Evo IX handbreak.
May 2, 2011, 03:20 PM
#16
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Yeah man, like these guys are saying. Pull up the cup holder and adjust the nut at the bottom of the e-brake handle. If that doesn't adjust it enough, then go to the rotor and do the adjustments.
I had to do this a few weeks ago and tightening the nut was all that was needed.
I had to do this a few weeks ago and tightening the nut was all that was needed.
May 3, 2011, 06:00 AM
#19
The major adjustment changes the shoe center clearance, the clearance between the brake shoe and the drum (inner rotor surface), this is needed when the shoes start to wear, it increases the shoe center clearance and you need more stroke in the system to counter, which isn't there. So you readjust the shoes to put them back at the OEM spec and your parking brake is back to being as effective as it was from factory.
Can you tell I've designed parking brake systems?
May 3, 2011, 07:13 AM
#20
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Unfortunately this is just your uneducated opinion. The Evo has fixed calipers, which is why it can not use a caliper parking brake, it doesnt' slide. This is the reason why it uses a drum brake (instead of a seperate caliper parking brake), drum brakes have higher effectiveness than caliper brakes, which is why for heavy vehicles, light trucks etc, the parking brakes are drums.
I'm very pleased that Mitsubishi used great service brakes. But the rear brakes don't do much, another design could have sufficed there - painted red with paint guaranteed to peel. So, my contention is that Mitsu gave up a better design in order to provide a matching brake in the rear. Well, I'm a function over looks guy.
Last edited by barneyb; May 3, 2011 at 07:16 AM.
May 3, 2011, 05:57 PM
#22
Back out of my garage with my Evo's parking brake engaged and not notice anything until going forward as apposed to trying to back out my my garage in my DSM with the parking brake engaged and have the car hump up because only the front wheels can move, the rear wheels are locked; what further education is required to know that one braking system is superior to the other. The main purpose of a parking brake is to hold the car in place when unattended. I'm not sure the Evo parking brake is capable of doing that in all situations.
I'm very pleased that Mitsubishi used great service brakes. But the rear brakes don't do much, another design could have sufficed there - painted red with paint guaranteed to peel. So, my contention is that Mitsu gave up a better design in order to provide a matching brake in the rear. Well, I'm a function over looks guy.
I'm very pleased that Mitsubishi used great service brakes. But the rear brakes don't do much, another design could have sufficed there - painted red with paint guaranteed to peel. So, my contention is that Mitsu gave up a better design in order to provide a matching brake in the rear. Well, I'm a function over looks guy.
All parking brakes have to pass the same requirement by FMVSS135 regulation. 20% grade at GVWR, facing up and down hill. I'm going to bet your 4dr evo has a higher GVWR than your DSM...which means its capable of holding more torque.
By the sounds of it your DSM is FWD only??
Sorry if I've offended you, it wasen't my intentions
Jun 21, 2011, 01:54 PM
#23
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Unfortunately this is just your uneducated opinion. The Evo has fixed calipers, which is why it can not use a caliper parking brake, it doesnt' slide. This is the reason why it uses a drum brake (instead of a seperate caliper parking brake), drum brakes have higher effectiveness than caliper brakes, which is why for heavy vehicles, light trucks etc, the parking brakes are drums.
Adjusting the nut on the hand brake doesn't do anything to the shoes, it just takes out the slack in the wire system, over time the wires will stretch.
The major adjustment changes the shoe center clearance, the clearance between the brake shoe and the drum (inner rotor surface), this is needed when the shoes start to wear, it increases the shoe center clearance and you need more stroke in the system to counter, which isn't there. So you readjust the shoes to put them back at the OEM spec and your parking brake is back to being as effective as it was from factory.
Can you tell I've designed parking brake systems?
Adjusting the nut on the hand brake doesn't do anything to the shoes, it just takes out the slack in the wire system, over time the wires will stretch.
The major adjustment changes the shoe center clearance, the clearance between the brake shoe and the drum (inner rotor surface), this is needed when the shoes start to wear, it increases the shoe center clearance and you need more stroke in the system to counter, which isn't there. So you readjust the shoes to put them back at the OEM spec and your parking brake is back to being as effective as it was from factory.
Can you tell I've designed parking brake systems?
Another question is surface area vs. lever arm. Does the position of the caliper style get more breaking torque efficiency than the difference in braking effieciency in surface area of the pads vs. the shoes . I could understand that on heavy vehicles that grabbing further away from the center of the hub would put more stress on all parts involved but the evo is pretty beefy for its weight so im suprised if that was part of the consideration when the lotus works differently but effectively.
I am not experienced in these matters and would love a good explaination from soemone who knows what they are talking about/ has experience.
Jun 21, 2011, 02:12 PM
#24
This proper adjustment should be in the service manual (which most people never see). Adjusting the drum's shoes is the major adjustment and at the hand brake lever there is another adjustment nut for the wires, this is the minor adjustment. Only adjust the major of the minor is already at its limit. (don't torque the hand brake adjustment nut too much or you'll brake it.)
This is exactly how it is to be done.
Service manual is full of win.
might to to do that
Jun 22, 2011, 10:12 AM
#26
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I have NEVER touched the adjustment of my e brake from inside the cabin.
While pulling the rear wheels is a major pITA compared from doing it in the cabin...its the only way to go.
While pulling the rear wheels is a major pITA compared from doing it in the cabin...its the only way to go.
Jun 23, 2011, 07:03 AM
#28
You should know there is a reason for the major and minor adjustments.
While the parking brake wire stretches over time by a few mm its needed for the minor in cabin adjustment. Jumping directly to the major star wheel on the parking brake assy is not wise. As the only reason to adjust this is because the shoes are warn and you have to readjust the shoe center clearance to the drum back to the factory specs.
A word of caution, if you over adjust this (ie, your shoes arn't warn and you jump righ to the major adjustment), you can have brake drag (over heat the drum) and self energization of the parking brake assy = it locks by its self... Just FYI.
Jun 23, 2011, 09:56 AM
#29
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Brakes are not a science, and while I appreciate the sound advice, I knew my shoes needed replacement as I use it to slow down if I am traveling above the speed limit and see authorities as not to trigger my brake lamps.
What I stated now as I have before, is that it is ALWAYS wise to pull your wheels REGARDLESS to at least see what type of shoe material you are working with prior to making ANY adjustments.
What I stated now as I have before, is that it is ALWAYS wise to pull your wheels REGARDLESS to at least see what type of shoe material you are working with prior to making ANY adjustments.
