Timing belt help
You didn't get it? I can see to others no problem. The car runs. It's been running in this state for awhile. So I can meet you somewhere. Don't want you to have to drive all this way.
I have a friend (with DSM cars
that lives right off I65 in Gardendale so you could meet me there if you want. Otherwise I could be in Trussville area most of this coming weekend. FYI: my screen name has a "zero" and an "o" in it.
If you have a tool that holds the cam sprockets in place (slips into the teeth between them) then no problem. But, I'm guessing most DIY don't. In that case the valve spring pressure is great on the belt and the place it slips is at the crank sprocket.
When I was doing my 60K I had the new belt marked (paint marks on the belt that had to match a paint mark on each sprocket for correct timing) and while adjusting the tension by way of the eccentric pulley I'd hear a thunk. Looking around I'd see the belt had jumped at the crank sprocket. This happened two times while I was messing with tension. If the belt and sprockets hadn't been marked I likely would have been in the same situation as the OP.
When I was doing my 60K I had the new belt marked (paint marks on the belt that had to match a paint mark on each sprocket for correct timing) and while adjusting the tension by way of the eccentric pulley I'd hear a thunk. Looking around I'd see the belt had jumped at the crank sprocket. This happened two times while I was messing with tension. If the belt and sprockets hadn't been marked I likely would have been in the same situation as the OP.
Last edited by barneyb; May 10, 2013 at 12:35 PM.
If you have a tool that holds the cam sprockets in place (slips into the teeth between them) then no problem. But, I'm guessing most DIY don't. In that case the valve spring pressure is great on the belt and the place it slips is at the crank sprocket.
When I was doing my 60K I had the new belt marked (paint marks on the belt that had to match a paint mark on each sprocket for correct timing) and while adjusting the tension by way of the eccentric pulley I'd hear a thunk. Looking around I'd see the belt had jumped at the crank sprocket. This happened two times while I was messing with tension. If the belt and sprockets hadn't been marked I likely would have been in the same situation as the OP.
When I was doing my 60K I had the new belt marked (paint marks on the belt that had to match a paint mark on each sprocket for correct timing) and while adjusting the tension by way of the eccentric pulley I'd hear a thunk. Looking around I'd see the belt had jumped at the crank sprocket. This happened two times while I was messing with tension. If the belt and sprockets hadn't been marked I likely would have been in the same situation as the OP.
I'm about to do my 60k after I get my transmission back in, and my axles rebuilt this next week.
Turn the engine until all the timing marks line up. Paint marks on each sprocket and out onto the belts. Transfer the marks to the new belts. Buy the tool I mentioned above for the cam sprockets and insert it before removing the old belt. By doing the above you should have no problem.
This is the tool set I bought for $50...it includes the tool barneyb is referring to.
Timing Belt Tool Set
Timing Belt Tool Set
ones you remove the timing belt cover, there are two nicks marked behind it,, they are super tiny and hard to see, you gotta get close to see them, and then each pully has the mark as well, so match them up and put the belt on.
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