My timing belt snapped when i was driving my Evo.
Oh i see what you want...
To the OP, when your timing belt snaps on your car you will not have to replace anything at all on an interference motor. You will not have to replace pistons, valves, ect on your motor. You have that one special motor mitsubishi built. Feel lucky
To the OP, when your timing belt snaps on your car you will not have to replace anything at all on an interference motor. You will not have to replace pistons, valves, ect on your motor. You have that one special motor mitsubishi built. Feel lucky
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 326
Likes: 1
From: Spartanburg, South Carolina
I'm not saying you're incompetent man. Calm down, jeez.
First off I would have never cheaped out and put a timing belt that had been used back onto my motor. Almost like putting a clutch in and not changing your rear main seal then it starts leaking, and you wonder why

Now I am unaware if you pulled the timing belt off of your motor or not, your first post made it seem like you had the belt off and put it back on. Even though you did not state it.
That's why I asked what I asked.
Worse case scenario, you need a new topend. You're valves are definitely wiped out, not a mater of if they are, just a matter of how many. Probably got the guides as well. And you may have gotten lucky with the pistons, just pull it apart when you get back in the US and check out the damage.
Stay safe overseas, and I wasn't trying to say you're incompetent litte more info goes a long ways.
Just a good excuse to get a BR stage 3 head
I'm not saying you're incompetent man. Calm down, jeez.
First off I would have never cheaped out and put a timing belt that had been used back onto my motor. Almost like putting a clutch in and not changing your rear main seal then it starts leaking, and you wonder why
Now I am unaware if you pulled the timing belt off of your motor or not, your first post made it seem like you had the belt off and put it back on. Even though you did not state it.
That's why I asked what I asked.
Worse case scenario, you need a new topend. You're valves are definitely wiped out, not a mater of if they are, just a matter of how many. Probably got the guides as well. And you may have gotten lucky with the pistons, just pull it apart when you get back in the US and check out the damage.
Stay safe overseas, and I wasn't trying to say you're incompetent litte more info goes a long ways.
Just a good excuse to get a BR stage 3 head
First off I would have never cheaped out and put a timing belt that had been used back onto my motor. Almost like putting a clutch in and not changing your rear main seal then it starts leaking, and you wonder why

Now I am unaware if you pulled the timing belt off of your motor or not, your first post made it seem like you had the belt off and put it back on. Even though you did not state it.
That's why I asked what I asked.
Worse case scenario, you need a new topend. You're valves are definitely wiped out, not a mater of if they are, just a matter of how many. Probably got the guides as well. And you may have gotten lucky with the pistons, just pull it apart when you get back in the US and check out the damage.
Stay safe overseas, and I wasn't trying to say you're incompetent litte more info goes a long ways.
Just a good excuse to get a BR stage 3 head

Sorry for getting all bent bro. i really miss not being able to drive my car around. Your right i meant to say i did a complete motor swap and put the gates 311 timing belt with tensioner on.
do you know how much the BR stage 3 costs.? I was inline the other day but, it didnt include the price with springs, retainers, guides and seats.. I have priced most out and came up with 2200-2600. I have money, im just going thru some things in my life.
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 326
Likes: 1
From: Spartanburg, South Carolina
Sorry for getting all bent bro. i really miss not being able to drive my car around. Your right i meant to say i did a complete motor swap and put the gates 311 timing belt with tensioner on.
do you know how much the BR stage 3 costs.? I was inline the other day but, it didnt include the price with springs, retainers, guides and seats.. I have priced most out and came up with 2200-2600. I have money, im just going thru some things in my life.
do you know how much the BR stage 3 costs.? I was inline the other day but, it didnt include the price with springs, retainers, guides and seats.. I have priced most out and came up with 2200-2600. I have money, im just going thru some things in my life.
When you pull the head to fix it, go ahead and buy the stuff to do the full t-belt job, and maybe a headset? Definitely a perfect opportunity to go to a great headgasket (Cometic?) and some ARP headstuds while the head is off.
Mitsubishiparts.net sells a 60k tune up kit. It's got all your idler pullies, and your tensioner, waterpump, and belts. You have the option of choosing the OEM belt or the Gates belt like you had. No sense in pulling all that and not putting it back with all OEM parts
Especially the water pump and idlers. http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/catalog/?section=720
Inspect the cam gears, crank & oil pump gears too. If you said your teeth were sheared off, maybe one of those teeth on the gears were mucked up or something?
There are definitely ways to get around paying that much for a head man. If your's isn't killed just take it to a reputable machine shop when you get back in the states, and get it pressure checked and surfaced (and have your valve guides installed if needed or wanted.) If they are able to do great port work then get them to work the head?
Then start buying your valves/springs/retainers and then you put it back together when they are done, or get them to put it together if you don't want to mess with it.
Stay safe.
It's all good man.
When you pull the head to fix it, go ahead and buy the stuff to do the full t-belt job, and maybe a headset? Definitely a perfect opportunity to go to a great headgasket (Cometic?) and some ARP headstuds while the head is off.
Mitsubishiparts.net sells a 60k tune up kit. It's got all your idler pullies, and your tensioner, waterpump, and belts. You have the option of choosing the OEM belt or the Gates belt like you had. No sense in pulling all that and not putting it back with all OEM parts
Especially the water pump and idlers.
http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/catalog/?section=720
Inspect the cam gears, crank & oil pump gears too. If you said your teeth were sheared off, maybe one of those teeth on the gears were mucked up or something?
There are definitely ways to get around paying that much for a head man. If your's isn't killed just take it to a reputable machine shop when you get back in the states, and get it pressure checked and surfaced (and have your valve guides installed if needed or wanted.) If they are able to do great port work then get them to work the head?
Then start buying your valves/springs/retainers and then you put it back together when they are done, or get them to put it together if you don't want to mess with it.
Stay safe.
When you pull the head to fix it, go ahead and buy the stuff to do the full t-belt job, and maybe a headset? Definitely a perfect opportunity to go to a great headgasket (Cometic?) and some ARP headstuds while the head is off.
Mitsubishiparts.net sells a 60k tune up kit. It's got all your idler pullies, and your tensioner, waterpump, and belts. You have the option of choosing the OEM belt or the Gates belt like you had. No sense in pulling all that and not putting it back with all OEM parts
Especially the water pump and idlers. http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/catalog/?section=720
Inspect the cam gears, crank & oil pump gears too. If you said your teeth were sheared off, maybe one of those teeth on the gears were mucked up or something?
There are definitely ways to get around paying that much for a head man. If your's isn't killed just take it to a reputable machine shop when you get back in the states, and get it pressure checked and surfaced (and have your valve guides installed if needed or wanted.) If they are able to do great port work then get them to work the head?
Then start buying your valves/springs/retainers and then you put it back together when they are done, or get them to put it together if you don't want to mess with it.
Stay safe.

Thanks for the info and your right i think i might know a shop that does head work. I just hope its only the head that need to be done. I think im looking at 1900 for head work and valve job. I can replace the water pump and anything else on my own.
thanks for the info. i will keep you updated on how it goes.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
warstang27
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
6
Nov 3, 2015 10:30 AM











