Winter preparation
Hey, I live in Canada where it can get down to -45 Celsius. I was looking around for block heaters but the only ones I can find are the magnetic ones. My friend had one on his car and it didn't keep the oil viscous enough to start in the morning. I ran into this other heater that keeps the coolant warm. I have no idea how this would help start up.
Also I read on 0W20 oil. Wouldn't that be way to thin for running temperature? And CorrosionX, has anyone used this product? Are there any other rust prevention sprays out there that you guys have used?
Any input would be great.
Thanks, Jadan.
Also I read on 0W20 oil. Wouldn't that be way to thin for running temperature? And CorrosionX, has anyone used this product? Are there any other rust prevention sprays out there that you guys have used?
Any input would be great.
Thanks, Jadan.
Last edited by JDN; Nov 2, 2011 at 11:06 PM.
http://www.farmandfleet.com/products...w#.TrI05HI_jUA
Something like this is what I used on my evo when it was in Alaska. Winters would get around -45 to -60 some days. I had one of these installed on my oil pan and my car fired up. You need an extension cord ran to your car. Just fyi, the car will still crank slower then usual but it will crank. and i ran 5-30 all winter.
Another thing you can look into is freeze plug block heaters.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...cer&vi=1431370
Also an oldschool way is to get a frying pan with embering coals, and set it right under your oilpan over night. I never tried that and never planned on it since the heater pad was working fine.
Something like this is what I used on my evo when it was in Alaska. Winters would get around -45 to -60 some days. I had one of these installed on my oil pan and my car fired up. You need an extension cord ran to your car. Just fyi, the car will still crank slower then usual but it will crank. and i ran 5-30 all winter.
Another thing you can look into is freeze plug block heaters.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...cer&vi=1431370
Also an oldschool way is to get a frying pan with embering coals, and set it right under your oilpan over night. I never tried that and never planned on it since the heater pad was working fine.
Keep in mind, at those temperatures your oil may never hit normal operating temperatures. I normally see 30-40C decrease in oil temps in the winter time and its only ~0C outside for the most part
Car runs better in cold to an extent being turbo loves cold air because it's more dense. But engines themselves operate best hen they are warmed up at normal temp. And you dont want it so cold the oil is sluggish. Your turbo needs that lol.
Hey, I live in Canada where it can get down to -45 Celsius. I was looking around for block heaters but the only ones I can find are the magnetic ones. My friend had one on his car and it didn't keep the oil viscous enough to start in the morning. I ran into this other heater that keeps the coolant warm. I have no idea how this would help start up.
Also I read on 0W20 oil. Wouldn't that be way to thin for running temperature? And CorrosionX, has anyone used this product? Are there any other rust prevention sprays out there that you guys have used?
Any input would be great.
Thanks, Jadan.
Also I read on 0W20 oil. Wouldn't that be way to thin for running temperature? And CorrosionX, has anyone used this product? Are there any other rust prevention sprays out there that you guys have used?
Any input would be great.
Thanks, Jadan.
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Reading your post I was thinking, -45 Celsius, that is probably not so much in Fahrenheit. So, I jumped to a temperature conversion gismo on the internet and found it is -49 degrees Fahrenheit. Ouch! I'll bet when two cars touch each other at that temperature the fascias become jigsaw puzzles.
I looked in the Mitsu service manual for an oil recommendation for those temps and they are silent. I hope you know a 50/50 mix of antifreeze at -45 is a solid. You need to run 60/40.
I've never used the anti rust product you mention but I've used others. Back in the 1970's cars came from the US makers bare metal on the underside. So, they were junk in 5 to 7 years. I had a '79 Trans Am I wanted to preserve and used a liquid I sprayed on with a paint gun. I put the car on stands, masked off things like tires and brakes I didn't want oily, and sprayed the entire underside of the car. I also got into any cavities in the body I could reach. My niece, a lawyer, is still driving that car and she looks good in it.
I looked in the Mitsu service manual for an oil recommendation for those temps and they are silent. I hope you know a 50/50 mix of antifreeze at -45 is a solid. You need to run 60/40.
I've never used the anti rust product you mention but I've used others. Back in the 1970's cars came from the US makers bare metal on the underside. So, they were junk in 5 to 7 years. I had a '79 Trans Am I wanted to preserve and used a liquid I sprayed on with a paint gun. I put the car on stands, masked off things like tires and brakes I didn't want oily, and sprayed the entire underside of the car. I also got into any cavities in the body I could reach. My niece, a lawyer, is still driving that car and she looks good in it.
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I've ran 0W20 year round in a number of turbo and NA cars, it's fine. Given, I don't live in the arctic. I'm surprised you haven't been able to find an alternative to the magnetic block heater though, I was under the impression there were some that went in the dip stick tube, could be wrong, memory on that is fuzzy.
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