Will I be content with 450 whp?
Ok.
http://www.tscomptuned.net
Tom does "remote tunes"
What you need to do is get some Tactrix Openport 1.3u 2.0 cables.
These cables plug into the OBD-2 port under your dash and whilst running Ecuflash allow you to change the tuning on your car.
What Tom does is ask you to log info about the car using this cable and a program called Evoscan (also loaded on your laptop). These logs tell Tom about timing, fuel ratio, boost (with a wideband sender), Mivec settings (on evo 9), throttle position, speed, injector duty, knock, etc.
Using this info Tom makes adjustments to your maps and has you flash the info back to the cars ECU (using Ecuflash). Tom takes logs at idle to start and then has you do 2000rpm to 7000rpm wide open throttle (wot) runs in 3rd gear, you then send this log to him, via email, he has a look, makes adjustments, and then sends you back the adjusted rom (the program that runs the car) that you flash to your car using Ecuflash.
This takes time, I had 18 roms to flash over a six weeks or so, with each one giving a bit more power. Tom looks for knock and adjusts timing and fuel to eliminate it. Hope this is an ok explanation of how it works.
You will need an Wideband A/F meter (I use a Innovate LC-1) that is able to log back to Ecuscan (via a serial cable in my case) and it's probably a good idea to get a 3 port electronic boost control solenoid like the Grimmspeed one.
A feel that this is a good way to go because all the tuning is done at home (no traveling bar your WOT runs) and Tom just keeps going till he has the car giving the most power possible whilst maintaining safety and longevity for your engine, there are no dyno enforced time limits. It all works really well and Tom can help you set up your computer and programs too. There are other vendors here that also offer this service but I used Tom because I've never heard a bad thing about what he does. Anyway if you are ever down in the Southern Highlands drop us a PM, if you like we can meet up in my local coffee shop and I can go over it with you, as long as you buy the coffee
. Cheers
http://www.tscomptuned.net
Tom does "remote tunes"
What you need to do is get some Tactrix Openport 1.3u 2.0 cables.
These cables plug into the OBD-2 port under your dash and whilst running Ecuflash allow you to change the tuning on your car.
What Tom does is ask you to log info about the car using this cable and a program called Evoscan (also loaded on your laptop). These logs tell Tom about timing, fuel ratio, boost (with a wideband sender), Mivec settings (on evo 9), throttle position, speed, injector duty, knock, etc.
Using this info Tom makes adjustments to your maps and has you flash the info back to the cars ECU (using Ecuflash). Tom takes logs at idle to start and then has you do 2000rpm to 7000rpm wide open throttle (wot) runs in 3rd gear, you then send this log to him, via email, he has a look, makes adjustments, and then sends you back the adjusted rom (the program that runs the car) that you flash to your car using Ecuflash.
This takes time, I had 18 roms to flash over a six weeks or so, with each one giving a bit more power. Tom looks for knock and adjusts timing and fuel to eliminate it. Hope this is an ok explanation of how it works.
You will need an Wideband A/F meter (I use a Innovate LC-1) that is able to log back to Ecuscan (via a serial cable in my case) and it's probably a good idea to get a 3 port electronic boost control solenoid like the Grimmspeed one.
A feel that this is a good way to go because all the tuning is done at home (no traveling bar your WOT runs) and Tom just keeps going till he has the car giving the most power possible whilst maintaining safety and longevity for your engine, there are no dyno enforced time limits. It all works really well and Tom can help you set up your computer and programs too. There are other vendors here that also offer this service but I used Tom because I've never heard a bad thing about what he does. Anyway if you are ever down in the Southern Highlands drop us a PM, if you like we can meet up in my local coffee shop and I can go over it with you, as long as you buy the coffee
. Cheers
Last edited by Fireescape; Dec 15, 2012 at 05:23 PM.
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,313
Likes: 1
From: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Read this forum. See the experiences of "seasoned" evo owners. Alot of your questions will be answered if you see what this site has to offer.
You are not to first to pose this question, and def. not the last.
You are not to first to pose this question, and def. not the last.
My green has seen 28lbs for 2 years and almost 50k miles still perfect. with that said im at about 400hp have been since i got my green completely content with it however i do want to grab some s1 or s2s an 02 dump get retuned and shoot for closer to 450 i think after that ill be done but ive never been a big turbo high hp kind of guy
one thing I've always been a fan of is cars that take some time to get into full boost, but once they do hit boost they hold you back in the seat and keep climbing all the way to redline. I really don't like my stock turbo where when you're just driving around you're pretty much already in boost and when you actually go 100% throttle it's not much of a "kick" and then it fades off at high RPM. I want something that will shine in higher RPM and pull to redline on stock block
will an EF4 get me there? How about an EF3?
will an EF4 get me there? How about an EF3?
You could run either an EF3 OR an EF4...and it really is a matter of preference. The common thought that you should run a smaller turbo for smaller power is not necessarily accurate...really that selection should be made based on desired spool characteristics. A larger turbo on lower boost will typically produce lower torque numbers and make higher HP (as HP is more RPM based)...SO that being said, making a car fast is typically about getting the car into power and keeping it there as long as possible. SO if you went EF4, I would suggest upgrading the springs and adding cams to hold that power up top longer. That way the car has some lag as it ramps of the exhaust energy to spool the turbo, THEN when the turbo hits, you can string the turbo out longer up top if you are building a car with some inherent lag in the setup.
Yeah, but how often are you really running the entire 28psi, and for what extend of time? That's the really question no one seems to consider. I don't run high boost like a lot of you guys, but I peg 25psi my old IX turbo, and now HKS turbo for 30 mins each session on track. At 6 sessions per day, that 3 hours per day. Our track weekends are typically 2-3 days. When you run a "small" turbo at overly high shaft speed, the load and pressure the components experience are exponential.
Highlighting somethings I agree with.
You could run either an EF3 OR an EF4...and it really is a matter of preference. The common thought that you should run a smaller turbo for smaller power is not necessarily accurate...really that selection should be made based on desired spool characteristics. A larger turbo on lower boost will typically produce lower torque numbers and make higher HP (as HP is more RPM based)...SO that being said, making a car fast is typically about getting the car into power and keeping it there as long as possible. SO if you went EF4, I would suggest upgrading the springs and adding cams to hold that power up top longer. That way the car has some lag as it ramps of the exhaust energy to spool the turbo, THEN when the turbo hits, you can string the turbo out longer up top if you are building a car with some inherent lag in the setup.
Last edited by chu; Dec 19, 2012 at 12:55 PM.
You could run either an EF3 OR an EF4...and it really is a matter of preference. The common thought that you should run a smaller turbo for smaller power is not necessarily accurate...really that selection should be made based on desired spool characteristics. A larger turbo on lower boost will typically produce lower torque numbers and make higher HP (as HP is more RPM based)...SO that being said, making a car fast is typically about getting the car into power and keeping it there as long as possible. SO if you went EF4, I would suggest upgrading the springs and adding cams to hold that power up top longer. That way the car has some lag as it ramps of the exhaust energy to spool the turbo, THEN when the turbo hits, you can string the turbo out longer up top if you are building a car with some inherent lag in the setup.
well my current plan (which is always flexible) is to get a stock frame turbo will all the necessary bolt-on mods plus things like ported intake manifold and TB while running 93 octane on stock block. Then when I get bored I can either add cams/springs or upgrade to E85, or both. I was trying to create a mod path that allows me to keep all the same parts and just increase power with the addition of other parts. I wanted a turbo that will be great at 400-450 as well as 450-550 hp...
My plan after some research was an EF4 with full bolt-ons and if I'm not happy at all with the power up top or I just want more power I will do 272's of some sort. If they get more E85 in my area then maybe one day I can switch to E85 after swapping fuel pumps and be set.
I've been doing tons of research the past couple of months but I still can't decide. I was at one point going to get a 6262 on stock block, but today I ordered the JDL stock frame manifold/o2 housing so I've decided to go stock-frame (EF4/Black/EF3/Red/etc...) and I hope that's the right decision
Last edited by ILuvJDM; Dec 19, 2012 at 01:05 PM.
Its like anything, you ride the pony long enough you get used to it. Thats why noone ever stops spending money to make their evo faster,lol. Its crazy that we all move in stages spending more and more money to slowly creep up to the level of power thats finailly a checkbook buster,but its the game. I personally say i would like 600 but a few months after 600 i know me....im gonna want to shoot for 700. Then im gonna have to get a prius as a daily driver to keep up with my evo habit,lol.


