $150 alone" I said "could you check the clutch air-gap to see if it's in spec, cause if it's not, changing the shim would be a cheap/easy fix?" his response "well, I'd have to pull the compressor just to measure that correctly, and at that point we might as well just replace it and that's going to be $500-$600"
I said, "Thank you for your time, I can't afford that right now, but after I get paid next week, I'll be back" (easy way to stop the pressure sales is to say you don't have any money).
So, I pick up a feeler guage and a new belt (it just started squeeling at start up) at a parts shop, measure the air-gap (WAY out of spec). Order the kit listed in this thread from the local dealer. Jack up the front right, pull the wheel off pull back the fender liner, and swapped out shims (had to try two different to get it into spec).
AC problem gone. Works like new. Total investment:
2 hours at NTB (National Tire and Battery) wasted for a false diagnosis and being brushed off by the tech. (no charge as it was warranty from the Florida vac and fill)
5 minutes at a local parts store $6.99 for the 32 blade feeler guage $34 for the new belt (not related, but still purchased)
10 minutes at the dealership with the part number listed on this thread. $20.69+tax for the kit
about 1 hour and 15 minutes for the repair (from jacking up the front of the car, to closing the hood).
Thank you Evo M
May 12, 2012, 02:49 PM
#20
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well, I didn't think it was difficult at all, but if you're the kind of person who doesn't know which end is correct on a screw driver, then you will have a tough time.
before you tear into it, make sure that your air gap is the problem. The shop said "oh, we can't measure that properly without pulling the compressor out" which is BS. My under pannels are off, so all I had to do is reach under and measure from the bottom. I have fat arms, otherwise I could have measured from the top side.
before you tear into it, make sure that your air gap is the problem. The shop said "oh, we can't measure that properly without pulling the compressor out" which is BS. My under pannels are off, so all I had to do is reach under and measure from the bottom. I have fat arms, otherwise I could have measured from the top side.
Jun 30, 2012, 03:47 AM
#22
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I had the same problem with my a/c...when I first start the car the a/c would work...the compressor clutch hub would engage. But after driving for some time it stops working.
I took out the shim/washer allowed quicker engagement and lil spray of PB blaster to loosen things up. It's an electrical clutch mechanism. As time goes by the gap slightly increases between the coil and clutch hub. Ps..dont spray on the belt/pulley
I took out the shim/washer allowed quicker engagement and lil spray of PB blaster to loosen things up. It's an electrical clutch mechanism. As time goes by the gap slightly increases between the coil and clutch hub. Ps..dont spray on the belt/pulley
May 25, 2013, 07:29 PM
#26
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While driving my 06 evo ix when it is decently hot for SW PA temps, my a/c will engage and disengage rapidly, sometimes staying engaged for a few seconds or sometimes staying disengaged for a few seconds, just to repeat the machine gun like sound it makes from engaging and disengaging soo rapidly, does anyone know what this might be? I have made my own thread about the issue, and have gotten replies back to check the refrigerant level and also to check how it is shimmed, but just wondering if someone else has had this exact problem and what they did to fix it. MIND YOU it is engaging and disengaging RAPIDLY, I see most it will only occur every soo often while driving, but this is driving me crazy with how rapid it occurs
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