You may want to look into this in more detail. Cams on a IX don't produce the same results as cams on a VIII. You'll be breaking a factory seal and for what?

 

You do not need UICP and Intake until you upgrade your turbo. Stock piping is fine as long as the clamps are holding. Less than 5hp gains with the extra $300 you'll spend.

Have an allowance for clutch just in case it craps on you. If you do cams, do valves/springs as well. Id keep stock cams and rock the basic bolt ons. 300whp is a fun car and very reliable. Cams make your car a completely different animal.

Cheers!

 

I'm sure it will also give prospective buyers warm and fuzzys when you're ready to sell the car too. Don't know about you, but a modified engine doesn't exactly seem appealing to me.

 

Ok thanks so much for all these pointers guys. Obviously I am pretty new to the Evo scene, so the past 3-4 weeks I've been a member here I've been trying to cram all this good info in my brain lol.

I still have a few more months before I start to look around for the best buy I can find. Luckily there is a car lot about an hour from my house that always has 5-6 Evo's in stock. Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll have a good deal on a lower mileage IX.

EDIT: And me planning out stuff now doesn't necessarily mean it is in stone. I am just trying to get ideas to reach my ideal goal. I still haven't driven an Evo, so for all I know I may want nothing more than a TB exhaust lol. I used to drive a mid 13 second 97' GSX, so I'll want something a little bit more powerful than that. I'm 31 years old, so the days of me beating the **** out of my car from stop sign to stop sign are well behind me.

 

Use caution at dealerships. Never know who was beating on the evo for during lunch break.

 

I absolutely recommend putting money aside for a clutch. My stock clutch went out weeks after tuning the car to 330/300 on stock turbo/cams. The previous owner beat up the car street racing so I'm sure it was on its way out when I got it, but its something to be wary of. If you do put in cams, do head studs and springs/retainers at the same time. I learned this lesson the hard way by re-using OEM springs on 272 cams and am having my entire head rebuilt right now. Try to consolidate your modifications into stages so you don't have to pay for the same job twice.

 

Honestly, I would recommend a slightly different build for a DD. Plus, this will get you lots of power for cheap. And yes, I threw in E85 because you will want it soon after your first build anyways. Better to go to the tuner once

Turbo Back Exhaust
E85
ACT Clutch (or Exedy stage 2 if you can afford it)
Walbro 255 Pump
Hallman Manual Boost controller
Dual Tune on 91 Pump - 21PSI and E85 - 28PSI
1000cc injectors
Fuel Rail
Aftermarket recirculating BOV
Air Intake

That will put you at ~400whp/tq, and cost less than 3K you can get a decent price. Oh, and be totally reliable.

 

750's doing 400 awhp on E85? I wouldn't try that. My 680's are at 97% IDC at 380-ish awhp (Virtual Dyno) and that's on 93 octane. ID1000's on E85 are good to around 450 awhp, right? I have a set of FIC BM1250's coming now, those should support almost 500 awhp on E85.

Edit - just poked around on ID's website and on E85, ID1000's are good to a little under 450 flywheel hp at 8000 RPM.

 

You are right, 750s are pushing it, edited my post above for 1000cc injectors..

 

No worries, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy

And 400 awhp is p-l-e-n-t-y for a DD. That's where I want mine at, on 93, then an E85 tune around 450 awhp if I ever want to take it to the track.

 

Yeah +1 to this, after buying my car I spent about $2300 on catching up on maintenance. Tyres, brakes, 60k maint. I've had to spread it out a bit but I'm close to being caught up now.

 

I'd love to go e85, but sadly Philly doesn't really have any pumps near me. The closest one is about a 30 minute drive with no traffic, or about an hour if there is traffic. Not worth it for me lol. I'll probably just tune it for 93 octane instead since I can get that at any gas station.

 

Honestly I'm relatively new to the car as well. Buy the car first and have some money set to the side. These cars are pretty expensive and love to eat at your wallet. Have some money on the side because honestly what happened to me was I bought the car and the clutch went out a few months ago, I never launched the car at all. It went within the first 2,000 miles of me owning the car. Personally before you get into doing mods make sure everything on the car is perfect because maintenance ALWAYS triumphs over mods.

 

1. The "knuckle heads" wasn't directed at you. You must have posted before my post.

2. My power? 365/375. My Mods?
Cams
O2 housing
S2 intake mani/ fuel rail
GReddy Comp TiC
AGP I/C and LICP
AEM intake
ID1000s (so i can go E85)

So, without sound like a dick in a pissing match...i have enough mods and power to comment. And at 70k with all my track days/autocrosses, I don't even think about my clutch. Maybe when i go E85 ill change my tune. What i DIDN'T compensate for, is the fact that i've had my car since day 1, which will not be the case for the OP.

 

I'm not quite sure why anyone would discourage you from upgrading the stock clutch, since it slips under stock power. If you're adding stuff it only makes sense to replace or expect to replace. If you're not the original owner then you have no idea what the condition of the disk is until it's already too late.