if i cant get these to work im going that route as well. cheaper too

 

Wide band sucks as welli think. Only reason i still have it is for logging purposes through evoscan. Mine started acting up at first due to the wires i extended were not all exactly equal length. They were slightly off. Now sometimes when i turn the car off but leave it on acc sometimes the gauge will stick at what it was while the car was running and slowly go full lean. It lerally takes like 5 minutes to reach full lean like the car is still running or something. And sometimes it sticks at 14.7 and wont move at all. Sensor is brand new.

 

This is the first im hearing about this problem with the aem analog series, i own a set just havent installed them yet.

 

if i remember correctly mine would do that too on both the rsx and the evo. i think its normal actually. the uego is a good buy, when i would run my datalogging software you can view a/f in real time and it was very very close to what the ecu was reading

it would be better to save yourself the headache and sell them or trade for the aem digitals. i have never gone through so much crap just to get gauges to work properly. not worth it, and im only going to try on last thing and then quit it

 

I had trouble getting them to work right until I found a constant power source, and now they work flawlessly!

 

No air is flowing through the exhaust system so it is residual and still reading what is still left in the exhaust.

 

still need help with this

 

I just finsihed installing the wideband and the boost... Here's your problem.... The aem boost gauge and maybe the wbo2 ( no bung or sensor yet.) auto zero themselves. So if you jump in your car and just turn the key and start it super fast the gauge auto zeros at a random spot and you get random boost settings...

You can tell if your power wires are correct if you turn your key to on. Let them zero then start your car the host guage should read vac right away.. If it goes back down to 30 while your cranking you need to use fuse 1 motor fuse.

 

tried that, but the issue is, after they zero and then i turn on the car, they lose power so they rezero once the car is started and running, giving them bad readings

 

Right and what I'm saying is your pink wire needs to be hooked up to something that doesn't lose power during cranking.. Just hook the red and pink together and it will work perfect. Just wont go back to -30 when you turn off your car.

 

bad idea. constantly on, great way to drain the battery. i have more than one.

 

It's not constantly on.... Your ****s wired wrong. Read these They clearly state both ways to wire it... It's only on when your car is on.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-5132.pdf

Have a read or get dumber gauges.

 

nevermind....

 

So did u get it to work? Where they wired incorrectly?

 

i havent tried it yet, the car is in the shop right now
cant wait to get it back it will be epic