need help big time...alignment problem.
how would I know if I have a bent knuckle, alignment seems to be within spec or atleast that's what the guy said that did my alignment. should I be looking for/at something in particular? the rear got hit and my rear driver's side got barley hit, replaced the cv joint and abs senser and a wheel bearing and the head still continues. I'm hoping it's just my z1 star specs that are pulling like that.
Only way to see if something is bent is to check the following..........
Steering axis inclination and included angle
This is not rocket science to check if something is bent.... Forget Camber and toe, these can be adjusted but if the SAI is in RED or way off you know something is bent.
I cant believe the idiots doing these alignments for you.
when I got star spec's a few years ago when they first came out I had a tire that pulled slightly. alignment was fine and I ended up swapping wheels left to right to confirm that it was the tire causing the pull (pulled the other way once swapped). it wasn't bad so I just lived with it always having a slight pull to the right.
And PLEASE can I see the print out??????
Only way to see if something is bent is to check the following..........
Steering axis inclination and included angle
This is not rocket science to check if something is bent.... Forget Camber and toe, these can be adjusted but if the SAI is in RED or way off you know something is bent.
I cant believe the idiots doing these alignments for you.
Only way to see if something is bent is to check the following..........
Steering axis inclination and included angle
This is not rocket science to check if something is bent.... Forget Camber and toe, these can be adjusted but if the SAI is in RED or way off you know something is bent.
I cant believe the idiots doing these alignments for you.
I'm still trying to digest the idea that you paid someone for this alignment:
front left front right
camber -.9 camber -1.0
toe -0.39 toe 0.44
steer ahead -0.42
rear left -1.30 rear right -1.02
toe +.29 toe +.22
Is the pull to the left or right now? The mismatching camber in front (with your latest alignment) should cause some push to the left (i.e., away from the side with more camber), but at least they have the steering wheel straight this time. Also, did you ask for the rear toe? I would have asked for zero all around.
front left front right
camber -.9 camber -1.0
toe -0.39 toe 0.44
steer ahead -0.42
rear left -1.30 rear right -1.02
toe +.29 toe +.22
Is the pull to the left or right now? The mismatching camber in front (with your latest alignment) should cause some push to the left (i.e., away from the side with more camber), but at least they have the steering wheel straight this time. Also, did you ask for the rear toe? I would have asked for zero all around.
To the OP: Check the bolts on the rear camber and toe adjustments. These bolts can easily be stripped by incompetant alignment techs (been there done that)
And find a decent alignment shop!!!
is this good enough for right now?
front
camber left -.71 right front -1.11
caster 3.57 3.82
toe 0.00 0.02
steer ahead -0.01 degrees
rear left rear right
camber -0.85 -0.83
toe 0.18 0.15
thrust angle 0.02 degrees
front
camber left -.71 right front -1.11
caster 3.57 3.82
toe 0.00 0.02
steer ahead -0.01 degrees
rear left rear right
camber -0.85 -0.83
toe 0.18 0.15
thrust angle 0.02 degrees
You can set your steering wheel to the 12o'clock position. Take a Long straight edge or something long enough to cover the tire. And look at the angle of the wheel in relation to the fender. Basically your just going to eyeball the wheels and see if one or both are pointing out or in. If they are, with the steering wheel straight..jack up the front and adjust the tie rods until the wheels are straight. I had pulling on my 1g dsm with wear, and I did the above and the car drove straight after that.
That's the easy way to do it and if you got your car back from an alignment and it was in the 1o'clock position, the rest of the alignment is going to be screwed up from there.
N
That's the easy way to do it and if you got your car back from an alignment and it was in the 1o'clock position, the rest of the alignment is going to be screwed up from there.
N
Yes the alignment is sloppy(its ok) but other members here have aggressive alignment in mind when they tell you toe can be this......camber can be that...Dont listen to that right now as your not going road racing.
When you go to a shop the machine already has factory setting in there, If you go to a good shop that is performance or race oriented they can adjust your setting to suit your need further then the factory spec.
Notice how your camber reading is different from previous one, this means one of those guys machine is off. If you have factory bolts the camber should be the same on any machine you go to.
Factory specs are designed for everyday use and extended tire wear.
I hate myself when cars are pulling or not driving straight. So I feel your pain. Im giving you all the material to pin point the problem your just not grasping.
Why did you go and got another alignment done when I asked you to rotate tires first???
Do yourself a favor,,,,find a buddy with an evo. Drive it and see if you like how it drives, then take that evos tires and install them EXACT same way on your car to completely eliminate tire issues.
LISTEN GOOD*****if the Dunlops on your car now are really bad(meaning they cause a pull) they will still make your car drive weird even if they are in the rear.
Now you said your car drives better...right???after tire rotation right??? So now the best way is to install a good known tire set to check.
For your next alignment choose a shop that knows what they are talking about. The SAI will not be on the print out, its only a diagnostic angle shown on the screen in the shop!!!!!!
This might be a lot of information Read few times. Good Luck!!
Oddly enough, the fancier your wheels, the less likely you are to get a good alignment. Techs are taught to be extra careful with fancy wheels, especially if they are painted. This causes them to make more mistakes when installing the reflectors. The tech's boss almost always has the following rule: "better to screw up the alignment than chip the paint on the customer's wheels." I always drove the car in on the cruddy, chipped, scraped, racing wheels to get an alignment and watched to make sure the reflectors were on there tight and straight.
One final note: be sure to have them start the car and turn the front wheels from left to right before taking the final reading.
The idea of doing a "home/garage/string alignment" using a ruler across the fenders is, er, novel to me. If the car has already been aligned but you must have the wheel turned to go straight and you're not willing to set up the strings to do it right, then I'd use the "twist and count" method, instead (where you twist the left tie rod a quarter turn and then do the same, but opposite, to the right, etc). On most cars I'd say "who cares?" for steer-ahead, but if you have a car that uses steering angle to control the rear differential, then it might be worth it.
totally 'preciate ya guys helping me figure this out, that's why I love this forum everyone is always willing to help the next person out. It's kinda hard trying to find someone with an evo in south florida, hopefully I can find someone that can help me. I'm not bound to give up on my car, too much money spent to give in now.


