where do I start...

I decided to go from a mini battery set-up to a trunk relocation.
I bought a optima yellow top / and a taylor relocation kit( 2 guage wires).

As I was tightening down the clamp bolt to hold the collar around the positive battery pole....my wrench sliped and got caught on the side of the aluminum box of the taylor kit while still attached to the positive pole bolt. it was strong, enough to melt a sm part of the box and melt a sm groove into the wrench
Sparks followed....

The car now has trouble starting, once started it stays started.
it's currently running choppy, one of the spoolin up coils has some light outer discoloration and a brown residue, again very light. as does the spark plug inside...I'll replace both. Im guessing that happened as a result of the wrench meeting the battery box and causing a surge of some sort?....

so
with the battery fully charged - used a 12v charger and set it to 2amps and allowed 8 hrs plus and the green light confirmed the full charge.
Now with the batter own it own, the car will not start,
all the lights light all the systems are working (a/c windows, lights, horn)
I turn the key and just a click(just one click)

Now, with the battery attached to the charger (which is connected to a wall outlet in my hm.) the car is slow to start.

I hear a whirrrr, whirrr, whirr sound,and then it turns over and starts and stays running.

So whats wrong?
Did the sparks do more damage then i realize? can a surge effect the starter and or the alternator?

Or did I just do something wrong?
I was having issues starting the car when I was on the mini batter, but thought the cold nor cal temps along with E85 caused the many extra times trying to start the car, was a battery issue. Which is why I decided to go to a trunk relocation set-up.
What other information do you want or need to help me fig this out.

I'd like to fix it myself......thanks for any help or suggestion you may have!

 

someone must have some sort of idea that might help me out?

 

The only idea I have is the fuse on top of the battery. Its like $5 from the dealership, but I know when I accidentally messed up some wiring it blew. Car wouldn't start. Easy fix, you could find someone with an evo and swap it out just to try wouldnt hurt.

 

I'll look at that to,morrow...keep the ideas coming.

 

Id say starter...mine was doin similar issues, hard starts became more common, click click, sometimes took a few times, sometimes 15mins....battery held 12v and 14ish with car on......that was my problem. Change it n then go from there....good luck. For reference ran the same Taylor relocation kit with an optima red top... Good luck.

 

great ideas thanks for responding

does anyone have a picture of the in-line battery cable fuse box!
I'd like to compare a good working one's picture with whats in my car.

 

Re-install the original battery with original cables and see what happens

 

^^this by tomorrow night

Ive also ordered a new in-line fuse, set of plugs and one coil.

thanks

 

Do you have the battery grounded to the car at a certain spot? Like from the negative terminal.

I practically did the same thing you did, however I had a different outcome.

The other day I installed my braille racing battery, and accidentally bumped my negative terminal to a metal portion of my air intake, sparks flew, and I melted a piece of the negative terminal, my biggest worry though was the electrical components on the air intake. I finished setting everything up and it worked fine until a few hours later i noticed my car dash lights getting dimmer. I let it run its course and things got resolved within a few mins. The dash light getting dimmer also happened to me on a road trip a few weeks back though but it was really bad and at night.

Hope everything works out man.

 

well the negitive wire in the engine bay, I've wrapped in elec. tape.
the one in the trunk, comes off the battery and down to a bolt i installed the floor, I also dremeld that area gor a better contact surface.

 

with click click on a fully charged battery I think starter is the likely cause. if you hadn't shorted it and gotten sparks during your install, and were having the results you are now, wouldn't you also think it pretty much has to be the starter?

Maybe the sparks have you looking at too many possible causes.

 

I wouldn't think it's the starter if when it's connected to the charger you do get some cranks out of the starter. Sounds like the battery is the problem, according to your first post. You may have done some internal damage when you shorted it.

Do as AJCaron12 said, this should discover the problem.

 

Not true, mine click clicked for a while n only way to start was jumpin it...op try tappin the starter with a rubber mallet see if it cranks then....it it does theres your problem.

 

Check the wiring to your starter. Make sure you have good, clean, rust free connections...

 

The starter going bad should not make a difference if the battery is connected to the charger or not. That's the part of the story that catches my interest. I'm not saying I'm right, we just need him to try a different battery to eliminate that.