problems with aem analog gauges
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From: Euless, Texas
problems with aem analog gauges
i have been having issues with my damn gauges, obviously. the boost gauge will read incorrectly, sometimes with no throttle im getting a 0 instead of vacuum, and if i give it throttle i get a crazy boost reading, like 35 psi! the oil temp gauge is just as bad, the needle moves around, if i give the car a lot of throttle then the needle will move up or down considerably. tonight while driving, when i let off the gas the boost gauge went crazy, dropping to the 6 oclock position and the left light flashing.
sometimes the gauges read ok but these issues have been happening a lot more lately. i called aem tech support and they told me i need to wire the gauges to a better source for when the car turns on. unlike most gauges i have run into, these have two power leads. one for actual power and one for when the car is turned on so they can turn on. they need a source that doesnt lose power while the motor is cranking.
im gonna try that along with a better ground. if this doesnt work then im taking them off and selling them. something as easy as gauges should not be so much damn trouble, and these cost more than the digitals. its not really worth it.
i need to know what power source that is, that does not lose any power during the motor cranking.
any help will be greatly appreciated
sometimes the gauges read ok but these issues have been happening a lot more lately. i called aem tech support and they told me i need to wire the gauges to a better source for when the car turns on. unlike most gauges i have run into, these have two power leads. one for actual power and one for when the car is turned on so they can turn on. they need a source that doesnt lose power while the motor is cranking.
im gonna try that along with a better ground. if this doesnt work then im taking them off and selling them. something as easy as gauges should not be so much damn trouble, and these cost more than the digitals. its not really worth it.
i need to know what power source that is, that does not lose any power during the motor cranking.
any help will be greatly appreciated
Yeah definitely check to make sure your electrical connections are right. I had an issue yesterday setting up my guages wired off from my electronic boost controller. I never used the electronic boostcontroller just the connections only. Everytime I hit a bump the guages would act up. Instead of a sure connection the last owner used those ****ty splice connectors.
I hate splice connectors im a the kind of guy who just likes to expose the wire then twist the other wire around it nice and snug and electrical tape it nice and tightly that way theres no issues no movement or slack which can cause the guages to suddenly lose connection it just makes me mad.
I hate splice connectors im a the kind of guy who just likes to expose the wire then twist the other wire around it nice and snug and electrical tape it nice and tightly that way theres no issues no movement or slack which can cause the guages to suddenly lose connection it just makes me mad.
i have been having issues with my damn gauges, obviously. the boost gauge will read incorrectly, sometimes with no throttle im getting a 0 instead of vacuum, and if i give it throttle i get a crazy boost reading, like 35 psi! the oil temp gauge is just as bad, the needle moves around, if i give the car a lot of throttle then the needle will move up or down considerably. tonight while driving, when i let off the gas the boost gauge went crazy, dropping to the 6 oclock position and the left light flashing.
sometimes the gauges read ok but these issues have been happening a lot more lately. i called aem tech support and they told me i need to wire the gauges to a better source for when the car turns on. unlike most gauges i have run into, these have two power leads. one for actual power and one for when the car is turned on so they can turn on. they need a source that doesnt lose power while the motor is cranking.
im gonna try that along with a better ground. if this doesnt work then im taking them off and selling them. something as easy as gauges should not be so much damn trouble, and these cost more than the digitals. its not really worth it.
i need to know what power source that is, that does not lose any power during the motor cranking.
any help will be greatly appreciated
sometimes the gauges read ok but these issues have been happening a lot more lately. i called aem tech support and they told me i need to wire the gauges to a better source for when the car turns on. unlike most gauges i have run into, these have two power leads. one for actual power and one for when the car is turned on so they can turn on. they need a source that doesnt lose power while the motor is cranking.
im gonna try that along with a better ground. if this doesnt work then im taking them off and selling them. something as easy as gauges should not be so much damn trouble, and these cost more than the digitals. its not really worth it.
i need to know what power source that is, that does not lose any power during the motor cranking.
any help will be greatly appreciated
FWIW, I'm now running a prosport and honestly... I love it. Simple, easy, well designed, good features, cheap, and looks great.
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Evolving Member
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From: Euless, Texas
My car came with (uninstalled) boost and wideband gauges from AEM. I installed them both, the boost gauge was doing roughly the same things you're describing. AEM had me send the gauge back after a bit of quarreling (nice enough people though) and I ultimately sold that boost gauge.
FWIW, I'm now running a prosport and honestly... I love it. Simple, easy, well designed, good features, cheap, and looks great.
FWIW, I'm now running a prosport and honestly... I love it. Simple, easy, well designed, good features, cheap, and looks great.
i actually tried prosport with my rsx and they sucked for me. they would act up a lot, and after a while stopped working all together
I only run the Prosport boost. I got it about a year ago, and it's been great so far? Maybe they changed their setup?
My point though was... I too have had AEM issues. Though I'm still using their wideband.
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From: Euless, Texas
so does anyone have any recommendations for a source that i can tap, has to continue to have power while the motor is cranking, and needs to be turned off and on with the ignition, just like the cigarette lighter
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From: Euless, Texas
no, these things come with two power source wires. one has to go to a non-stop source of power, basically direct to battery. the next has to go to a source that is on when the car is on, but doesnt lose power when the engine is being cranked.
the dood at aem said something about the m.i.f. .
the dood at aem said something about the m.i.f. .
no, these things come with two power source wires. one has to go to a non-stop source of power, basically direct to battery. the next has to go to a source that is on when the car is on, but doesnt lose power when the engine is being cranked.
the dood at aem said something about the m.i.f. .
the dood at aem said something about the m.i.f. .
It keeps constant because how else would it keep time when the car is off?
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i already have a constant supply, i need a source that turns off with the ignition and turns on with it, and has power while the motor is cranking.
i dont know what MIF is, i was hoping someone could clear that up for me
i dont know what MIF is, i was hoping someone could clear that up for me
i couldnt get my AEM analog guages to work properly. 2/3 had random issues. tried re-wire, and no luck. I gave up and bought digital ones (from AEM) and they've worked flawlessly. i honestly think they just have **** analog guages and good digital ones. I was anti-digital, but i got used to it, and now like it... though i think it looks ricey at night



