How the hell is this thread two pages?

 

Mobil 1 is not a superior oil to Castrol Edge. Get over it.
Oil Changes does only take 5-10 minutes unless you're laying down there playing with your d!ck. And in that case it should only take you 5m20sec - 10m20sec.
If you want records than keep the receipt of all of your oil change related purchases and document the dates every time you do the deed.

 

No playing around with my d1ck. Jack up the car, put oil pan, etc and I wait untill it drops very slowly. Yes takes more than 10 mins on all my previous car.

 

You do know that no matter how much it drains out of your drain plug, there is still old oil in your engine right? Waiting for it to just drop very slowly is just killing time. When it starts dripping, you can plug it up and refill with new oil.

 

Yes i know.

 

I promise you its guaranteed by the aspect its the only oil the OE is going to use during development.... it has nothing to do with 'marketing' by brand so to speak to make money, but certainly there is some aggreement to use certain suppliers for oil for simplicity of the maker. For instance, if I'm an OEM I dont want to deal with 6 different oil suppliers... its too much hassle.

Keep in mind oil is very much like brake fluid in the sense they are not created equal.... they may achieve the same DOT standard by the standard itself or oil by weight characteristic but it does not mean they are the same, composition of the material itself are different even though similar.

Here is some perspective:
You may think because your car says DOT 3 or 4 that its ok to use what ever brand you want and certainly shouldn't be DOT5.1 in there. same as keeping 10w30 wt opposed to 10w40.... but its not always true, these are not super specific standards they are more generic than you'd think.
Case in point, Toyota had a recall ~1yr ago for brake Master Cylinder leakage problems. Issue was using different types of off the shelf brake fluid instead of the manufuactures genuine fluid.... the reason why or what the problem was is something that I actually can not make public, but it shows that even though the fluid achieves the same DOT standard there are technical issues that the common person doesn't not even understand... and the dude working at the dealer.
Anothe case in point: ATE superblue brake fluid is corrosive to many seals in Continental products on VW's.. over time it eats these seals and causes leaks... but again, has the same DOT standard.

I'm not saying that oil is exactly the same concern for brake fluid, but it gives you the perspective of ignorance is not always correct just because you use different off the self brake fluid and never had a problem. I bet many ppl thought the similar condition when they started putting different diff fluids in their TC's too... until they started to blow. Now the community knows use ONLY MITS DIAQUEEN or Amsoil fluid otherwise there is no guarantee your TC/diff will last.
Most likely there is a very specific technical reason for this under very specific circumstances.. much like what engine oil you should use because under certain durability conditions it out performs another leading brand of oil....

This is what I mean by its guaranteed by the OEM, tested and passed all development requirements by the OE.
that all being said I bet you would of been fine with Castrol

 

Oil change on a Evo 4G is eeeeeasy
Man.

Tools:
17mm socket
Ratchet
Oil pan
Strong hand

And most importantly. Amsoil

Mitsubishi oem filter.

Just put the oil pan under the cars pan which is right next to the passenger tire. Unbolt the drain plug with the 17mm socket and let it drain for about 5-7mins. Then loosen the oil filter (right next to the passenger tire) and replace it with the new one making sure to lube the rubber ring around the new filter with oil and tighten it back on but no so tight you need chuck Norris to get it off. Put the plug back in fairly tight and refill with 5 quarts of you oil. Run it for about 3-5 mins to make sure no leakage and you're good to go!

Also to make the flow a bit quicker, run the car up to operating temp so that the oil drains faster.

This might cost you a total of $60 tops depending on who you buy the oil and filter from... Assuming you have the tools, I always carry 2 sets of tools in all my cars.

 

Please, enlighten us on why the OP needs to run Amsoil .

 

You really don't have to do amsoil, most folks with bb turbos do it. Mobil 1 is good no doubt.... I use it in all my cars except for the Evo. Ive honestly seen small improvements with using it, but improvements none the less. If you want records for yourself... Just buy one of those $20 label printers and log the date of the change and the miles it was changed at.

 

If newbie reading your post, they will believe MOBIL is best out there.

If it wasn't for marketing or making money, i wonder why mitsu put mobil logo on our oil cap? Why mitsu choose mobil instead of others? Mobil 10w30 must have something WAY better than others.

There is nothing wrong with keeping what OEM recommand, and also there are nothing wrong with using other motor oil.

Since you said about toyota, I have a toyota camry and toyota recommand their toyo syn for new motors. Which it proved one of best motor oil. Non of my local dealer using toyota oil, unless you order them.

Anyway there are plenty never ending arguement about oil vs oil, so i'm pretty much done here. BTW i have amsoil in my motor.

 

Now this thread is about DIY?

 

i honestly dont get why people dont change their own oil, seriously.

Most mitsu motors are stupid easy. 4G/6G etc...

 

i love you. True Story being told.

 

Yeah probably.... normally there is always a better product than OE and that mostly has to do with cost, OEM always have to balance performance with cost and the best products cost more money. The oil logo is on the cap because it makes it hard to forget what to put in the engine because its recommended

Its just never the wrong direction to use what is recommended... ever... unless there's a recall

 

do it urself. .and amsoil FTW!