did you check your intercooler pipes like everyone has suggested? if you did, I didn't see your response.

did you install the new cam sensor in or someone else?

your timing belt can be fine but it could also be your balance shaft belt. that could have let go.

I assume it cranks over but doesn't start? or does it not crank over at all?

 

I checked intercooler and pipes are good it does crank over but dosent start and I installed the sensor myself

 

I think the things we need to check next are spark on all cylinders. We also need to make sure the cams are lined up with the crank timing marks as well. Ive heard of the camshaft pickup bolt coming loose and messing up the readings. If we had a oscilloscope we could also make sure the ecu is getting the proper waveform from the sensors. It is odd that it backfires through the intake when trying to start the car. It actually sounded like ti was firing on 1 cylinder when starting as well. We will also trace the cam sensor wires back to the ecu and perform a continuity test to assure the wires are good. Does anyone know the pinout to the ecu that come from the cam sensor?

 

I just want to get this out of the way.......Why do some many people think his intercooler pipe came off???? is that the only fix that everyone knows? sorry moving alone

Well first what is the code? Was the code there before this happened? Usually when PCM stores code it's a good thing because it will guide you where to go. So you replaced the sensor because you thought it was bad ok well check with the scanner if the PCM is in sync with the crank sensor. How does the car crank really fast or slow and normal? If fast than take oil cap off and ask someone to spin the engine and see if the cams are turning. If they are turning maybe you didn't loose a belt which would be good. Check timming marks. If everything lines up than you have nothing to worry about you didn't loose and engine just yet. Check spark and while you at it compression. If you have that than its even better. Start checking the fuel system. Base pressure, injector pulse width. If all of that is good than you my man will need a PCM.

But you know what you should just check this inter cooler pipes because they can set off cam sensor codes I heard.....

 

Ok maybe I was rude am sorry. Try checking some of those things. Post info here.

 

Did you ever check the balance shaft belt?? by removing the lower cover??

I've seen one break and it bent the trigger plate and take out the crank sensor.

Other than that: you need compression. do a compression test....Let us know the results
Spark, again let us know if you get any spark.
Fuel, check injector pulse with a noid light.

 

This is exactly what happened to me. Hence my recommendation for him to check the balance shaft belt. When my balance shaft belt went, it took out the trigger plate and crank sensor...would crank over very fast as if the timing belt was off...

To the OP, let us know what you find out.

Oh, CrankWalked2G, and many of us asked him to check the intercooler pipes multiple times because he never responded to anyone's inquiry and he said he heard a 'pop' as he accelerated and then the car died...as I'm sure you are aware, this is what happens when the intercooler pipe 'pops' off.

 

Alright...

1. As others have mentioned, this really screams that a belt has broken to me, and this would be the first thing I'd check. I'm not talking about looking through the hole, I'm talking about taking the covers and the wheel off, and actually looking around to give it a thorough inspection.

2. Do you know if the vehicle has a tune on it? If that Greddy BOV is venting to the atmosphere, you're going to want to rectify that, but one thing at a time.

3. Do you know if this "some dude" fellow happened to perform the 60,000 mile service on the vehicle, or not? That will certainly play into the equation.

4. No... you're missing my point about the sensor. That code doesn't mean the sensor is "bad", it means something hasn't indicated properly. Did you actually TEST the sensor you took off, and did you test the sensor you put back on?

5. The advice about the boost leak (IC piping popping off) is good... but if you've checked that, and it's fine, it's fine. I'll caution you to investigate it maybe a bit more thoroughly, because the lower IC pipe (on my old setup) would sometimes "burp" rather than pop, and it took more investigative work than I anticipated to find the issue.

6. AFTER you've checked the condition of your belts (you should still certainly be looking for the cause of that "pop"), and you've checked the condition of BOTH of the sensors, you'll need to begin checking for air, spark, and fuel.

7. Air. There is a proper procedure outlined in one of the service manuals, but I don't have it in front of me. Start by pulling your intake plumbing off, and making sure the turbine is spinning freely, and that there isn't any FOD damage. Next you should be checking your MAF sensor for proper functionality, and then check to be sure your throttle body is functioning correctly (maybe a cable snapped? Though this wouldn't cause your issues).

8. Spark. You'll want to see if you're getting spark at your spark plugs on each cylinder. If this doesn't happen, you'll want to isolate each component working all the way back until you find the weak link.

9. Fuel. You'll need to check your fuel pump for operation (listen), and then check fuel pressure. This will also give you some other useful info for diagnosis if you desire. If you're getting good pressure, then move onto the injectors as someone else has alluded to.

Sorry for the rough explanations... that's my "on the fly" writeup.

 

Ill check all what ya all said and post as soon as I'm done have no time right now because of work thanks

 

Dustin I tried checking the voltage on the connector in pin one it does show voltage but pin three dosent show anything so not sure yo

 

I know this sounds crazy but there was a tsb out for the housing that holds the cam sensor, I was having similar problems and changed the sensor and it did no good. then after i changed the housing it started right up. Hopefully its not your belt :-( good luck.

 

So u changed te little metal peice that holds the actual sensor and started right up