^^^ Thanks. They never sold evos up here so finding one in a scrapyard might be hard, but we had those others.

 

got my new/used iac. Installing tomorrow so will post updates if any. I'm guessing for good measure I should reset it via evoscan?

 

I don't have/use evoscan but every time I replaced mine, I just swapped them out & smiled while my car idled like normal again...lol

It only takes a couple minutes to swap out....

GL tomorrow!

 

have you had your car tuned

 

just for the record not ALL those year 2.4L sebrings have the same IACV. I just got back from pullapart and there was an 04 sebring with the 2.4L and the valve was no where near close, it only had one screw in it and was cicular where ours looks kinda triangleish... just some info. I did google it and 2 diff pictures come up, the right one and the wrong one... idk y??

 

My evo is in storage, I changed the TB shaft seals and let it idle for 20 minutes in my garage, and it never started to dip.

Changing the seals takes maybe 1-2 hours with removal/install, and I recommend it if you've never done them before. Chances are they're finished anyways.

 

I was thinking the BISS or the TPS on this one. I'm leaning more towards the BISS because it sounds like the BISS isn't set right and it's allowing the TB plate to close more than it needs to be for an idle. If you've replaced your IAC, the only other thing that comes to my mind is the TPS, it may have a dead spot on it. Not real sure though.

 

The BISS doesn't prevent the TB plate from closing, it's a separate air passage that allows air to enter the engine even if the TB is closed.

 

installed the new iac. Will be driving it this week to see if that solved the issue.

Didn't reset the battery yet, since when I do it usually drives fine for a few days. I wanna see if this really makes a difference or not. Will update any changes.

 

STM sells everything OEM, even little clips. You can get just the IAC gasket/o ring there if needed. Problem fixed yet?

 

Inquiring minds want to know...

I have a similar issue except no stall out yet, just a couple of idle dips at stop lights. Pulled the IAC a few days ago and it looks great with just a touch of carbon dust on it. Carb cleaned all I could with a tooth brush and reinstalled it. Car ran for two days with NO Idle Dips at all, thought it was fixed but then they came back!?!? Guess I should ohm out the contacts before just buy'n a new one....

 

sorry guys. An update. NO ISSUES SO FAR

Idle was high for a few days. around 1.3-1.4. Seems to have settled down to the 1.1 I have it set for. Think I changed that when my car was acting up. A as reminder, I did NOT reset my battery. I wanted to see if this was really the issue.

My old IAC was dirty as hell. The new/used one looked a little different but everything seems to be working fine.

I've been nervous to update because usaully it will work fine for a few days then crap out. So far so good. Going on the 5th day and no issues. It's been warm, and its been really cold. So it looks solid.

Will continue to update with any changes and also add some pics.

 

There was 2 different style IAC's, 9's and some 04's had the different style. Both take two different gaskets so people need to be sure they are using the correct one. A boost leak will cause rough idle also.

When you first put it in it will idle weird for a second, that's the car like "oh man here we go with the idle surge again...wait a minute...Niceeee"

 

Excellent. I just looked at their site, and found it. I never noticed they had an OEM section.

Here's the o-ring, if anyone else is looking for it :

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...ller_oring.htm

 

Yea man, STM has EVERYTHING OEM. Tell your friends! Skip the dealer, they literally have the most random things ever in stock ready to be shipped out. Gas door popper clip? Done. That IAC O-ring? Done. Fortune cookie? Done