Did your kit come with 4 shims? The problem is when I originally ordered one, it somehow came with only one shim. And it's not the correct thickness. I was hoping someone would have an extra they could measure. I'm sure I can find one or order one with the right dimensions.

 

Here is what is inside the service kit

 

Thanks for the picture. Yeah, I got screwed, my kit only had one shim, while that kit has 4 (the small washer shims). Do you still have extra shims that you could measure the diameters? Then I could find a replacement somewhere else.

Maybe if I order a second kit somewhere else it will come with 4 shims. None of the vendors I've asked are willing to say the kit actually comes with 4 shims.

 

narboza, my kit had 5 shims in it.


Do you need to purge the system or can this be done while it's still charged?
The AC kit, of course, didn't fix my problem...yay

 

2004 Lancer Sportback Ralliart AC Coil Replacement:

UGH, I think I started at around noon and got finished at 19:30 this evening! I should know better but I was really hoping that the DIY thread that I read was going to unfold as easy as it sounded. Anxiety set in after removing the pulley retaining clip and contemplating why the compressor pulley wasn't removing as easily as the post said it did. It obviously did not, and it ended up requiring a puller that I had to rent from Autozone. A BIG PLUS was that I was able to replace the compressor coil without having to remove the entire compressor from the engine compartment. Here are the steps that it required:

1. Remove the negative cable from the battery
2. Jack up the right front side of the car
3. Remove the right front tire
4. Remove the serpentine belt from the AC pulley ONLY
5. Remove the 14 millimeter nut and remove the clutch plate (locate/remove shims)
6. Remove the pulley retaining clip, and remove the pulley with the puller (I had to detach the front bumper/clip and the windshield wiper reservoir mounting bolts, then set the reservoir off to the side on a box (tubing still attached), to make room for the puller...ugh!).
7. Remove the coil retaining clip, then remove the coil
8. Install new coil...reassemble in reverse order, DON'T FORGET THE SHIMS!

I HAVE ICE COLD AC AGAIN, WOHOOOOOO!

Part Number / Part Description / Quantity / Price Total

MR958863 / COIL,A/C COMPRESS / 1 / $81.66
MR315936 / Replacement Kit /1 / $20.73
Sub Total $102.39
Shipping method - Ground Shipping $9.93
Handling Fee $0.00
Tax $0.00
Total $112.32

http://www.oemmitsubishiparts.com/

 

Hey guys, had the same problem. I went to a few ac guys and they didn't want to know about it. Then found a bloke in the paper and called him up. He said it sounded like the shim and could service and fix for $180 Aus at my home. When he got here, he ripped the drivers side wheel of (that's your passenger side wheel) played around for about 40 min and was done. The result was awesome, A/C works like a dream

 

$180 AUD = $173.47 USD for (40) mins?!

 

Yeah, at first I was sus on him but he knew what he was doing. He went straight for the jack stand and had the wheel of in seconds. I was asking him questions for the first couple of mins but he said he knew the mechanical side of A/C systems and knew lancers/evos after about 8-10 years the shims were cactus. He said his son had a evo 6.5 tommy mac edition and had done the shims in that also. After a couple of mins chatting with him I got the feeling I was bothering him so I went in side and left him to it. About 40 mins later I heard the wheel going on and went out and paid him.
I was very surprised at the end result, A/C working perfect. I though I was going to get ripped off, but it turned out to be a straight up old bloke who knew his sht! Not a lot of people like that around anymore. Sorry to get long winded but thought I would elaborate.
P.S he also said to keep A/C systems working at there peak you should service them every couple of years, as for what a service entails I have no idea. Hope this helps guys.

 

I finally have some competition I see, lol! I found people really like good stories, though the key word here is "good," and yours was good!

 

My air gap was my problem. Just fixed my A/C today by removing the washer behind the clutch assembly.

For those of you who removed or added a washer and got your A/C operating again, how long did it last??

I measured my air gap and it was at .025mm-.028mm. With the washer removed, it was brought back down to .012mm.

This thread saved me a ton of money.

Thank you EVOM!!

Here's my thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11196087

 

I too removed the spacer/shim which lasted about a year, but about five of those months were winter without AC, when it went hot again. The shim isn't the issue though, it's the magnetic coil getting old, so I replaced the coil which kept me cool for nearly 6000 miles from NJ to Ottawa, Ottawa to Yosemite National Park, CA where I blew a lower low pressure AC hose. Got that replaced down in San Diego, drove it all the way back 2700 miles to Vineland, NJ where I spun the AC pulley off it's shaft. It was then I decided to replace the entire compressor. That thing is performing like a champ today 0.5" from my turbo down pipe!

 

^ That's good to know. I just hope my removal of the shim/spacer lasts for the rest this summer!

I understand the clutch and coil assembly will be next when the compressor fails to engage again. I did notice some wear on the clutch side and where it mates up to...the coil I believe? Anyways, that will be next....hopefully after summer of 2014 and before summer of 2015! :-)

 

the coil can be replaced without relieving the system of coolant correct?

 

Correct...I had to unbolt the windshield washer reservoir and move it out of the way to make room for the puller (autozone rents them), but that's about it. After replacing the coil, I didn't have a gap tool, so I just used the thinnest spacer (thinking it resembled the one that I removed) and it worked flawless. Keep the spacer(s) if you can and duplicate the same when you reassemble.

Note: I don't have an Evo so your set up may vary.

 

Not to be critical, but rather, educational, it's the clutch plate that fails to engage. The coil (magnet) draws the hub/clutch plate (metal) to mate with it, causing it to spin, etc ( http://ac-compressor.blogspot.com/20...-work.html?m=1). I'd never seen the coil before I replaced it, but it's a black donut shaped magnet behind the clutch plate, so yes, you "believe" correct!