Hey all. I am going to be purchasing my first Evo right after xmas, and I've been toying around with a build list of the upgrades I plan on doing. First things first I will be doing all of the maintenance stuff first like timing belt, all fluids, filters, etc.

I've pretty much zeroed in on an Evo IX since I just love that body style, and they are typically priced around where my budget is. Anyways here is the list of stuff I have figured out, but I am just not sure if they'll be too much for a DD (mostly the cam).

Turbo back exhaust (Something quiet and non ricey)
Tein Coilovers w/camber kit
Lower IC Pipe
New shifter bushings
Crower stage 1 264/264 cams
FIC 1050 injectors (Too big of size is ok right? Since the car will be tuned?)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
K&N Filter

After a tune, maintence, and these upgrades I feel that I'll have my Evo exactly where I want it power wise. I assume those cams will be fine with a stock cylinder head right? They would just bolt right in correct? No mods needed?

 

Save yourself 400 bux and leave out the injectors. IXs can go pretty far on stock injectors and walbro. I have all that plus some and the only reason i got injectors was for when i go E85

 

Yeah I wasn't sure exactly how fuel hungry Evo's are. I come from the DSM world and stock injectors in a 2g dsm don't leave you with a whole lot of upgrade room lol.

What about the stock clutch? Don't get me wrong... I won't be launching at all. If anything I will be taking the car down to Cecil County, MD once just to get it timed in the 1/4 mile after I finish the upgrades. After that I will almost never beat on the car.

 

First in foremost good luck with purchasing your first Evo.

Now, not to be a jerk at all but I will give you some insight into the harsh reality of owning an Evo which is this. Be prepared to spend a lot of money, much more than what you are thinking with what you initially posted.

The mods that you plan on doing are great, one of the most expensive things that you aren't thinking about is the clutch, so, definitely plan to buy one Exedy Twin HD is perfect and will handle the power no problem.

I say to add this right off the rip or at least have the funds set aside to do so when the clutch you have installed fails because with the mild mod list you are going after it will toast a stock clutch in no time flat, ask me how I know... I got a tune and within 4-5 weeks my clutch was doneso.

TB exhaust is a good option, way too many for me to list so Im sure you will figure that part out.

Tein coilovers are a bit extreme unless you either want to literally track the car or just love the car absolutely slammed. Something a little less subtle but ride fantastic are Swift Spec R on MR Bilsteins. Tein springs suck, not the coils, coils are over kill, the springs alone suck though.

Not only will you need the LICP, you also need to invest in the UICP and an intake. Again a million options for this, you need them both because with the new mods and a new tune you need the pipes to handle the increased psi.

Your missing adding in an MBC unless you are doing/have access to someone who can do ECU boost. If not, buy a Hallman, inexpensive and they work perfectly.

Cams are fine, yes they are direct bolt in, BUT, while you have everything opened up in the first place it makes much better sense to do ARP head studs THE PROPER WAY by removing the head and installing them and also doing your valve springs.

You have absolutely no need for injectors at this mod level, save the money and put it into the tune which will cost you about the same.

Good choice in fuel pump, I ran the same one until I went to E85, worked like a charm, cheap, and easy install.

K&N Filter is fine, do not buy the K&N Typoon intake though, Evo's don't like them. Remember, you need the UICP and typically it will come with the intake pipe so buy the K&N accordingly size wise unless the kit comes with a filter which they typically do.

Don't forget the tune, I'm sure you haven't since I already mentioned it a few times. Just don't go cheap on this, its the most important thing to get right so do it right the first time!

Last but not least, good luck with the purchase and the build, have fun and be safe.

 

My car has 70k...MULTIPLE track days and autocrosses. I commute 60 miles/day round trip....Stock clutch that still GRABS. Don't let these knuckle heads lead you to believe the clutch is crap. It wasn't designed for drag racing; so if you're not going to launch, no need to upgrade at your power level.

 

First of all this "knuckle head" had this experience first hand and when it happened I didnt have all the mods that he is looking to do.

I also didnt say the stock clutch is crap. Did it hold, yes, for how long is the question so I was simply warning him to make sure funds are set aside and that he is prepared for what I said initially is the harsh realities of owning this car and how expensive it can be.

What mods do you have done and how much power? Once my tune was done I was at 333/338 and a few weeks later that was the end of the stock clutch on my MR...

 

I ran the stock clutch at around 400/400 for many many months, on pump gas I was making around 375/355 for well over a year and a half. I launched at least 35 times in the lifetime of the clutch and autox at least 10 times. I literally beat the living crap out of the clutch and still managed to get about 55,000 miles from it including learning to drive stick shift (my 1st car). For clutch I would recommend the Comp Stage 2 or the stock one.

OP, save your money and do not buy 264/264 cams. Go ahead and get Kelford 272 or GSC S2. Save money and do not buy an UICP either, there really is no benefit to it.

 

So.. you don't have the car yet?

If you think you're going to find a COMPLETELY STOCK IX for a reasonable price and low mileage that doesn't need any maintenance... yeah...

Other than that minor detail, I agree with whoever said ditch the Teins and go for a Swift+Bilstein setup. I would also throw a ported manifold in there.

Good luck. You will need it.

edit: oh yeah. +1 for "stock clutch is fine at those power levels"

 

If you do find a stock IX - good luck - this is the basic mod path: MBC, TBE, and a tune. That's it.

 

My intentions are to buy a stock IX, but I realize the chances of that happening are very slim. I have no problem buying one with some mods, as it would probably save me some money anyways assuming they are of quality brand.

Thanks for the pointers everyone. I'll probably look at another suspension kit, drop the injectors, and grab a MBC. I guess it would be ideal to also redo the head while I am doing the cams. Makes sense.

 

The mods you do now depend on your future plans for more mods but honestly.. don't plan a damn thing until you have the title of your car in your hands..lol You don't know what your gonna end up with and your "plan" is out the window. Just concentrate on getting the car first, then plan your mod list. Good Luck!

 

bought my IX at 19K miles got tuned to 330 whp at 55K miles. Sitting at 91K miles now still on stock clutch. Do not track my car though. Tried launching it about 5 times really hard.

 

A quick note.. when you purchase the car, have 2 g set aside to get the maintenance done and few other things like tires if you need it.

Im at 78,000 on the stock clutch putting over 350 to the ground with no issue. Its how you drive it. If your a reckless youth or not that experienced with a clutch.. yea, you can toast it in no time..

 

This, and...

BE PATIENT!

There are clean cars out there, they are just hard as F* to find. Don't buy the first one you see and get it checked out by an independent shop if you can.

 

I bought mine in May with the intention of having a quick DD, just TBE, hard IC piping, MBC, and a tune.

If you have the restraint to stay at that point, you are a better man than I. Here's the thing - these cars are very capable of holding up for long periods of time at much higher power levels provided the tune is good, the parts are quality, and the driver isn't a dip****. My car is at 77k, VD reads about 380 awhp, and is still on the factory clutch and it grabs hard enough to make the rearend "thunk" on a hard shift.

With that said, I know what it's like to be eager and anxious, and start planning all this out. Rather than laying out a plan, just do your research. Do things *one at a time* and you'll be happier in the end. Unless you plan on going over 400 ft-lbs of torque which would be FP Green/Cams and then some (and bigger, of course), you can get away without a twin disk by going to the Competition stage 2 clutch. Everyone who has it raves about it.

Lastly, going with Crower 264 cams on a IX is a complete waste of money. Go up to GSC S2's, Kelford 272's, or don't do anything - the stock cams really are *that* good. I'm running an S1 intake, S2 exhaust and absolutely love the combo.

Whatever you do, if/when you get a IX, leave it alone for a few months so you get to know it inside and out - how it drives at or near stock, so you can pick out tune issues and what not as you add things one at a time. And, as everyone else said, sock some money away for maintenance items. 2k is a good place to start there if you need to do timing belt, all fluids, clutch, and maybe brakes.