4g64t_dohc

lol yeah same here, i'm working on doing the evo 8 head swap on my 2.4l 3g eclipse. going with a Garrett gtx3582r turbo, was going to go with PTE 6262 or the 6765 but so far i haven't heard anything good about precision other than everything garrett does, they copy so that makes me think that they can't come up with their own stuff ya know? i'll post some pictures here this evening on the intake it's almost like a mirror already. anyways, i've read a bunch on the Meth injection, and found a thread... https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/501954-so-you-have-meth-injection-your-pistons-also-cracked.html i figured everyone should see this but i was also wondering, this could be just from the DRIVER, or the TUNE. not just the meth correct? i mean i understand that the meth could cool the piston down too much causing it to crack but if tuned properly and with every cylinder getting the same amount of meth to burn, wouldn't everything be fine? i've just been curious about this because i was planning on doing meth injection so i can make the power i wanted (around 600whp)... or should i just save the hassle and just use the trick fuel at the 76 down the street (101oct)??? i looked into c16... too expensive for me, i cannot afford $14.75 a gal. the trick fuel down the road is only like $3.70 i believe.

4g64t_dohc

okay so i went over this with 1500 and 2000, but i see alot more imperfections now that i've went to this high of grit sandpaper. i might go back down to like 600 to fix some things. but so far it's lookin pretty cool i think.

EvoFredo

iTrader: (21)

looks real good. I got some progress done also. the holes are all welded up and im now working on shaving the castings on the inner runners like you suggested. Also I know what you mean about the imperfections after you sand with fine grit sand paper. I will take extra time with my rough grit . 100 to help reduce the amount of deep scratches that may come out as i go up in grit.

4g64t_dohc

yeah now that i'm already up 2000 grit, i wish i would have taken more time with the 80-120 grit. i think mine looks good enough, i don't want to have 100's of hours into polishing a manifold lol. still gunna buff it though

EvoDom

iTrader: (7)

That's deffinetly different. I don't think I would have the patience to do all that

Good work

4g64t_dohc

yeah i'm pretty sure i'm done sanding on it, ima buff it and call it good. i actually just got my thermostat housing, camshaft sensor housing and cover, rear water pipe, and my valve cover. i polished the thermostat housing, panting the camshaft sensor housing black. and lol as for the valve cover, i already shaved off all those ugly lines and mg logo, and have almost the entire valve cover prepped for paint already, going to paint it b12 blue. so it'll match the car.

Levar

iTrader: (85)

I think it looks fantastic. Now get it ported, my friend. By the way, did you ever consider using something like a Dremel or something? I remember sanding all four of my OEM wheels and it took me seven days.

xbattousai

That's nice it'll look different^

Jush

I just repainted my valve cover. That was about 3 hours sanding. Enough for me!

wizechef

iTrader: (4)

LOoks really good! I would port it while it's out like someone else said... I did this on my Lightnings plenum and supercharger one winter. I did most of the hard work 80-240 grit with a dremel then the rest by hand. A few older folks told me that polishing it can cause it to retain heat? I don't know how true that is... But it looks great!

Btw- I believe a member on here did his whole hood! It came out like a mirror!! Really beautiful. U should check it out

4g64t_dohc

wizechef: it is true that when sanding down ANY cast aluminum manifold, it tends to hold the heat in more, the reason being is all the little ripples in the aluminum disapate the heat easier. that's why i never touched the bottom of the intake manifold, only the top and part of the sides. and as i've been sanding/blocking this valve cover, the guy i bought it from bomb canned it black over the factory paint and it's been a bi%ch trying to get all off, i put it in my sand blaster and hit one little spot just to see what it'd do and it barley made anything come off lol.
and as for the porting, i've read a bunch of stuff and talked to my machine shop and porting the intake mani and even the head only gains you 5-7hp..... doesn't sound worth it to me.

EvoFredo

iTrader: (21)

when i first wanted to paint my valve cover i used aircraft paint remover form autozone to take the paint off. Then as i started shaving it, I decided to go and fully polish it. got it pretty smooth before i gave up. and it would oxidize very easy.

4g64t_dohc

yeah i figured it'd do that. but i bet it looked pretty cool before it dulled. i was wondering if pPg or other high quality paints will still flake or peel just because of the heat or will it handle it? i mean the valve cover doesn't get too hot.

Teal2nnr

iTrader: (7)

^^ I was almost positive there was a coating you could put over aluminum to prevent it from oxydizing and it would keep its shine much longer....then again i never did look into it...so that could all be bull****.

I only polish intake piping and stuff thats easy to get at now. I've done stuff in the past similar to this (although smaller and not as hour intensive) and it just ends up getting dirty and ruins all the time you put into it (gets scratched..etc) i prefer to powder coat now lol.

tchasen916

iTrader: (1)

whoooo that is super cleann!! cant wait to see the mirror finish!!