They are great, pricey but worth it. The rubber pads pivot I bought two at a time cause there expensive....

 

Anyone else have some ideas on a good spot to put the jackstands

 

Let me just give you some general information.
When the vehicle is at the factory just about every vehicle.... are normally supported by the 4- pinch weld jack points, either from a hanging hoist, or rolling rack. These are primary area for supporting the vehicle. Its wise to use something that distributes the load along the jack point to prevent them from bending..

Other than that, other places are the subframes, these are the strongest part of the body structure since the car literally sits on these bolting points. These are normally the points you use if you make cart to roll the white body on when the entire chassis isn't connected.

Other than these points, there isn't anything else which you can locate a jack on.
I have in the past supported by the suspension arm bushing area, but you are going to constantly crush that bushing, I wouldn't do that for an extended period of time.

 

Now this is an area I have a bit too much experience in!

I found on hot days the pinch rails will bend if you're not super careful and those "frame rails" that really support the floorpans only also bend (in epic fashion). Never use those frame rails! I got used to working on my car in the winter so it really didn't matter where I put my jack or my jackstand nothing ever bent. Then the summer rolled around with hot track days and I've bent: 1) the "frame rails" I mentioned earlier, 2) the pinch rail....they're flat in my favourite spot on the driver's side (lifts front and rear wheels at the same time), and those damn skid things. Although the skids only bent after I left my car up on jackstands overnight on them. But still.....it required a sledge hammer to fix.

Safest way to lift the car is by the LCA (use hockey puck) or rear diff. I don't even use the front cross member, I like many others have tried to jack further back than from the jacking point so I could get more elevation / clear my FMIC, but it resulted in me bending that too (more sledge hammering). When my car was too low though I jacked from the pinch rail with a hockey puck for protection. The whole problem was as the jack lifted the car the pinch rail rotated on the metal jackpad and squashed flat. The hockey puck prevents that.

As for jack stand placement I always put it at the designated jacking points on the pinch rail, no hockey puck or anything. Metal on metal. Those things will probably not bend under any condition (thought I'm not gonna test it) and I don't feel very safe wrestling underneath the car with bolts or whatever with the jack anywhere else. Yea you could get some more elevation with the jack stand on the crossmember or the rear skids but I can easily see (and have seen) the jack stand saddle sliding on that.

 

there called pinch welds. thats where i put mine its fine to put them there u can honestly put them in bunch of spots but i find it easiest here to put them

 

pinch welds, jack it up from the tow hook, put jack stands on the pinch welds on both sides, its the 3/8" thick blade that runs along the side of the car behind the side skirt. u cant miss it.

 

THANKS FOR ALL THE RESPONSES GUYS ! I'm asking because I might need to replace a seal in my tcase and I want to have it high on jackstands so I can have room to work but I just want to make sure I'm putting the jack stands in the safest place possible.

 

This guys good

 

Realized that after posting, but thanks for making me feel stupid

 

^^^lol...well i think i will just stick to the pinch welds based off of everyones info