hatesposers

iTrader: (4)

Alright, so like many of the rest of you, I have had an intermintant starter problem for the past year. Basically one out of every 10 or so starts, the car would not start. The car would lose interior power, but the starter would not click over. There would be a very high pitched, low volume, electrical whine (no, the starter was not spinning), and the car would not start. turn the key enough times, and eventually it would start.

So, I chased down the problem for the past 6 months.

-Replaced the battery
-had the new battery load tested by 2 shops, both competitors to where I purchased the battery. Had it static, starting and load tested. (starter was pulling the proper amperage, the battery passed all tests with flying colors)
-had my alternator tested (high amp alternator, maxed out the testing equipment)
-had the starter rebuilt. (problem seemed to go away for a little while, but then again, the weather changed as well)
-replaced the starter switch. Made sure it was adjusted properly... no difference
-replaced the starter relay.... no difference.

It was at this point that I realized, I was being a boomerang mechanic, and just throwing parts at the car and seeing what comes back. So I started to to actually work the problem.

First I tested the starter wire. I was getting nearly 13 V from that.

I jumped the solonoid from the starter wire, and got 33 starts one after another with no problems till I got bored.


Then I started checking the solenoid wire when key is to start.... 6-8V (but the car would start 9/10 times)

I then looked at the wiring diagram, and there are no resistors, or anything else in that circuit that could be causing a draw. It SHOULD be giving 12V!


I then got one, where I had someone hold the key to "start" when the car wouldn't start, and I tapped the solonoid case with a wrench, and the car started...

After another few attempts, we got the car back into a "no start" condition, and while they were holding the key to start without the solenoid kicking, I jumped the solenoid from the starter wire (giving it the full 12 it should be giving), and the car started.

So... Here's where my problem is (and maybe yours). My starter solenoid wire is only outputting 6-8 volts. Sometimes this is enough to retract the solenoid, allowing the starter to work. Other times it's not enough... makes sense that the problem sometimes seems to be temperature dependent as temperature can affect how much voltage the solenoid needs to move

What I SHOULD be doing at this point, is measuring the voltage at the relay, then the relay power wire to see what's happening to my voltage. I am assuming that there's a wire along the circuit in the harness that has deteriorated, causing high resistance. This wire should be replaced.

However, I ran out of time.... and put in place a work around.....

I wired in a 40 amp SPST relay using they factory solenoid wire as a trigger, ground to the frame, then ran a 12 source from the starter wire, and the output to the solenoid...

This way, even though there is low volts going to the relay, it sends a full 12V to the solenoid.

Since I have done this, there have been zero "no starts"

Robdeep3

iTrader: (1)

Mine is doing this more now that its warming up. I dont have any diagrams, what wire are you talking about, where is located?

hatesposers

iTrader: (4)

Not to be a ****.... but if you don't know where the starter solenoid wire is, or really what I am talking about, it's not really something you should be messing with.

Wiring diagrams are all over the net.

Robdeep3

iTrader: (1)

No it's ok, just the last car i changed a starter on was a 87 Buick Lesabre bout 17 years ago and when it stopped working you could just reach under with a screwdriver and start the car. Just been having the same issue and am not to familiar with this cars starting setup. Was simply just asking for a little advice since your problem seems all to similar to mine

hatesposers

iTrader: (4)

The starter and solenoid wires are both to the starter in the front of the car. Every car from the mid 70s on has the same layout.

Robdeep3

iTrader: (1)

All good thanks just trying to look at all the simple and cheap fixes before I start throwing parts at it like you said.

evodriver49

iTrader: (6)

omg i think this might solve my issue. my car seriously only has this problem on 85+ degree days its so annoying, 9 months outta the year no problems whatsoever except for hot days here and there, than summer time comes and ill be pushing, rocking in gear, and parking on inclines to clutch start -_-

Robdeep3

iTrader: (1)

^^^ exactly. I'm goin to dig into mine again this weekend and try this. Hopefully this will work for more of us that have this common problem, like adjusting the ignition switch works for others.

hatesposers

iTrader: (4)

Be aware people.... that if your solenoid wire is not giving out the volts/amps that are being put into it that something in the system is acting as a resister. it's absorbing the energy and transferring it to heat... This heat will continue to damage the wire, and in a WORST CASE SCENEREO will cause a wire fire.

The relay is meant to be just a temporary fix. Once I have more time, I will chase my wire from the ignition switch all the way to the solenoid to find out where my problem lies.

vmrevo9

iTrader: (33)

Old thread but have you found a fix?

hatesposers

iTrader: (4)

Yes and No, Once I used the aftermarket solnoid wired in place, I have no longer have the problem.

I am guessing somewhere in the starter circuit is a corroded wire, so there is so much resistance it's not sending full amperage to the starter solenoid. So, by placing the relay in place (which requires less amperage to trip), I am getting full power to the solenoid thus allowing my car to start.

Let me draw up a quick wiring diagram to what I did.



I would highly recommend using a waterproof (or sealed) solenoid for this, as the salt and snow out here destroyed on solenoid and I had to replace it over the winter.

vmrevo9

iTrader: (33)

Ok so just to make that the wire you are bypassing with the relay is one of the wires from the ignition harness not the 12v source straight from the battery correct?

Of so and if I remember correctly there is 2 connectors in the which one could be the cause if high resistance.

WelDun1

So I spent the last 2 weeks going through my entire Ignition/Starter system and I've pretty much solved the problem for every common scenario.

¹) If you are turning the key and you aren't hearing the starter click or w/e, the 1st place to look is the Ignition switch.
By now everyone should know the problem with our cars ignition switch is very common. So rip the steering column panels off and check the single little screw that holds the switch in place. If it's loose, that could be your problem. Tighten that irritating turd up and see if it turns over.
If not, remove the switch and see if it's worn out. Easy to determine, if the rectangular slot is worn into more of an oval shape, chances are you'll need a new one. But first, stick a screwdriver in the slot and attempt to start the car. If it starts, than the switch is your problem. I saw a post where the guy cuts a piece of tin into a long strip, folds it in half and sticks it into the slot to get rid of the slop & it seemed to work for him & it's a viable option if you're broke(if u own an Evo chances are high LoL), but if you can afford a new switch I recommend doing so!

²) if the car still doesn't start after checking out the switch, we will move on to the Starter Relay. It's the relay closest to the front in the skinny box under the hood.
You can check if the relay is good by using a 9v battery and connecting one end of the relay to the Neg— and the other end to the Pos+ and listening for the 'click' sound. If the relay is good, you should check the battery terminal connection. One of the fuses on the battery terminal goes to the starter(ACD is the other if u have ACD).
Ive seen threads dedicated to bypassing the Relay or allowing it to recieved 12v if for some reason it's not getting it. Best way to check is to use a voltmeter and check the small black wire connected to the spade on the starter. If it's getting 12V than that's not the problem. Next check the actual 12v power line to the Starter. It's the only other connection to the starter. Make sure the bolt is tight & check the voltage to it. If it's not getting 12v than there's a loose/bad connection from the starter to the fuse box. If it IS getting 12v than the next step is the Starter itself.
³) If your starter has trouble in the Cold and works better after heating up, chances are that the brushes inside are getting gummed up and need to be replaced. When it's cold like anything becomes stiffer and when it warms up becomes more pliable which explains why it'll start once warm.
You can either buy a new starter, which is going to cost you around $100-$250 & it's the best route if you can afford it. Or you can rebuild the starter for around $30-$40.
You can buy the Mitsubishi Lancer Starter Rebuild Parts here. You most likely only need the brushes but I recommend replacing the solenoid as wellBrushes pn 5503063A
Solenoid pn 66033392

So this pretty much covers every reason for the Evo not to start when we're talking Ignition/Starter issues. I hope this helps someone else figure out the problem faster than it took me. I had so much going on and so Lifetime to work on my car that I was pop starting my Evo for 2 weeks & had to leave it running LoL