Jacking points on Evo VII
#1
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Jacking points on Evo VII
Hi guys, loooooooong time lurker, first time poster.
Trust me when I say I have searched high and low for an answer to this.
I have an Evo VII, and I am trying to jack my car up so I can take the wheels off and re-spray my callipers. Foolishly, to date (thank god for having a good quality jack) I haven't used stands for any of my underbody work (limited though it may be.)
I recently bought the stands pictured in the attachment. The style was the only style available (the sort of v/u part where stand meets car).
I dont know where to put them on my car as the recommended jacking points for stands according to the workshop manual is where the welded sill is along the side skirts (the blue scribble in the second picture). Should I be using the red circled area?
Please help, I'm wracking my brain and I've been searching the net for hours.
thanks guys.
Trust me when I say I have searched high and low for an answer to this.
I have an Evo VII, and I am trying to jack my car up so I can take the wheels off and re-spray my callipers. Foolishly, to date (thank god for having a good quality jack) I haven't used stands for any of my underbody work (limited though it may be.)
I recently bought the stands pictured in the attachment. The style was the only style available (the sort of v/u part where stand meets car).
I dont know where to put them on my car as the recommended jacking points for stands according to the workshop manual is where the welded sill is along the side skirts (the blue scribble in the second picture). Should I be using the red circled area?
Please help, I'm wracking my brain and I've been searching the net for hours.
thanks guys.
#4
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i still don't trust pinch welds, everywhere says something different about jack stands on them
you'd think if you were meant to put stands there, someone would make a jack stand with a channel in it like it should be (3" long piece, .5" wide channel, ~1" deep)
i put stands under the large rails up front where they double over (there's a bolt), and under the forward portion of the rear LCA's where they bolt to the chassis
you'd think if you were meant to put stands there, someone would make a jack stand with a channel in it like it should be (3" long piece, .5" wide channel, ~1" deep)
i put stands under the large rails up front where they double over (there's a bolt), and under the forward portion of the rear LCA's where they bolt to the chassis
#7
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can't wait till this is another dead thread that Google spits out on the subject of the very first step of modding the most moddable car
all the tuner bros tend to keep quiet about this, probably because some minor damage is inevitable
sorry just frustrated that I'm wasting time and money on the very basics
all the tuner bros tend to keep quiet about this, probably because some minor damage is inevitable
sorry just frustrated that I'm wasting time and money on the very basics
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#8
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[quote=llDemonll;10208929
i put stands under the large rails up front where they double over (there's a bolt), and under the forward portion of the rear LCA's where they bolt to the chassis[/quote]
^^^ That ! Also, I will jack the front right on the front subframe where the control arm mounts, its beefy and allows the clearance the place the jackstands under the heavy chassis rails.. Some jacks might not get under far enough...
For doing just rim swaps or something that requires front and rear tire removal, You can position the jack under the heavier chassis rail further back and jack the complete side of the car Nascar style and if you position the jack just right.. you can get 3 wheels off the ground in one shot..
i put stands under the large rails up front where they double over (there's a bolt), and under the forward portion of the rear LCA's where they bolt to the chassis[/quote]
^^^ That ! Also, I will jack the front right on the front subframe where the control arm mounts, its beefy and allows the clearance the place the jackstands under the heavy chassis rails.. Some jacks might not get under far enough...
For doing just rim swaps or something that requires front and rear tire removal, You can position the jack under the heavier chassis rail further back and jack the complete side of the car Nascar style and if you position the jack just right.. you can get 3 wheels off the ground in one shot..
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#10
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First of all just wanted to say thanks for everyone's help. I'll check out that guide an see what I come up with!
*edit* I checked out the tutorial and I can see where the stands were put but aren't those the stands that accomodate for pinch welds? I don't have that. did I wasted $90 on my stands?
*edit* I checked out the tutorial and I can see where the stands were put but aren't those the stands that accomodate for pinch welds? I don't have that. did I wasted $90 on my stands?
Last edited by evoVIImoneypit; Jun 7, 2012 at 03:49 PM.
#11
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^^^ That ! Also, I will jack the front right on the front subframe where the control arm mounts, its beefy and allows the clearance the place the jackstands under the heavy chassis rails.. Some jacks might not get under far enough...
For doing just rim swaps or something that requires front and rear tire removal, You can position the jack under the heavier chassis rail further back and jack the complete side of the car Nascar style and if you position the jack just right.. you can get 3 wheels off the ground in one shot..
For doing just rim swaps or something that requires front and rear tire removal, You can position the jack under the heavier chassis rail further back and jack the complete side of the car Nascar style and if you position the jack just right.. you can get 3 wheels off the ground in one shot..
Jack from the front point just behind the tow hook (little flat place) and from the bottom of the rear diff (both of these locations can be seen above and are self-explanatory). Don't jack from the pinch welds unless you have a pinch weld jack or an adapter
These are where I place stands: (i've since graduated from cardboard pads to much more durable rubber ones. use something, cardboard at least, metal to metal will wear the weatherproofing off the car)
Front:
Rear:
Those big orange jack stands are the "correct" ones for pinch welds, but as you can see they touch the chassis about 2" away from the pinch weld, something i'm not comfortable with. I'd rather the pinch weld supported the weight in a device like this: http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...ldadapter2.jpg
Last edited by llDemonll; Jun 7, 2012 at 04:04 PM.
#13
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I would not do this. those are not frame rails like they look and i don't believe are designed to hold that much weight
Jack from the front point just behind the tow hook (little flat place) and from the bottom of the rear diff (both of these locations can be seen above and are self-explanatory). Don't jack from the pinch welds unless you have a pinch weld jack or an adapter
These are where I place stands: (i've since graduated from cardboard pads to much more durable rubber ones. use something, cardboard at least, metal to metal will wear the weatherproofing off the car)
Front:
Rear:
Those big orange jack stands are the "correct" ones for pinch welds, but as you can see they touch the chassis about 2" away from the pinch weld, something i'm not comfortable with. I'd rather the pinch weld supported the weight in a device like this: http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...ldadapter2.jpg
Jack from the front point just behind the tow hook (little flat place) and from the bottom of the rear diff (both of these locations can be seen above and are self-explanatory). Don't jack from the pinch welds unless you have a pinch weld jack or an adapter
These are where I place stands: (i've since graduated from cardboard pads to much more durable rubber ones. use something, cardboard at least, metal to metal will wear the weatherproofing off the car)
Front:
Rear:
Those big orange jack stands are the "correct" ones for pinch welds, but as you can see they touch the chassis about 2" away from the pinch weld, something i'm not comfortable with. I'd rather the pinch weld supported the weight in a device like this: http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...ldadapter2.jpg
#15
Evolving Member
Hey
I've got the same jackstands as you (supercheap, i only paid $19 per pair on special ) For the rear I just place the stand under the rear control arm where it meets the chassis, the bow section of the stand cradels the section perfectly. The front is a bit more difficult. I was jacking from the rear front chassis brace attachment point ( with the brace removed) and putting the jackstand under the front one ( on the bolt itself). This works fine but when I went to remove the front brace I had to file the bolt heads as I had burred them a bit. I was thinking of making a hardwood block up with a groove to go over the frame rail bit so it doesn't bend ( hocking puck style?). Don't think there is a perfect answer to this question.
I've got the same jackstands as you (supercheap, i only paid $19 per pair on special ) For the rear I just place the stand under the rear control arm where it meets the chassis, the bow section of the stand cradels the section perfectly. The front is a bit more difficult. I was jacking from the rear front chassis brace attachment point ( with the brace removed) and putting the jackstand under the front one ( on the bolt itself). This works fine but when I went to remove the front brace I had to file the bolt heads as I had burred them a bit. I was thinking of making a hardwood block up with a groove to go over the frame rail bit so it doesn't bend ( hocking puck style?). Don't think there is a perfect answer to this question.