Isn't this a bad idea because you're basically breaking the seal on your head gasket then reusing it? Isn't that a risky no-no?

 

I never had a problem.

The intake manifold bracket was still on the car so I know the head didn't move at all.

I took all the head bolts out in the correct procedure. I then put the ARP head studs in (using their fastener assembly lube) torquing them in the correct procedure, in 30 ft/lb increments, all the way up to 90 ft/lbs. I then installed my HKS cams and everything worked fine like I said for 25,000 miles (I did check the torque of the studs after a few thousand milesinstalled as well). No issues, no oil consumption and no leaking.



-Bink

 

But thats not the "right" way to do the job, thats a shortcut way to do it. Does it work for people? Yes. But you can also run into problems doing it that way, which would cost you to have to pull the head in the end anyway...

 

ARP head studs @ 24 PSI is totally unnecessary.

 

I really don't get why people throw down arbitrary PSI numbers for when you need headstuds, it really doesn't make sense. Either you think the 10 more PSI on top of the hundreds (thousands?) that occur on combustion is going to put you over the top, or you think all turbos at a given PSI are going to produce the same combustion pressures (compare the torque an FP Black makes to a stock 8 turbo at the same PSI). IMO, you should use torque as a measure of when you need headstuds, because that is what's really related to cylinder pressure. People don't talk about the danger of rods snapping at XX PSI, they talk about 400-450WTQ. Headstuds would fail for the same reason as rods so you should think of the same variable.

 

I agree with this. It's been common procedure that if the head studs are loosened or disturbed you have to replace the headgasket. The head gasket has to be torqued in a certain pattern because of head warping.
Disturbing the studs can break a seal and retorquing may not restore that seal. Also if you want the head to seal better I would want to use a product like Hylomar head gasket sealer along with the ARP studs.

 

I Have Walbro Pump. ARP Headstuds Upper and Lower Piping.. and Turbo Back.. 3".. and have been running 30PSI.. on a Reese Tune.. 330whp and 340ft.. and no issues all summer long and I live in San Antonio..

 

i ran 26psi stock 8 turbo and my boy runs 28psi on his 9 and both cars run and ran great ... i say ran cause i went bigger (pause)

 

I was tuned for 25 psi almost stock (AEM intake and an HKS Hi-Power CBE) and I haven't had any problems. This was on 91 octane from California.