I am about to buy brand new piston ring for my evo 8

I have 180 / 180 / 180 / 150 compression

I wont pull the head and i will do this by the bottom.. Engine still in car

In the same time, ill change the 4 rod bearing, just because.. I have no rod knock so, i am 100% the crank is fine

Can i do a good job just by honing the cylinder and put in the same piston assuming the piston is still in the tolerance and the wall are in good shape?

I know its not the right way of doing it, but the rest of the engine is in good shape so why not giving a try huh

Also what the stock ring gap for this engine ?


Between i will change all ring, even if the other are fine, it wont take much more time put new ring on the 3 other
Thanks

 

How are you planning on sliding the pistons in from the bottom? Which piston ring compressor are you using that will fit the engine from the bottom??

I don't know the stock ring gap. All aftermarket rings that I have used come with a gap chart.

 

Well i am pretty sure there enought room for the piston if you move the crank, ive done it before on bigger motor,

I

Also putting a piston without compressor ring is doable just need to be carefull

Its not like i am rebuilding a cummins where the piston ring are like 1/3 of my finger lol

 

Just out of curiosity, how do you know its rings and not in the head?

Wet compression went up a lot??

Anyway, I would say do it right and pull the head. These cars tend to taper and even oval the cylinders and to hone correctly we recommend a torque plate.

 

Wet = 190 ..

 

If i remove the head, better putting new piston and rod, but the engine wont be balanced with the crank, even if i make the weight of all rod and piston the same,
that why i just wanted to put ring, fast and you dont need to remove everything.. !

The car is stock and its my daily drive, I dont run it hard, shift at 4-5k on top

 

Again. I would balance all assemblies within the gram.

Your not doing any balancing and blueprinting on an engine with balance shafts anyway.

 

Re balance everything just by changing the piston ring and rod bearing ? That a bit rude i think

 

In my opinion, it's too big of a gamble, scoring your crank will be super easy, and I don't think on a evo you can fit your piston connected to the rod between the crank and block and if you hit the crank with your connecting rod (any part that is not supposed to touch it, then you'll have to polish that). Please post pics and results if you end up doing it that way.

 

Listen up, i have another 2l motor lying around my house, its not a 4g63 but the size of the engine is pretty similar

Ill show you picture that you can remove piston with rod from the bottom

 

Your not doing it justice if your doing open heart surgery and not taking your time. it might be overkill, but since you have them out might as well. But it's your car, do what you like.

Also, honing the cylinder without removing the head, you wouldn't get the entire cylinder wall honed correctly

 

I have my current 2.4 that I just picked up on a stand. It is tight in there..
Might be just me. I heard of people saying that they would do it and I really would love to see it done.

 

If the cylinder are still cross hatched dont see why i would need to hone it,

Infact, im sure using a drill with honing stone will do the trick,

And for contamination, 2-3 oil flush will doo the trick,

 

I will give you $1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 and a mansion if you can remove the piston and rod from the bottom without removing the crank.
But seriously, there is no room to work and no room to pull the piston.



And what are you trying to accomplish by keeping the head on? It would be THAT much easier to remove the head, drop the oil pan, and slide the piston/rod up.

But what if I remove the crank you say?
.... So you want to remove all this?


Let's not forget about the rear seal on the flywheel side too. Which means you would have to remove the clutch. Which also means you would have to drop the trans. Which also means you would need an engine hoist just to hold up the motor since you'll only be on just ONE motor mount. Which also means you'll have very limited space to work in while removing those gears, idle bearings, etc.

If you're willing to do ALL THAT just because you don't want to remove the head, don't listen to us and go for it.

 

I wasn't in the position of being able to take photos (at work, away from engine), but this is the way I was seeing it, no room.

I disassembled my 2.4 and remembered there was NO room to get the pistons out from the bottom. Thanks for the photos.